Top 20 1995 Chevrolet K1500 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

The parking brake is near a large bundle of wires, if the bundle is touching the brake arm it may have damage, use wire ties and tie it out of the way of the park brake.

It could be clutch problem, did you check the clutch basket ? If not, check the gearbox oil level.

cheaper going to a garage that does tracking . check places online.

Check fluid if it's ok May need to put on a trans scanner may need some clutches in trans replaced if the valve body in functioning ok.

Sounds like you may have an air bubble in the master cylinder. The most effective way to deal with that is getting a master cylinder bleeder kit from your local parts store - make sure it has the metal clips that will hold the hoses in the master cylinder. Install line adapters after removing brake lines from the master. top up the fluid in the master and install hose clips, making sure the end of the hoses are in the brake fluid at least 1 inch. Slowly pump the brake pedal, making sure you bottom out the pedal and release SLOWLY so you don\'t suck air into the hoses - have a helper watch the fluid level in the master cylinder and the bubble production. The fluid level should not sink during this procedure - if it does, then you may have a faulty master cylinder. Pump until you have no more bubbles. If the bubbles don\'t stop, then you have a faulty master cylinder. Hope this helps!!

Better let people know what year, make and model. Them maybe we can help. I would thing it is your combination light switch in your STEERING column

on your transmission or transfer case

could be electronic soleniod for 2-3 shift. have trans shop hook up scanner to check

Yes there should be a stop if the window is power. You may be missing a guide also.Someone will need to pull the door panel off and take a look at the tracks.

CHECK RELAY AND FOR LOOSE WIRES AT THE HORN.

With no additional information, I would target the lock-up torque converter solenoid.

check fuses and wiring harness from ignition switch

there are three reasons:1 . the brake booster is lack of pressure, need to change a new one.2. the brake pad wearing too much , need to change a new ones.3. the brake fluid can't flow into the brake disc side, have to check the brake hose and master cylinder tank.welcome to ask more questions or visit us:www.fiverhope.com

2 high position unless linkage is not indexed properly

you have duct work behind and under dash, they could be clogged or not connected

try spraying lithium grease at the swivel area

• Dale can you try this in 3rd gear and see what happens. I have seen the engine run away on a kickdown (put the accelerator to the floor) in over drive. What happens is the a woren input sprag in the transmission does not grab on a quick 4-3 downshift and slips allowing the engine to rev up. Rod Roy rodgroy2gmail.com

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Brakes are hydraulic. pedal going right to the floor indicates either brake fluid is too low and air got in the system, or your master cylinder is defective. if air is in system due to low fluid, you will need to bleed the brake lines.

The lifters are not supposed to be adjusted. Each lifter is a small "engine" itself. They are supposed to be self-adjusting (this was changed way back in the 1950's).If you are determined to adjust them, you will need to contact a place that builds race car engines, because there are procedures race cars use that adjust them. Oh yes, you can also replace hydraulic lifters with solid lifters. Some race cars do, and that is because, at really high RPM's, lifters can :"float", causing the engine to "top out" and not go any faster. I had that happen on a car back in the 1970's. Be blessed.