2004 Dodge Intrepid - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Probably have to drop the rack and pinion assembly. Not remove it or disconnect the tie rods, just unbolt the two long bolts holding it in position and drop it down. See attached YouTube video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JBP1uBBZNY&ab_channel=Jonesy%27sJonesy%27s

Hi there's this website something like reliable-store and it is very amazing for manual for repairing servicing anything someone on fixya recommended it to me and I thank him even today They have full manuals and it's verrrrry cheap and mine I got free in offers 3rd time I bought it, I also had an issue with the file so the girl replaced it in 30 mins there is one website more but i don't remember its name it was 2 years back bitman something link this Try these out brother

This is torque spec for different bolt sizes. Hopefully the bolt size will get you in the ball park. Starting with 1/4 inch bolt, those are ft lbs. Note the bolt size--grade-- and thread. My database doesn't have that spec. I'll keep looking.

It will not work.

First, you have to determine if it is gas or spark related that it wont start. You can determine this with easy tests when it refuses to start. For a gas test, buy a small can of starting fluid or carburetor cleaner-either will work. Take off the big rubber boot between the air filter and the throttle body-spray a couple of squirts of fluid into the engine, then quickly try to start it. If the fluid makes the engine actually fire and try to run, then you know you have a gas problem. Maybe a weak fuel pump that won't build good pressure. Checking the fuel pressure is actually the next step if you had a gas problem. If the gas test didn't make the engine try to run, then you would want to test the ignition system by checking for spark. So if it won't start, pull off a spark plug wire from one of the spark plugs. You ever done this before? If not, have someone do it for you , so you wont get a fairly mild, but nevertheless startling shock from the coils. There are spark testers very cheap at auto parts stores, which eliminate the chance of getting a shock. When you test for spark, you are checking the ignition system, you already put new coils in, that is part of the system, but there is more. If you have no spark, next is to see if the coil controls are working -the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is that controller, and it gets a signal from the engine computer, for when to control the coils for spark..

After the engine is turned off, the water gets really hot and expanding water is forced into the reservoir. As the engine and refrigerant cools, it is sucked back into the cooling system. I would suspect it is normal to see coolant bubbling into the reservoir any time the system is getting hotter.

TPS wears in spots and can cause intermittent problems like you described. Try turning off the car and unpluging the TPS. Start the car and see if smooths out the idle/reving problem while the TPS is unplugged. If yes replace the TPS.

When you say won't start do you mean it will crank over but not fire off or do you mean it doesn't' turn over at all? We refer to this a "No crank no start" or "Cranks will not start"

it is possible that when the timing chain was incorrectly fitted that damage was done to the cam lobes or followers and that is the ticking noise the oil recommended is too light for a used engine so go to 20w 40 or 30w 50 take it to an accredited repair shop for a proper diagnosis

Check for loss of coolant also. If you can see/smell oily deposits on windshield, it's unlikely it's from the a/c system as there is relatively little lubricant there. More likely your heater core is leaking and allowing coolant to be blown up onto the windshield. There will also be a distinctive odor with this.

Have the catalytic converters replaced . An quit trying to play automotive mechanic , leave that to a qualified , ASE certified technician !

make sure you unhook the battery first, then unhook the wires, take off the belt, and unbolt the alternator.

Well it's a bit tuff , if I remember your air cleaner tubes got to come out, there is a lock that is between the two bolts , do one at a time , much easier, unhook outer tie rod remove the bolt for that side then remove it from wheel well , change bushing install then do other side

Go to link. http://www.obd2.com/support/reprog/downloads/chrysler/chry-imset_procedure.pdf

Jo Jean, which diagram are you looking for the wiring or the vacuum and what size engine do you have? You can find the engine size on the sticker under the hood. it will be like a 2.5 or 3.5 something like that. Also check out my auto-repair-website at: www.bigasautorepair.com http://www.bigasautorepair.com

one thing is the fuel whilst the engine is off for a while,returns back to the fuel tank by drying the injectors rail,if is that find the return hose to tank and by a pair clamps block it and try by staring the engine to work for few minutes,turn it off,leave it for a while and try to start it,if it goes quicker,-advise- cheaper way to fix it buy an one way check valve and fit it on that hose. If is not that fault,the other fault will might be are the engine valves ( in cylinder Head ) if their clearance could be adjusted by means of spanner and ***** driver- please check them ( valve clearance ) because when the clearance is not the correct and are too tight surely the compression becomes very poor and cause the engine not to crank easily. If Are hydraulic adjusted,please visit the workshop that a professional to do the adjustments. Good Luck. Hope I help!

Could be gone.

You may be able to contact the dealer and ask over the phone the location of the fuse(s).

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Use a friends manual, because I don't believe they have a pdf of the manual on the dodge website. If you find a site with one post it here, because I have yet to find one and would like to have it.

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With a electrical tester and with the cars ignition on, test all fuses and replace the ones that don't have power on both sides. If all fuses are good then you have eliminated the problem being a fuse.

Take it to AutoZone and have it checked for free

located on top of fuel tank. it will have to be lowered enough so you can disconnect and change filter.