20 Most Recent 2002 GMC Sierra C/K1500 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

That sounds like a problem with the turn signal switch or multi-function switch, and if the vehicle also has a tilt steering wheel that the tilt is used often, then check the wires at the connectors to the turn-signal/multi-function switch because they have a tendency to break off there.

You could have a faulty fuel pressure regulator of a bad CSFI. Here is a link you may interest you to getting your Suburban running 100% again soon.

http://members.shaw.ca/betterthanyoutoo/Sticking%20Poppet.htm

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mabee a bad plug wire but if its a dry looking soot black then a leaking fuel injector or the control wire to that injector is shorting to ground.

take the spark plug out of the #1 cylinder and turn the engine by hand until the piston is at the top dead center of its stroke (put a screw driver in the hole and you should be able to tell when its all the way up). now pull the cap off the distributer the rotor should be pointing at the #1 cylinder wire. if not then the distributer is in the wrong possition. remove the distributer and point the rotor in the correct possition(#1 cylinder) and place the distributer back in.also if this is a used engine replace the cap,rotor plugs and wires.the truck should start. Hope this helps you out.

Nope, normal on start up is 60 PSI and once warmed up drops to 45 psi. Have the oil pressure checked for a proper reading during start up's when the engine is cold. As for the lifters ticking, that may be a sign that the engine was ran with low oil pressure or no oil and the lifters are damaged, or low oil pressure and the lifters are starved of oil. Try not to drive it and have a proper oil pressure reading, low oil pressure will damage the engine by having the main crank bearing to spin which is a engine replacement. Good luck and keep me posted.

Yes, these brakes are basically the same, some do require that you twist the pistons counterclockwise as you push them back into the calipers. I found that with a good pair of needlenose & just a little pressure while twisting they always go back in to the bottom.
Never bad to pick up a Haynes manual for a few bucks when getting your parts, or at least get the torque specs. The manual offers illustrations & torque specs for reassembly of everything. I checked & it appears you have rotors that are removeable once the calipers & supports are removed. Good luck

Oh my!! I'm guessing the "oil pressure relief valve" is stuck open. Does the motor sound OK no knocking or ticking? The "oil pressure relief valve" is built into the oil pump.

The front blower motor is controlled by the blower resistor module.This is usually the problem with the front blower not working.I looked up the schecmatics and I don`t see separate fuses for the front and rear.But the fuse for the front blower is in the under hood fuse block.If this is good then The problem is probably the resistor module.It is next to the blower motor.The connector from the resistor connects to the blower motor.If you want to confirm this you can check for power and ground at the blower motor connector when you activating the blower switch on.This can be done with a test light.Make sure you have power going into the resistor module also.If you have power going in and no power at the blower motor then replace the resistor.Hope this helps.Good luck.

Connect the meter, then pull fuses one at a time until the current draw goes away.

You have now isolated the circuit that is the culprit. Troubleshoot that circuit and you'll find what is causing the problem. I would suspect there is a light staying on somewhere (engine light) or possibly ABS pump (if truck has ABS brakes). Maybe dash lights are on all the time.

Let me know what you find, or if you need more help.

If the air bag has not been deployed, do not try this yourself, they are Very dangerous.

Did you check for ignition miss first? Check spark plugs and see which ones are firing correctly and which ones aren't. Did this vehicle ever overheat in the past? If so, that could be the biggest problem right there. If it did overheat, the fuel lines under the intake manifold can melt resulting in cylinders not working properly.

The injection system sits under the intake manifold and it works by supply and demand. Piston goes down and that opens the poppet valve to let the fuel flow into the cylinder. When the piston goes back up, it closes the valve. 9 times out of 10, there's dirt in those poppet valves, which in turn makes the engine run rich with no control over the fuel.
Advise to check the fuel pressure regulator too.

what bolt pattern?????

most of them mount under that back rack although where ever you have the room is fine. It doesn't really matter where you mount it so as you have room for it.

try going into reverse for 10 feet then go to drive for 10 feet that might help if not it is to the wiring to you 4x4 engage system (wires to your wheel hub) I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/john_2c7bb9c157d0baa8

WHEN THEY DO NOT WORK OPEN THE HOOD.RIGHT ABOVE WHERE THE STEERING COLLUM COMES THROUGH THE FIRE WALL IS THE WIPER MOTOR.ON THE MOTOR IS THE WIPER CONTROL MODULE.SMACK IT W/YOUR HAND.IF THE WIPERS START TO WORK THE CONTROL MODULE IS BAD

their is a shrot in the colum
if you put in a toggle switch,run directly from the battey and use a nob that way you can cotrol the speed just by turning it