20 Most Recent 1983 GMC K2500 Questions & Answers

Sounds like to me that your return spring on the linkage is either not connected or it is connected wrong. That would be my first check point.

Neutral safety switch is located at the bottom of the steering column, on top of the column. If you suspect it to be bad, you can use a jumper wire to eliminate it and see if truck will start normally. Note that if it is bad, and you replace it, it must be adjusted to work properly. The new switch should come with adjustment instructions.

When you turn the key front. Listen for the fuel pump to prime. It should sound like a low humming noise that lasts about 3 seconds. If it does then check for spark by pulling one of our sparkplug wires and putting an extra spark plug in it. Place the end of the wire down somewhere safe and crank the motor. If you can't seek spark in the plug, it is most likely your coil failing. So, check fuel pump and fuel pump relays first, then spark. Good Luck.

I'm curious as to why you would suspect the cam shaft as being part of the problem. But anyway first things first, anytime a vehicle from that era has set idle for an extended amount of time, the carbuerator will need priming. This will save on the life of your battery to get it started in the least amount of time. As far as changing out the cam, yes it is a job in itself that unless you know how to do it, pay someone else that is experienced at it. It'll save a lot of heart-ache and pain.

Is this a Diesel or Gas???

You possibly have a bad starter. To check for this, it's best to have an assistant turn the key while you perform a simple test. Locate the starter (should be on the passenger side). On the solenoid switch, there will be two sets of wires connected to it. The large battery cable will be connected to a stud with a 13mm nut on it. There might be a couple of other wires connected to this same post. Now there should be a smaller single wire connected to a smaller post an the solenoid. This is the wire coming from the ignition switch. Using a test light, have the assistant turn the key to the START position. You should have power on this wire at this point. If you do, then the starter is bad and will need to be replaced. If there is no power in the START position, then possible problems are the NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH, the IGNITION SWITCH, or a bad connection between the ignition switch and the starter.
Disclaimer: Please be cautious when under any vehicle. Use proper safety equipment if jacking the vehicle, and be aware of any moving parts. We are not responsible for any accidents or injuries sustained while working on your vehicle.

Yes the ignition switch,it is on top right hand side of the steering column,drop column down to the front seat and you will see it,there is a long rod that goes to the switch,and crooks upward,and is lodged in the bottom of the switch,it is a long looking device,with a long looking wire connector plugged into it.It is most likely bad,or the bolts that hold it in place have got loose,and allowed it to move,most likely bad switch.

is it not firing?
if not change the ign modual!!!
if it is firing check the timing gear and make sure its getting fuel!!!

Have you checked the Catayatic Converter? Backpressure may be going back into the engine.

have you checked any of the fuses if there good then check for bad wiring! hint check with a light indicator or ohms reader.

If I understand your post correctly, the small terminal is for switch voltage. If you run a jumper wire from B+ to the small terminal, it should activate the solenoid, just for testing. This is just my opinion. If the wire tries to get hot in your hand, disconnect. Of course the proper fix would be to install some kind of switch with circuit protection. Did this motor come with any instructions? You realize, I can't see anything from here. Use your best judgment.

Sounds like the fuel pressure regulator in your EFI (carburator). Sorenson make a rebuild kit complete with gaskets, screens and regulator for around $30.

It takes a lot of bleeding, keep bleeding it off, make sure your hose clamps or nuts are tight, sometimes there's an o-ring where the hose is, check to see if yours has one, but you have to bleed the system thoroughly If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_2094e122cc46f24c

I don't know but I suspect it will matter which port the restrictor and check valve are fitted to. I personally wouldn't worry about the six stud vs eight stud argument. People tend to buy their own commercial vehicles and there are usually many available options that can be specified at order and fitted during production or changed later. The purpose is to make the finished vehicle more suitable for where it will spend the majority of it's time. It is usually possible to buy a commercial vehicle with the "wrong" equipment fitted that is still in a proper condition... In my experience it is certainly not unusual to buy one sort of truck and uprate or downrate it in order to qualify for a different rate of taxation. GM vehicles used to be fitted with a plate embossed with lines of groups of 2, 3 or 4 numbers that are meaningless to most people but when decoded tells the story of the vehicle options fitted to the vehicle - gear ratio, fuel and air filtration, suspension and so forth... It is best to be guided by those and the chassis number and certainly fit like-for-like unless it is for an approved modification.

Hi, I would need your model and year to find the color. Alternately, you can use a 12 volt test light to find it yourself. Just take the connector off, hook your test light clip to a metal spot under the dash, and probe both terminals in the switch. The wire that DOES NOT light the test light is the one you need.

What are your injectors doing?

Have you tried changing the distributor cap and rotor? These tend to get moisture build-up and cause a slight cross-fire, usually most noticeable at idle. They are also very common for intake manifold gasket leaks, but they usually start out as a coolant or oil leak at the corners of the manifold.

clean your High Idle control valve. It's attached to the Throttle body