20 Most Recent 1984 Pontiac Firebird Questions & Answers

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DO YOU GET POWER TO THE SWITCH? AND FROM THERE TO THE MOTOR WHEN THE SWITCH IS ACTIVATED? IF THE ANSWER IS YES, TIGHTEN THE GROUND-WIRE.

The fuel pump could be bad, your fuel lines could be rotted and leaking air or your fuel pump pick=up sock could be clogged.

the choke light will come on when the choke is on i assume its electric choke if the choke is on vehicle would run poorly flood out and stall if vehicle runs fine then its in the electrics of the choke switch or a bad wire to the choke that says its on even when its not i would start there first.

I bevieve that year is 305 or 350 with Throttle body injection so remove air cleaner cover start car allow to warm up then see if plate below main injector opens when engine is revved ..if it does then be sure it is partially open at idle .. check wiring underside of air cleaner / loose / heat damaged -----Or if Aftermarket air cleaner then unplugged wires from factory must be looped to create all ok signal .....The Throttle plate at base of unit or old style carb can wear creating unstable idle or choke light signal due to inconsistant air flow ..

What is your question.

Is there a wire you forgot to put on when hooking up the battery or did one brake off.Theres a loose connection some where there.. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/joe_a3369546f8067589

It is on the radiator support,open the hood and look

HelloThe engine and automatic transmission in this vehicles drive train are fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM (Power Train Control Module). Whenever a problem like this occurs the computer stores a record of the problem (there are of course some exceptions to this, like the fuel pump, engine coolant temperature sensor and MAF sensor for instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory, to read these fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s) DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL A TRAINED TECHNICAIN HAS DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM TO AVOID SPENDING YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON PARTS THAT MAY NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM

If you are talking about engine cranking, then you should check for free operation of the starter motor solenoid. This is situated on the top/side of the motor and it\'s job is to engage the starter motor only when the ignition key is turned to the crank position. It is plausible that the solenoid has become corroded, or fused in the closed circuit position.To check to see if this is the case, remove and clean the starter motor solenoid, and test it\'s operation while off the car.If you are talking about continuous running, not cranking, then you will best use an endoscope and insert it into the engine\'s cylinders to view the innards. You are looking for a build up of carbon on either the valves, valve stems (when in the open position), pistons, and cylinder head. Also check the condition of the spark plugs for a build up of carbon.Carbon is a byproduct of combustion, and can build up on some internal engine surfaces. This can cause a number of issues when running. The carbon becomes red hot and can retain it\'s temperature for a long period of time. When you turn off the engine in a carburetor vehicle, then air and fuel can still be drawn into the engine while its momentum winds down. However as the red hot carbon in the cylinders is hot enough to ignite the fuel and air mixture, the engine still runs, still turns and continues to suck in more air and fuel mixture, and continues to operate.It may operate quite roughly and eventually stall out, as the fuel/air mixture isn\'t as efficiently burned when ignited by hot spots, and the hot spots may eventually cool enough to fail as an ignition source.These two above examples are perhaps a couple of the most common reasons for an engine continuing to run after the ignition key has been turned to the off position, or has even been removed from the lock/barrel.The only final reason for the engine managing to keep running after the key has been removed, is a faulty ignition lock/barrel mechanism.

Steering box play or bad idler arm and pitman arm,common on these cars.

Yes the smog pump was used on this year and engine. If it is missing you will need all the other parts in the Air Injection system as well.

If you have a carb your fuel filter is clogged or the fuel pump is bad. Fuel pump is on front of block and follow the gas line to it the filter is in line near the carb or behind the big nut on the front of the carb use two wrenches. These brass filters plugged all the time

The wires being pulled out had NOTHING to do with your issue son! As you know it was the washer on the distributor the whole time!

If you have the original engine, likely it's a Quadrajet if it's 4bbl, or another possibility is a Rochester 2gc. The Quadrajet is a modified version with a purge valve solenoid and a throttle position sensor built into it. (funny to see your post because I just took one off a Montecarlo this morning....did a vorteck head swap, cam, high perf. intake, headers and a way larger Holley carb)

That doesn't seem to be a likely issue.
Sounds like it could be your starter, if it's not attempting to turn over try tapping the starter with a hammer while simultaneously having someone attempt to crank it over.
If there was fuel in the oil, you'll need to immediately drain the oil and change the oil filter. I would also recommend replacing with synthetic oil.

84 firebird 2.8L

Many places it could leak, most common are pump oring , pan gasket and selector shaft seal.

carbureted or tbi