20 Most Recent 2005 Chevrolet Blazer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Buy a Chilton Repair manual and learn how to repair for yourself saving a small fortune either at an auto supply house/or online or buy an new rear washer fluid tank and install it as you uninstalled the old one or take the vehicle to an authorized Chevrolet dealership for repair. The problem that I have found with taking it to the dealerships it could be something as simple as the hoses are worn out and need to be replaced which is cheap and simple but the dealerships want to replace everything involved which is costly, but if you are not mechanically inclined and do not trust what you can learn from the CHILTON'S repair manual please take it to the dealership.

it could be you got some bad gas try some STP gas treatment if the SUV runs better replace the fuel filter.

click the parking brake lever down 1 click... this will bypass the automatic drive light system..

2 bolts hold it on the the block, but check the fluid level first, could just be low or out. If you do remove it, there is a pulley on it that needs to be carefully removed with a pulley puller and put carefully (no hammer) back on to the new one....

You need to replace it. The ball inside that moves when you brake is seized holding th belt locked.

There should be a drain plug on the passenger side of the radiator. If there is no drain plug and both hoses are at the top of the radiator you can pull the lines to the transmission. Adjust the flow coming out by taking off and putting on the radiator cap. Just make sure to reconnect the lines before you refill the radiator.

CHECK YOUR THERMOSTAT

vent soleniod is not working. That activates and lets the tank vent when u turn the truck off so you can fill it. Pretty common for these vehicles

Go to AllData.Com and subscribe for your car.

You will need to have the engine's computer scanned ("have its codes read.") A shop will usually charge 1/2 hour or some nominal set fee for this service. Some parts stores will scan your vehicle for free, the idea being that they can then sell you parts based on the numbers the scanner spits out, but this is fallacious. What the computer says is just shorthand for what it thinks is the problem; the computer has often been fooled by a false reading, and the only way to avoid spending money on parts you don't need is to have the vehicle properly diagnosed.

FWIW, the engine light is like a person saying "ow," only the computer has just one volume setting and no facial expressions or other ways to communicate with the driver. If you shut it up by turning off the light, you are ignoring its pain, which is pain in your wallet. It might be minor or major pain, but by neglecting it, it always gets worse. In addition, clearing the computer's memory does you and your mechanic the disservice of clearing the computer's memory of all the other important things it needs to remember also, like how much air to give your engine so it will idle correctly and how much extra air to give it when you crank the steering wheel in a parking lot so the engine doesn't stall when your foot is off the gas. It also removes the clues that make the diagnostician's job easier and less expensive, so in the interest of not depleting your wallet, leave the light on until you can properly address the problem.

After a while, the mechanism (actuator) that unlocks and releases the rear glass hatch in your Blazer or Jimmy will eventually burn out. when it does, there is really no way to open the glass and lower the tailgate.
The only way to replace the burnt out actuator is to open the tailgate which you can't because the actuator is burnt out.

I've read stories that even the dealers don't know what to do, some have even cut up the back panel to reach the so-called manuel release. Others said they pulled back the glued on carpet to search for it also. 

Well if you don't want to hack up the tailgate panel or rip out your carpet, here's the easy way to open the glass:

You just pull back the interior tailgate panel right above the bump in the middle where the latch is. There are no screws or bolts in that area, you can safely pull it back about 2 inches. Then you'll have to stuck your finger in and push down the release bar.

When you get your finger back there, you should be able to feel for the part that need to be pushed down. When that part is pushed down, the glass has been unlocked.

When you get your finger back there, you should be able to feel for the part that need to be pushed down. When that part is pushed down, the glass has been unlocked.

Good luck and hope this helps, The actuator that needs to be replaced costs $58 from the dealer.

A little late but check your gas cap first.

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Make sure the technician scans the module for codes before replacing. If the antenna is at fault, the module will set the specific code for the antenna.
Did he explain why the module would need to be replaced?
Let me know.
Regards,

turn it a quarter turn and pull it out

Hi: Behind back of rad support and battery are 2 black plastic strips with a bend on the top of them. Pull up on them about 2 inches then take out. Tip headlight top about 1 inch forward and lift out. Replace light and reverse process.

Sounds to me like the key FOB was swinging on the key change and hitting the column. What you are describling is the door locks cycling and not staying locked because the keys are in the ignition. To see what I mean try locking the doors with the keys in the ignition, they won't stay locked till the key is removed on newer vehicles.

Hi: 4 High and 4 Low button should be flashing, If no 4 low either problem will be in the vacuum actuator located below the battery tray. 9 out of 10 times the actuator is not getting vacuum. Battery acid at some time dripped down on the actuator or vacuum lines and created a vacuum leak.

Hi: Chances are your vacuum actuator is the problem. It is located just below the battery tray. You probably will find it is not getting vacuum and thus is not engaging the front diff. The vacuum line has a hole in it, it could possibly be off by the actuator or the vacuum canister (located in the RF fender), or the actuator has a hole in the diaphragm. If the battery has ever been over charged or leaked the acid drips straight down causing the problem. Of 5 vehicles I have encountered the problem and solution has been the same, no vacuum. You could have a relay problem, (not likely) relays located by right passenger kick area,

did you try a different gas pump or station?

4wd , A/T box. brake are bad, and engine misfires.> we SCAN the PCM for P3xx or P7xx codes misfire and A/T errors (never skip this !!!) you do know any transmission brain (TCM will get confused if the engine is weak or misfires right, so engine is first to worry. but you said engine REVS (rpm up high) and car is slow and or transmission fails to up-shift, to 2nd in drive.?????? any tech in any shop sees the car, and scans it first. and see OMG dead transmission speed sensors or sees, gross misfire, or must drive it first to see what is going on. if up-shifts fail at the documented shift points the transmission is bad. or just 1 sensor on it. this is called DRIVE_ability issue that can only be solved by tech driving it and seeing it fail. not the blind, not me,but the shift points are what matters. and if the tech feels misfire or power loss even in 1st gear. he knows the engine has a problem. (or even both) 2001 is old car, most cars this old have like 10 ignored problems in the wild. classic that. or bad spark plugs and bad speed sensor both, a wild guess and common for sure. post VIN or the RPO code so we can decode drive-train there.