2003 Ford Expedition - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Said safety switch would normally be positioned in the edge of the body seam where the gate can close it. Sounds like it just needs adjusted out closer to the gate. If no adjustment, put a washer of some kind under it. Washer can be anything as long as the switch body is touching metal to complete the circuit when you push it back in.

I found this link online. Hopefully it helps you out. :)


https://fusesdiagram.com/ford/fuse-box-diagram-ford-expedition-2.html

If you're finding it difficult to service/repair your car, get one of those online manuals. You'll not have to wait for others to answer, or rely on mechanics and all. Plus i know a website that has very good manuals online, without expiry i.e. for lifetime. www.reliable-store.com

May have stripped out in that direction .

run quality injector through the system have no1 injector repaired it is most probable an injector problem

See if your battery cables are loose.

sounds like a faulty instrument cluster

You will need a circuit diagram in order to understand how the system works and whether digital electronics and black boxes play any part - as is often the case with later model vehicles. Repairing a fault without knowing how something works requires lots of luck...

By 2003 most air-con systems had considerable electronic control and your problem might be caused by a malfunction there, wiring problems, compressor clutch problems or maybe there is a leak and the refrigerant pressure has already fallen to the point where the system is ceasing to work depending on temperature.

Lack of power because of the vacuum leak wher the line is disconnected from. Start the engine and with hood raised, listen for the vacuum hiss fron it sucking air in and hook the loose line to that fitting where you hear the leak.

Depends on the year, but many are on drivers side, high. Should not be able to miss them.

Could be 2 problems. Some rear main seals leak with oil flowing out where trans joins engine. You should crawl under vehicle and look directly up from oil leak, If inside garage use a newpaper to catch current drip. Gassy oil can be leaking fuel injector draining into oil pan. Sometimes dirty fuel injector will stay open and fuel pressure will continue to drain into motor after vehicle is off. Sometimes stuff like seafoam will clean injectors.

Ya'll should not be driving it and git yer mechanic to take a look at it asap. And start saving as it'll cost ya heaps..

Both the 4X4 control module and the windshild wiper motor share a common ground point . G-301 , probably a lose connection. G301 kick panel, LH side

If it's in the windshield there is nothing you can do except check the coax cable. Unplug it and clean it tip.

If it only does thens when cold, check to see if your vehicle has a cold start system that may not be working or is intermittent in action.

There is a timer circuit (ten minutes)... That should have shut down that power... My first recommendation are the FACTORY REPAIR MANUALS.... (not cheap but well worth the money IF you use them)... Just beware that the ELECTRICAL needs to be part of the books you buy, borrow (check). but of course ($$$$) cost ... ERGO a FREE site with very good circuit drawings & TSBs (tech bulletins)... Registration required at BBB Industries: BBB Industries Premium Alternators Starters Power Steering Products Ignition timer... probably under driver amenities. Hope this helps Carnac the Magnificent

Take it to a shop and have a trained technician listen to the noise, but that noise is most likely a failing engine rod bearing.

There are several hundred areas that can make noise under the hood. My advise if you don't know where it is coming from and if it's really bad tow it to a mechanic. Depending what it is it could be serious.

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