20 Most Recent
1984 Chevrolet Chevy Questions & Answers
I'm having trouble with my 1984 chevy truck. Its a 454. I think its a fuel problem, but what we have tried, isn't working. Four mechanics and no resolution. It dies, usually after idoling for
Dear An,
Here are a couple of answers for you to consider.
1) Could be "vapor lock".
This is where the gasoline gets too hot on it's way from the tank to the carburetor.
Because the gasoline must enter the engine compartment, which is really hot after about 5 minutes of driving, it wants to "vaporize" inside the gas line , changing from a liquid to a gas.
Years ago, many things were tried to help stop that.
One was to attach clothes pins to the length of the gas line that is under the hood, to dissipate the heat.
Another was to wrap the gas line in asbestos cloth to shield it from the heat.
2) Could be "loaded up with carbon".
Years ago, engines that were large absolutely required to be driven HARD.
Otherwise, they would "carbon up " and die after too many "idling around town" episodes.
I was a police officer that had this problem with a 390 Ford engine. We had to "blow it out" after any extended time of more than 10 minutes of idling.
Blowing it out required putting the "pedal to the metal" until it ran right again.
God bless your efforts.
Need vehicle emissions diagrams for 1984 Chevy
I take it that the distributor has a set of points and if so check the dwell angle to set the point gap
if it has electronic ignition check the rotor gap for the exciter and check the exciter operation
more costly parts will not solve the problem as car manufacturers use aftermarket parts in an OEM box just to inflate the price
stumbling on acceleration can be from incorrect ignition timing ( should be 12 degrees BTDC) or a problem accelerator pump/power valve in the carby
holley carbs came with different settings on the power valve and others have an adjustment on the pump linkage
hyt leads should be of high quality in the area of the insulation and plug gap should be correct
check that the coil is wired correctly and that the voltage is correct as it will be running a resistance wire from the ignition switch to the coil to reduce the 12 volts to 7.5 volts when running
low mpg is determined by driver habits but you can check the float level, cat converter for failure and blocking the exhaust and transmission changes are correct for rpms and road speed ( vacuum actuator on the transmission if auto)
Losing gas for restart
The most common cause is a faulty check valve in the fuel pump if your vehicle has fuel injection. If it has a carb it may be leaking into the intake.
Not finding what you are looking for?
