Top 20 1989 Mazda 323 Questions & Answers

it evaporates normally on hot weather when not in use for long period of time but on cold weather i dont think it will evaporate that much.with 323 sometimes there is something wrong with the gas gauge..

Have it looked at by a dealer,iam not sure here but i think you have a vacumn leak like the feed pipe to the servo split but really you need a mechanic who works on these cars day in day out and they will go straight too the problem for you

just buy one

Loosen the adjuster assemble this makes the inner cable longer then is will come off

break and clutch have the same reservoir

check all the bulbs theres probably more than one bulb busted

I will give you an off record advice as my dad used and sometimes I follow myself. Before starting the engine go by the distributor and loose the two or three bolts might be 12 mm or 13 mm ,- someone else to do the starting- as you are by the distributor start turning it to the side where the engine starts to rev up. You stop turning the distributor soon as you notice the engine started reving up, There you tight the bolts. Switch the engine off and then restart to see whether the engine starts easily and quick.

if i' not mistaken its in the tank..remove the back seat and you'll find the cover for the sensor remove it you;ll need a phillips screw driver and you'll find the pump directly inside the tank

You do not need a thermostat for the fan to work but you will need a thermostat for the engine not to over heat. Put simply the thermostat controls the flow of water through the radiator cores so that the heat in the water has a chance to transfer to the cores and fins and away.. NO thermostat =too fast water flow = hot engine.. Fans work off a temperature sensor which tells the CPU when to activate the relay to switch on the fan. Check out the circuit for the fan including the sensor ,fuses, relays and wiring, and fan . Fix it properly so that you can enjoy driving

There should be little groves on the crank pully 4 or 5 marks

try to check the fuel pump

step 1check for spark take off coil lead then unscrew plug pop the plug back into the lead and hold it to the block turn the car over if it sparks then you know there okstep 2fuel...turn on reds on dash the listen out for a buzzing sound this would be fuel pump if no sound fuel pump could be faulty hence why car won't start!

replace the pump any japanese car fuel pump will do

It is possible the fuel pump baffle is separated from the fuel tank weld and this allows the fuel pump to **** air on corners. Pull the tank out and have a look is my suggestion, allot of work so its your call.

Persistent bubbles indicate a leaking cylinder head gasket. To confirm this have a shop with a engine gas analyzer problem the coolant tank and see if any combustion gases (hydrocarbons) are present, if it indicates there are you have a leaking head gasket.

remove one by one and let somebody start the for you so you'll hear which one is running

1989 Belts

• INSPECTION
• ADJUSTING
• REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Print

INSPECTIONAll Models Belt tension is very important, as a belt that is too tight will put too much stress on the bearings of the components it drives, causing them to wear out prematurely. A belt that is too loose will slip, causing (1) the belt to wear out quickly due to friction heat, and (2) inefficient alternator, air pump, cooling fan or air conditioner operation because much of the turning power supplied by the main drive pulley is lost. The belts should be inspected and/or adjusted at 2,000 miles (3,221 km) and then every 4,000 miles (6,441 km). First, make sure that the belt is properly positioned in the pulley. Check the pulleys for damage. Inspect the belts for cracks and signs of fraying. These usually develop on the inner surface and extend into the backing or outer surface of the belt. Check also for glazing, a completely smooth appearance which indicates slippage. A belt that is in good shape will have a slightly grainy appearance like cloth. Replace belts that show cracks or glazing. Check belt tension. Apply pressure with your thumb at the mid-point between two pulleys, and the belt should stretch or deflect about 1 / 4 - 1 / 2 in. (6-13mm). If the belt is too tight or too loose, adjust/replace as necessary.

ADJUSTINGExcept RX-7 See Figures 1, 2 and 3 To adjust belts, first locate the mounting bolt on the air pump or alternator (each has its own belt and adjusts to permit that belt to be tensioned correctly). This bolt attaches the unit to the engine and has a nut on the end. Put a wrench on either end and loosen the bolt until there is practically no tension on it. Then, loosen the adjusting bolt, which is located on the opposite side of the unit and which passes through a slot. Pull the alternator or air pump away from the engine and tighten the adjusting bolt just enough to hold the unit while you check tension. Repeat the adjustment procedure until the belt deflects the proper amount, then fully tighten the adjusting and mounting bolts. Avoid too much belt tension or overtightening of bolts. A new belt should be tensioned just slightly more (about 0.4 in. or 10mm deflection) and checked after several hundred miles of operation to make sure that tension is still adequate. (Tension is lost very rapidly until a new belt is broken in.)

Fig. Fig. 1: Some engines utilize an idler pulley with a locknut at its center

Fig. Fig. 2: After loosening the idler adjuster locknut, turn the adjusting bolt clockwise to increase belt tension or counterclockwise to decrease it

Fig. Fig. 3: On some GLC engines equipped with power steering, the pump pulley uses a slotted adjusting bar, adjusting bolt and locknut to adjust belt tension Late model GLCs, 323s, 626s, MX-6s and 929s may use an adjusting bolt on either the idler pulley (a pulley which is not directly associated with any of the accessories) or on the power steering pump itself. This bolt makes adjustment much easier because you don't have to hold the accessory under a great deal of tension while tightening the mounting bolts. On models where the idler pulley has a locknut at its center, simply loosen the locknut, then turn the adjusting bolt clockwise to increase belt tension or counterclockwise to decrease it or remove the belt. Do not forget to retighten the locknut when tension is correct, or vibration may cause it to fall off. Recheck the tension with the locknut tightened and readjust if necessary. To adjust the power steering pump pulley on the GLC, loosen the slotted adjusting bar bolt, the mounting bolt across from it, and the locknut at the bottom of the adjusting bolt. Turn the adjusting bolt counterclockwise to remove the belt or reduce tension, and clockwise to increase it. When tension is correct, tighten the adjusting bolt locknut, adjusting bar bolt, and pump mounting bolt. On 626, MX-6 and 929 models with a 4-ridge or 5-ridge ribbed type V-belt driving both the air conditioner and power steering pump, belt tension is much greater. With a used belt, deflection should only be about 1 / 4 in. (6.35mm). RX-7 See Figures 4, 5 and 6 The RX-7 may be equipped with as many as three or four separate drive belts. The belts are arranged at the front of the engine and drive the cooling fan/water pump, alternator, power steering pump, emission control air pump and air conditioner compressor (if so equipped).

Fig. Fig. 4: Checking belt tension on 1979-85 RX-7 Check the tension of each belt at the arrows numbered 1, 2, 3 and 4 (depending on year) shown in the illustration. Press on the belt with your thumb using moderate pressure (about 22 lbs.). The belts should give or deflect the amounts shown in the chart.

Fig. Fig. 5: Checking belt tension on 1986-89 RX-7

Fig. Fig. 6: RX-7 belt deflection limits Use the following appropriate procedure and illustration to make drive belt adjustment(s).ALTERNATOR AND AIR PUMP See Figure 7

1. Slightly loosen the stationary pivot bolt on the alternator or air pump.
2. Loosen the adjusting bolt.
3. Using a piece of wood (tool handle, etc.) as a prybar, move the alternator or air pump outward or inward until the proper deflection is obtained.

Fig. Fig. 7: Adjusting alternator drive belt tension on 1986-89 RX-7 When prying on the alternator or air pump, make sure the prybar is anchored against the engine case and not against a component (distributor cap, etc.) which could break.

1. Tighten the adjusting bolt. Remove the prybar and tighten the pivot bolt.

AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR AND POWER STEERING PUMP See Figures 8 and 9

1. Loosen the locknut on the idler pulley, if so equipped.
2. Turn the adjusting bolt until the proper tension is reached.

Fig. Fig. 8: Adjusting air conditioning compressor drive belt tension on 1986-89 RX-7

1. Tighten the locknut and recheck the belt tension.

Fig. Fig. 9: Adjusting power steering pump drive belt tension on 1986-89 RX-7

REMOVAL & INSTALLATIONAll Models

1. Loosen the accessory being driven and move it on its pivot point to free the belt.
2. Remove the belt. If an idler pulley is used, it is often only necessary to loosen the idler pulley to provide enough slack to remove the belt.

To install:

1. After the new belt is in place and properly tensioned, start the engine and allow it to run for about five minutes to seat the new belt.
2. Stop the engine and recheck the belt tension. Adjust as necessary.

On engines with many driven accessories, other belts may have to be removed to access the one being replaced.

You are a front wheel drive all traction is in the front,either you are overeving which is a transmission slip,if you say you loose power when accelerating you are describing a plug air filter and even a plug catalytic

Proper procedure would be specific to your Mazda. But, in general: 1) Loosen big axle nut with car on ground. 2)Place car front on jack stands, remove wheel. 3) Remove ball-joint from lower control arm to knuckle. 4) Remove tie rod end from knuckle. Knuckle and spindle assembly should now be free, only except hanging off of strut.5)Remove big axle nut and push axle out of knuckle. If it's stuck, try a solid piece of wood on end of axle, and a sharp hammer blow should free it. If that don't work, get a 2-jaw puller to remove axle from knuckle. Swing knuckle out and remove your half-shaft. May need to pry it from transmission, as may be held in by a small circlip. Careful you don't overextend the CV joints or they'll come apart. A big screwdriver between CV housing and transmission case should pry it out. When putting it back in (if there is a circlip on the transmission end) you need to hear it click or snap to verify circlip is seated. 6) Replace seal, and now you can put it back together. Tighten all removed nuts and bolts back to their proper torque. The big axle nut will take a lot of tightening-about 150-180 ft.lbs., so do that after car is back on ground. Done! One thing I forgot to mention: when you remove axle from transmission, fluid will come out, so have a drain pan ready. And top off transmission with proper fluid or gear oil when finished. Good luck. As said, procedure would be specific for your car, so I'm not positive you need to remove tie rod from knuckle.

If you're looking for more than a good tune-up will provide, google Mazda and find an enthusiasts forum for your 323. Guys do mods to everything now. They should help steer you in the right direction.