20 Most Recent 1997 Chevrolet K1500 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

The lube job would not have a effect on this . I would check the fuse box for a blown fuse it sounds like a blend door inside of the airbox under the dash board the part is cheap but depending on the year and make and model it can be a real pain to get to , cause a 94 linicon town car took 5hrs to get to it and put back together

My 1997 Z71 did this twice last Summer. PRNDL indicator didn't work, Tach, Speedometer, didn't work. Only 1st & 3rd in auto Trans worked. Fuse for all this wasn't getting any power. Replaced ignition switch. Fixed problem.

You have a blown head gasket.Water in the fuel.This is a classic sign of engine damage.

Sounds like a timing issue with the symptoms you gave. Have it checked by a good mechanic with good knowledge of your make. Also some of the after market programmers can create major concerns. Try returning everything to factory settings and see if all issues dissappear before going to a mechanic.

start bleding again from left to rigt all the way around.

Worn motor and transmission mounts will do that. Jack up the bumper ONLY to relieve the pressure to the steering lock.

it differs according to different cars check on your car manual or use a circuit test light to check which one is blown or long nose plier removing each and observe

Assuming that you have the proper amount of coolent added, check where your heater hoses connect to the engine block for rust and corrossion, this is a common area to clog up, preventing coolent flow from circulating through your heater core. If ok, check for a thermostat that is stuck open.

Check to see if your heater hoses are hot when engine is at normal operating temp. (180 to 220 degrees F) If they don't get hot like the large radiater hoses do, then your heater hoses are clogged, probably at the point they connect to engine. Remove heater hoses from engine and I bet you will see dirt, grime, and corrosion where you took them off, restricting the flow of coolent through your heater core.

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2. Raise the vehicle. Support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
3. Disconnect the range selector cable from the transmission bracket and from the transmission range select lever. Refer to Shift Cable Replacement .
4. Remove the rear propeller shaft. Refer to Rear Propeller Shaft in Propeller Shaft.
5. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
6. Remove the transfer case if equipped. Refer to the appropriate Transfer Case Replacement in Transfer Case:
• Transfer Case Replacement (Selectable Four Wheel Drive) . • Transfer Case Replacement (Auto Four Wheel Drive ) . • Transfer Case Replacement (Manual Four Wheel Drive) .



7. Gasoline Engine--Remove the following components:
7.1. Two bolts 7.2. Two washers 7.3. One nut 7.4. The transmission to engine brace



8. Diesel Engine--Remove the following components:
8.1. Two bolts 8.2. Two washers 8.3. One nut 8.4. The transmission to engine brace
9. Remove the transmission rear mount.
10. Remove the frame crossmember.
11. Remove the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifolds. Remove the muffler assembly from the exhaust pipe, if required. Refer to Exhaust System.




12. For the 5.0L Gasoline Engine: Remove the six bolts securing the converter cover to the transmission.
13. Remove the starter. Refer to Starter Replacement in Engine Electrical.
14. For the 4.3L Gasoline Engine: Remove the dust plug at the end of the starter mounting port in order to gain access to the converter bolts.




15. For the Diesel Engine and 7.4L/5.7L Engines: Remove the four bolts securing the converter cover to the transmission.
16. Mark the flywheel and the torque converter alignment.




17. Remove the bolts that attach the torque converter to the engine flywheel.




18. Remove the transmission vent hose.
19. Disconnect the wiring harness connectors from the vehicle speed sensors and from the park neutral position switch.
20. Remove all vehicle electrical harness wires, harness clips, tubes, and brackets that may interfere with the removal of the transmission.
21. Remove the fluid fill tube and the fill tube seal from the transmission. Refer to Filler Tube Replacement .
22. Plug the fluid fill tube opening in the transmission.
23. Disconnect the transmission oil cooler pipes from the transmission. Refer to the oil cooler pipe quick connect fittings removal procedure in Oil Cooler Hose/Pipe Replacement .
24. Plug the transmission oil cooler pipe connectors in the transmission case.
25. Install the J 21366 in order to keep the torque converter from sliding off of the transmission turbine shaft.
26. Support the engine with a suitable jack stand before removing the transmission from the engine.




27. 5.0L and 5.7L Gasoline Engine: Remove the studs and bolts securing the transmission to the engine.




28. 4.3L Gasoline Engine: Remove the studs and bolts securing the transmission to the engine.
29. Pull the transmission straight back from the engine.
30. Lower the transmission using the transmission jack.
31. Flush the transmission oil cooler and the pipes whenever you remove the transmission for overhaul, or replacement of the torque converter, the pump, or the transmission case. Refer to Transmission Fluid Cooler Flushing .
32. Clean the transmission case using a solvent dampened cloth. Do not allow solvent to enter the transmission.
33. Air dry the transmission.
34. Clean all hardware and the flywheel cover using solvent. Air dry all the parts.
35. Inspect all the components for wear and damage.
36. Inspect all the seals and the fittings for signs of wear.
37. Inspect the torque converter for stripped or broken weld nuts.
38. Inspect the transmission case for cracks.

88-98

Any ABS codes? Auto Zone will read them for free for you. There is a pump I think under frame drivers side that can be defective and will run all the time too.

may need to replace the mass air flow sensor as well as the catalytic converters.