20 Most Recent 2004 Dodge Stratus - Page 7 Questions & Answers

I just answered this same question few hours ago... The culprit is the foolish decisi?n of using a BCM (Body Control Module) to control the door locks with only two wires to the actuator on the lock. In order to "save" a few feet of copper wire, the too-intelligent automotive designers decided to use a costly, heavy, unreliable, complex electronic module instead of the third wire. Therefore, it now needs to multiplex the lock-unlock commands on only two wires. This BCM fails miserably in every Stratus or Sebring and Chrisler Minivans I've seen using this design approach. As the BCM is VERY expensive and a real pain to remove from the dash, I resorted to disconnecting the wiring from the doors to the BCM, and paid a lot less to a car alarm installer, who installed an inexpensive car alarm with remote. Now I have to carry TWO remotes: the original one to set the original Chrysler alarm/inmovilizer, and the second to be able to remotely actuate the locks. It was much less costly (I saved about $350 USD) and a lot of pain to get the BCM from the car, additionally, I have heard that the repaired BCMs tend to fail again in a matter of two to three years after repair... sooo. Best Luck. Amclaussen.

Most probably a burned resistor on the speed control knob... But could also be a burned out blower motor, but the resistor is at least 90% of the times the culprit. Find a replacement resistor with a lager power rating, but the same ohmic value. good luck. Amclaussen.

Easy! The DIS module has failed...! The Stratus 2.4L engine uses what is called "a wasted spark" ignition system, that feeds two cylinders with the same ignition coil. Havind a pair of Cylinders dead means one of the coils or the module is inoperative. Amclaussen.

and try to diagnose the ignotion. obd365

Remove wheel remove brake and caliper then remove and replace the bearing not a real hard job. Just be patient.

I wouldn't be going on any long trips with it. However, more than likely, its not going to let you sit. But, not knowing the code that it is throwing, I can't give you concrete advice. If the engine seems to be running fine, its probably ok, but if its running rough or hesitating, don't go out with it if you don't want to have to call a tow truck.

A ball park figure would be around $600 with cost of pump and labor with labor being most of cost as placement of pump. But I would say you have the full right to have a second opinon of what is wrong with your car before you pay out that amount. Remember you are the customer and they are the client. And cost difference of thermostat and pump is some bills and pcoket changes as you have shown above.

Who is doing the parts replacing? Have you looked at Scan Tool Data & road tested? Have you actually done any testing, to find a problem & used the codes to component test Till you answer that, I will say you need a repair shop Lots of things cause misfires Changing spark plugs & a coil or two ,based on a code, is not doing the required testing to find a problem or the need for parts just yet

never heard of a Rattly Oil Pump.

does it have spark? you may want to check for this and make sure its getting to the plugs. check a plug to see if is wet with gas. if you dont think its getting gas, check and see if you have fuel pressure. if its ok you need a noid light to make sure you are getting a pulse to the fuel injector. if you have fuel and spark, the only other thing is air. if the timing belt is good and the catalytic converter isnt clogged, it should be sucking air (vacum). if the plugs are wet, it may be flooded

If i remember right you have to un do the bolts from the exhaust pipe to the catalytic converter theirs two the pipe splits out to each one and they are in the way... first id drain the oil pan...your also gonna have to remove the oil filter too....its on the back side and blocks the way of the bolts......it was a pain on a 06...

thermostat housing was repalced on 2004 dodge stratus but is stil leaking from a hose. what could the problem be.

look on the underside of the hood or the radiator crossmember, there will be a diagram.

less than $100 on ebay

You may want to check your fluid level. Does the car go into reverse and park. You didn't state if it is just stuck there. If so it could be a linkage issue, be it cable or hard metal linkage. If both of those are fine the lockup on the torque converter may be the problem.

sounds like heater blower resistor

check sway links, ball joints, tie rods and strut bushings, they can all make noise. i would guess sway links

sounds like a bad tire or tires out of balance

pass. side. just below front valve cover

you need to remove the upper intake to get at them