20 Most Recent 1999 Mazda Pickup - Page 4 Questions & Answers

IF YOU GET UNDER THE REAR AND REMOVE THE PLASTIC GUIDE CONE FOR THE TIRE WINCH
YOU CAN THE PRY OUT THE LOCKING BUTTON FOR THE WINCH DRIVE.

you are on the FREE forum, so no charge

INSTRUCTIONS TO REPLACE HEATER CORE:
(1)Disarm the airbag system;
(2)allow the cooling system to completely cool down;
(3)using a thick cloth for protection, turn the radiator filler cap to the first stop;
(4)step back and let the pressure release;
(5)once the pressure has been released, completely drain the cooling system;
(6) working within the engine compartment, loosen the ****,ps on the heater hoses at the engine compartment side of the firewall, twist the hoses and carefully sepseparate them from the heater core tubes;
(7)plug or cap the heater core tubes to prevent coolant from spilling into the passenger compartment when the heater core is removed;
(8)place a plastic sheet on the floor of the vehicle to prevent stains if the coolant spills;
(9)remove the instrument panel;
(10)remove the PCM heat sink and ground strap;
(11)remove the heater plenum chamber;
(12)separate the heater core from the heater plenum chamber; (13)installation is the reverse of the removal with the following additions; (a)fill the cooling system; (b)run the engine, check for leaks and test the heater.

try cleaning the throttle plate and the iac motor that should do it

HI,

I think your clutch has some problem or the slave cylinder is not working.

Get it checked at the service centre.

Regards
Kanu

A:

Shoot a bunch of WD40 into the keyway (both doors), let soak, come back in five minues. Put your doom light bulbs back in and test. In case that doesn't work, take your doom light bulbs out forever. The light activator is deep inside the door (some magent thing is as close as I ever came to an answer?), good luck w/ finding it. I took the entire door panel off to replace a driver's side mirror and couldn't find it with two hands, a flashlight and a Chilton's manuel.

Q:
How do I get my check engine light off? I changed both parts on both codes from three different AutoZones. The EGR valve and EGR value sensor and a new hose from the manifold to the catalytic converter. Only thing I can think is to look for a vacuum leak, change the oil, rotate the tires, get new struts and shocks, a front end alignment, get my heat shield welded back into place, get a full tune up, change the transmission fluid, and two new oxygen sensors and these should hold her for quite a while. Rear brakes don't seem to be grabbing correctly, it feels uneven. Anti-lock brakes don't come on. I also replaced the speedsensor this time last year. And need a new windshield. How much will all this cost?

Fuse #5 10A Data Link Connector (DLC)
located in.

Passenger compartment fuse panel
The fuse panel is located on the left
hand side of the instrument panel
facing the driver’s side door. Pull the
panel cover outward to access the
fuses

It might be a fuel injector. Check injectors connectors they might be loose.

THE INTAKE MANIFOLD DOES NOT NEED TO BE REMOVED.U CAN GET TO THE PLUGS W/A LONG EXTENSION & SWIVEL

r-12. yes you can buy it.

Remove the kick panels on either side of the cab. Most (but not all) grounding bolts inside the cab on these vehicles are green. Tie into one of these bolts.

it,s easy just open the hood and look down where the headlight is, unplug wires that go to the bulb socket,you may have to remove a lock ring, it just twists off then unlock bulb and replace,reverse for installation. REMEMBER DO NOT TOUCH THE GLASS ON THE BULB,oil from your fingers can cause bulb to fail prematurely. they get very HOT!!

you need to have the gease certs greased...there are several of them and they need to be packed with grease

he said power steering? wtf?! if it's air in the lines, he messed up, which I highly doubt it is in the first place. See, depending on the method of pushing the pistons back in, he should of bleed the lines when the job was done. I belive, when he "turned" the rotors it wasn't quite centered and now when you're stepping on the breaks, it's causing a "shaking" through your steering system. what's happening is, your break pads aren't in contact with your rotor the whole time while breaking because the rotor wasn't level when it was "turned." so your brakes are gripping half the rotor and not the over half causing the "shaking." And in cause you were wondering, the term "turned" basicaly means shaving off the glossy film on your rotor so that the new brake pads can and will grip your rotor better for improved stopping power. Which should be done everytime when brakes are changed. Now, as of him messing up when turning the rotors, don't be mad. That happens. A fraction of an inch can cause this and is easily fixed. Just be polite and ask him to return the rotors. If he refuses, then start getting rude about it. Redoing the rotors, shouldn't take more then a hour and at no cost to you cause it wasn't done in the first place. Sorry for rambling on.

the vehicle gets its speed reading fom the rear wheel speed sensor mounted in the top of the rear axle housing.this sensor may have gone bad...are the abs light or check engine light on

there is one buld that lights up the dash it has blown you need to remove the panel and replace takes probly 30 mins

As long as all fuses are good, you need to check the light switch its self. Remove the light switch assembly from the dash. With a 12 volt circuit tester, check the wiring coming out of the switch. The dash lights will be powered along with the side marker lights.

Probe each wire that joins the switch, turning the switch on and off. If you don't have any loss of power here, it can be at the printed circuit board at the dash.
Bill

An ABS sensor DOES affect the traction control system. Traction control uses these sensors to determine if a wheel is losing traction. A bad sensor will cause both the ABS and TRACTION lights to come on.
The CHECK ENGINE light however is going to be a seperate problem.

with a manual tranny, the most likely cause for problems going into gear is the synchronizers, as long as it is just the synchros, a rebuild on bearings and synchros is not to terrible.