20 Most Recent 1991 Dodge Grand Caravan Questions & Answers

what a job, two days , enjoy it .lol gotta take the dash out

ALWAYS check the body grounds first. Ground to the dash gages could be faulty, dirty, or just not tight enough to make a good connection.

Replace the switch The age of your vehicle warrants the switch replacement

Check fuse

Warning you to turn off the lights and save your battery

Let me know if this help you....

Yes, it might be hard to find such a diagram. Short of a factory service manual, I don't know. Perhaps a friendly parts person at a Chrysler dealership might be able to provide you a copy of how the vacuum lines connect, and how routed. What you generally have is a single vacuum line from the engine going into the firewall and under the dash to the rear of the heater/AC control assembly. The line enters a fixture that can distribute vacuum signals through several hoses. One of those is the hose to the water valve, the only vacuum line that goes back into the engine bay. Selecting heat on the control obviously will send vacuum from the fixture to the water valve. The other hoses or lines connect to diaphragm operated door levers to control where air is sent. See where the vacuum line for the valve goes back into the firewall. Then get on the inside and try to find that line-it may have broken or come apart. You may need to pull the heater control assembly out to get to the podlike fixture that the vacuum lines sprout from. An alternative in this frigid weather, a make-do temporary fix, is to tee off a manifold vacuum line from the engine, and run a hose to the water valve. It will be on constantly, but it's winter, hey?

Once unit is sliping, it's at the point of no return. Depending upon how bad it is and how long it's been doing that, sometimes you can use lucas sealer and conditioner to prolong the end a bit but best is to have it rebuilt or replaced.

Check the temperature sensor and the relay for the fans . check that power is getting to the fans and check that the fans are not seized.

one of your pulleys is stuck

try replacing your air filter not enough air will cos it to die i had that problem it would start and go in eny gear but as soon as i tapped the gas it would stall out

first it is a waste of time, buy a new core and install it. if you like tilting at windmills, remove the heater hoses from the nipples protruding through the firewall, ,hold the end of a garden hose over one open nipple and have someone turn on the hose. move the hose back and forth from one nipple to the other a few times. the grime you are trying to remove has melded itself to the core and for the most part will not be coming out. costs nothing though so does not hurt to try. you will have antifreeeze dripping all over when you take the hoses off so have something to collect it.

It is called an impact nipple.

behind front plastic grill. Below driver`s front headlite ontop of inner bumper frame. Remove driver`s headlite assembly and look down to the left.

bad fuel pump or vacuum line

The sound you describe sometimes happens when you have a plugged catalytic converter. You could remove the converter and drive it to see if the problem goes away or you buy a pressure test kit to check the pressure in the exhaust system upstream from the converter. If the pressure is higher than allowed you have a plugged converter.

Hello this is most likely your brake power booster this device boost air from the engine to boost brake pressure to your brakes it is located on the other side of your brake pedal under the engine compartment attached to your brake master cylinder brake fluid reservoir.

3.3l u find tensor in back about under altator its a 15mm lose it and replace and pull up to get belt on