Top 20 1995 Chevrolet K1500 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

take the rubber cap off of your transmission so you can see the alignment properly. u need a light to see it a little. position the thread point with your finger and push it in then tighten it may take two people if not experienced. it take some pressure to put it back but not much. also before u begin these steps. make sure u **** all wheels that are on the ground for safety. Hint the reason why it seems to be stuck. Its because it not in the place it should be to switch the gears. you will feel where it goes. good luck James

Make sure the rear brakes are adjusted up first. Often times it helps to let the system "gravity bleed" for a while. Open the bleeder screws and let gravity do the rest. Keep the master filled up and catch the run off at the wheel.Let it bleed until the fluid runs steady in a clear stream. This will remove most of the air in the system. Then you can do the "pump the pedal" thing.

Did you " bench bleed" the master cylinder before you put it on the truck? If not, do it now. Simply remove the brake lines from the master and replace them with short open lines to a bucket or even back into the master. Fill the resevoir and pump the cylinder until there are absolutely no bubbles coming out of the short lines. Then reattach the brake lines and start all over with the bleeding process. Hope this helps.

check to see if you have power to the pump if so check the fuel pump relay

If the clock will display for a few seconds that means it,(the clock) has power, and perhaps the entire unit. However, if the anti-theft is engaged, a dealer will be in your future. It will take them about a minute to un-lock the radio, or they will know if the radio no longer works.

if its hydraulic then you need to check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder.if its out of fluid you could have a leak in the system or the clutch has gone bad.(throwout bearing,pressure plate).check to make sure nothing is broken under the dash with the clutch pedal mechanism.if its cable then check the cable for breakage,check to see if the clutch arm it attaches to at the transmission is cracked or broken.just suggestions.

My steering wheel is locked and my keys want go front or back.

I assume when you state "signal lights" you are refering to the signal lights in the grill as well as in the tail lights?
Did someone do some wiring for a trailer hook up? (like maybe a U-Haul mechanic???) Even if there is a simple plug in adaptor that goes inline in the rear of the vehicle I have seen those go bad and do funny things. If there is a socket, wires may be shorted inside.

If not, is there any creative wiring inside. Someone install a radio and tap into the wrong wires or an alarm that flashes the lights?

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Right inline on the power line at the motor. Up under the dash.


I'll see if i can get you a diagram....

I had this problem in the middle of nowhere. On the passenger side of the front differential, there is a "thermal Actuator" that screws into the diff. This is what engages the front axle. I replaced mine and 4 wheel works again. Don't know about a second. Be sure to remove the wire connector before removal or your wiring connector.
Leonard Jones
El Mirage, Arizona

You need to remove the fuel tan from the truck. Make sure to support the tank so it does not drop out after removing the hold in bands. Disconnect all hoses and connections from the top before removing the tank. After placing the tank on the floor, use a brass punch(so no sparks are produced) to loosen the lock ring around the tank. Remove the pump and replace. Its a good idea to replace the fuel sock if it didn't come with the pump. Reinstall in the reverse manner.

I just answered the same question for another person. Physically the transmissions will interchange; just be sure to check ALL electrical plug's BEFORE installation AND change your linkage arm. The flywheel SHOULD be the same diameter also,just be sure to check the torque converter bolt pattern b4 installation. Lastly,be sure that the dip sticks are the same........ALL the part's on both transmission's are interchangeable,change as necessary.

high speed blower relay or fan switch at fault. Both are inexpensive to purchase

Inspect the inside door handle closely. Those are notorious for breaking. They start by cracking and then it doesn't pull on the rods that go to the latching mechanism hard enough to open the door. Did you notice that it started getting to where you had to keep pulling on the handle harder and harder to get the door to open? If so I would almost bet that you need a new inside door handle. They are pretty easy to replace but you will need to remove the door panel. The latch mechanism may be messed up or maybe just needs some lubrication.

hhhmmm only warm huh...is the fuel pump making a whine noise...if so chang it...any pressure less than 58 psi wils cause numerous issues...you can also check pressue and spray pattern by putting a timing light on and pointing it at the tbi injectors and note the spray pattern..should be atamized to a V shape pattern...picture a V upside down...and also make shure egr and intake manifols clean passages and not leaking...good luck..

yes but you need to rcover r12 then retro fit the hi side and low side then vacume system then when you ad r134 you only ad 80 percent of what the original amount of r12

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Sounds like you have a fault in your ABS system. To find the failure code, put a jumper between terminal A and terminal H on the ALDL connector, then turning the key on. It will flash the code after about 20 seconds.


Here's the list of the codes
Code 2: open isolation solenoid or EBCM malfunction Code 3: open dump solenoid or EBCM malfunction Code 4: grounded anti-lock pressure valve rest switch Code 5: excessive dump valve actuations during anti-lock stop Code 6: erratic speed signal Code 7: shorted isolation solenoid or EBCM malfunction Code 8: shorted dump solenoid or EBCM malfunction Code 9: open or grounded speed signal circuit Code 10: stop lamp switch circuit Codes 1, 11 and 12: invalid diagnostic trouble codes Codes 13, 14 and 15: electric brake control module malfunction

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While buddles are normal, an excessive amount could mean you have over filled your transmission fluid

1.6.5.4.3.2

might be due to low freon

the 4l60e is an electronic 700r4 it will work and shift but you will always have a check engine light on because computer will see no communication with trans mission. there is no way of overcoming this. I would recommend finding the correct transmission to install might cost a little more now but save a lot of aggravation later