2003 Ford Expedition - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

check the controller an vacuum lines

It's not that complicated , disconnect all the connectors ,unbolt the GEM from it's mounting bracket ,install in the reverse order . The only hard part is if it needs to be programmed . On your vehicle ford calls it a vehicle The vehicle security module controls the following systems:

• perimeter alarm
• remote keyless entry (and panic feature)
• computer-operated locks
• auto lamps

1. NOTE: Prior to removal of the vehicle security module, it is necessary to upload module configuration information to a diagnostic tool. This information needs to be downloaded into the new module once installed. For additional information, refer to Section 418-01 . Disconnect the battery. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 .

1. Remove the pushpin and the RH interior kick panel.

1. Remove the glove compartment. For additional information, refer to Section 501-12 .

1. Disconnect the three vehicle security module electrical connectors.

Configurable Modules The vehicle contains the following modules that are configurable:

• vehicle security module
• 4-wheel anti-lock brake/traction control (ABS/TC) module or stability assist module (if equipped)
• electronic automatic temperature control (EATC) module
• instrument cluster
• powertrain control module (PCM)
• driver seat module (DSM)
• tire pressure monitor module
• vehicle dynamics module
• power liftgate module
• temperature-controlled seat module

I recommend drilling a hole down the center off the broken bolt, being very careful to not damage the threads. After you get the hole drilled about a half inch to one inch down the bolt, use a square "bolt-out" broken bolt remover by lightly hammering the remover in place and trying to back out with vice grips or equivalent. You can never use too much penetrating oil throughout this whole process. If there is any of the bolt exposed, you can slice a line into the bolt using a circular cut-off tool and using a large flathead screwdriver to remove.

I would start by checking the throttle plate for carbon buildup. Clean the throttle body with carb cleaner and an old toothbrush if any is found. Other than that you could be dealing with a major vacuum leak, disconnected air intake tube or bad mass air flow sensor.

What do you mean nothing else works ? interior lights , radio instrument cluster lights etc. The alarm light flashes while truck is running ? Let's be a little bit more specific if you can ! The accessory delay relay supplies power (B+) to the driver master window switch . This relay is located in the central junction box ,under dash panel right side . An this powers the windows , the instrument cluster energizes the relay . Interior Illumination is controlled by same relay .

Blown Fuse Check 2003 2006 Ford Expedition 2004 Ford Expedition XLT 5 4L V8 Try this link

http://www.freeautomechanic.com/wiringdiagrams.html Check out this site... maybe they have what you need.

images for 2003 expedition radio wiring

Change bulbs and or reseat bulbs. Flaher relay may be bad. Check for clicking noise once you engage signals. If no clicking noise then flasher realy is bad or needs reseated. The clicking noise is your flaher relay. If you dont hear any clicking more than likely flasher relay is your problem. Easy fix

The Idle air control valve (IAC) is on the back of the throttle body housing on the 4.6 V8, it's half the size of a can of Red Bull. Try tapping on it with a small hammer and if the truck clears up then it's time to replace the IAC.
You can clean it with Throttle body injector but that's just a quick fix for now. Good luck and hope this helps.

Replace the switch, it may be defective. It should only trip from a sharp impact.

-Sounds like bad fuel pressure. Good luck Mai

Double check the ground as well as make sure bulb is properly seated

Under hood fuse/relay panels on these are bad for water., when it is a hard rain. If 303 is the fuel relay, it wasn't fixed. I have tore panels like these apart to see what was wrong. And they are a mess. Copper wires get hot and bend, shorting out all kinds or fuses and relays. I just replace them now. And cover them. All I can figure is water pours threw them on hard rains. Even when the vehicle is sitting. Repaired many of them.

You have to pull them all to get one out. Just look at the job and move whatever you need to, to get the fuel rail loose.

How to Test the Fuel Injectors Ford 4 6L 5 4L

check for a vacuum leak the following is code p2195 all 4 codes are usually connected to one problem INFO courtset of OBD.com Sensor 1) Code OBD-II Trouble Code Technical Description O2 A/F Sensor Signal Biased/Stuck Lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1) What does that mean? This code is a generic powertrain code. It is considered generic because it applies to all makes and models of vehicles (1996-newer), although specific repair steps may be slightly different depending on the model. On some vehicles, such as Toyotas, this is actually referring to A/F sensors, Air/Fuel ratio sensors. Which are basically more sensitive versions of oxygen sensors. The powertrain control module (PCM) monitors the air/fuel ratio of the exhaust using oxygen (O2) sensors, and tries to keep things at the normal air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1 via the fuel system. The oxygen A/F sensor outputs a voltage reading that the PCM uses. This DTC is set when the air/fuel ratio as read by the PCM has strayed so far from 14.7:1 that the PCM can no longer correct it. Bank #1 is the side of the engine that contains cylinder #1. This code specifically refers to the sensor between the engine and catalytic converter (not the one behind it). Note: This DTC is very similar to P2196, P2197, P2198. If you have multiple DTC codes, always fix them in the order they appear. Symptoms For this DTC, the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) will illuminate. There may be other symtoms. Causes Potential causes of a P2195 code include: Oxygen (O2) or A/F ratio sensor or sensor heater malfunction Open or short in O2 sensor circuit (wiring, harness) Fuel pressure or fuel injector problem Faulty PCM Intake air or engine vacuum leaks Faulty fuel injector(s) Fuel pressure too high or too low PCV system leak/fault A/F sensor relay faulty MAF sensor malfunction ECT sensor malfunction Fuel pressure too low Fuel leak Air suction in air intake system Diagnostic Steps & Possible Solutions Use a scan tool to get readings from the sensor, and monitor the short and long term fuel trim values and O2 sensor or Air Fuel Ratio sensor readings. Also, look at the freeze frame data to see the conditions at the time the code was set. That should help determine if the O2 AF sensor is operating correctly. Compare with manufacturers values. If you don't have access to a scan tool, you could use a multimeter and back-probe the terminals on the O2 sensor wiring connector. Check for shorts to ground, short to power, open circuits, etc. Compare specs with manufacturers specifications. Visually inspect the wiring & connectors leading to the sensor, check for loose connectors, wires rubbed/chaffed, melted wires, etc. Repair as necessary. Visually inspect vacuum lines. You can also test for vacuum leaks using propane or carburetor cleaner along the hoses while the engine is running, if the RPMs change you likely found the leak. Be very careful if doing that, and have a fire extinguisher within reach in case something goes wrong. For example, on a bunch of Ford vehicles, the hose that goes from the PCV to the throttle body can melt causing P2195, P2197, P0171, and/or P0174 codes. If a vacuum leak is determined to be the problem, it would be prudent to replace all vacuum lines if they are getting older, becoming brittle, etc. Use a digital volt ohm meter (DVOM) to check other sensors mentioned such as MAF, IAT, for proper operation. Perform a fuel pressure test, verify readings against manufacturers specification. If you're on a budget and you only have an engine with more than one bank and the problem is only with one bank, you could swap the sensor from one bank to the other, clear the code, and see if the code is followed to the other bank. That would tell you it is the sensor/heater itself that's failed. Check for outstanding technical service bulletins (TSB) for your vehicle, in some cases the PCM can be recalibrated to fix this (not a common fix though). TSBs could also call for replacement of the sensor. When replacing oxygen / AF sensors, be sure to use a high quality ones. In many cases non-OEM sensors are of lesser quality and will not perform correctly. We strongly recommend you stick with OEM brand replacements. Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p2195Copyright © OBD-Codes.com

Check the backing plate for the brakes. Really not hard to knock them out of place. Use a screwdriver to bend it away from the rotor.

take down the headliner to access the other motor or wd 40 the cable that isnt working

Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) Switch Removal and Installation

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 .

1. Remove the LH rear interior trim panel.

1. Disconnect the inertia fuel shutoff (IFS) switch electrical connector.