20 Most Recent 2001 GMC Sierra 2500HD - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Just ahead of the starter the knock senser just screws into the side of the block. The problem is it screws into the engine coolant and the coolantr will come out then you remove the old senser. even if you frain the raditor coolant will still be in the engine ( quite alot) and you'll need to catchir in some way. You can get about 2 gallons. The messly way to do it is to ( with the engine cold) loosen the senser till you can turn it by hand. With the new senser in th=your other hand remove the senser and quickly screw the new senser in. You'll almost certainly get coolant on you so be eady, covering your eyes and arms ( glasses and a raincoat) you do it quickly eniugh very little mess will be made. The plug just squeezes and pulls off. Knock sensers seldom fail but the connection and the wires do. Someone replaceing the startercan hit the senser and break it. Don't drop the senser as the fall can break it too.

It will be located on the oil pan at bottom of engine.

The valve controlling the oil pressure in the torque converter stays fully opened longer than it should because it's failing and it will have to be replaced.
This is a warning sign that the entire transmission is worn out and close to failure - it will have to be thoroughly tested and most likely refurbished, a long, complex and expensive procedure that can be done only by a repair shop, preferably one specialized in transmissions.

The first thing I would do is change the transmission oil filter, located inside the trans pan. This may or may not be the problem but it is a starting point

Hi, does the sensor have letters A-E on the terminals? Normally the connector on the harness should slip right into the sensor. Does your sensor just have wires to be soldered--no receptacle? I have pasted the harness wire colors below for the 6.0 liter engine, including the terminal letter for each wire. If the sensor does not have letters, you will need to run a test to see which end begins with terminal "A". Since terminals A and B comprise the IAT, which is a thermister, you could use an ohmmeter on the 2 end terminals to see if the resistance changes with ambient temperature. Do not touch either sensor, but blow hot air on the IAT to see if the resistance changes with temp. Whiched 2 end terminals yield this temp sensitivity are terminals A and B.

Turn the key to the on position. Press the accelerator pedal to the floor and then release. Do this 4 times within 30 seconds or so. You will see the change engine oil indicator on the dash flash. After that the light will be reset.

It is located on the passenger side under the dashboard. Depending on your interior options there is either 1 or 2 covers that will need to be removed. Once removed there are 2 filters inside. Have a vacuum cleaner handy in case a lot of dust and dirt falls out. Good luck!

on the right side valve cover it sits on it

Your freon level is low and needs to be recharged. To have this done properly, a total evacuation of the A/C system should occur so that the seals can be replaced. The seals are leaking and that is where your freon is going. Once the seals are replaced, the system is then recharged with the proper amount of freon. Hope this helps.

Sounds like it could be the high speed relay for the blower motor. Try tapping on it when it's acting up. If it helps at all, you may want to change the relay.
Thank you,
Lee

All late model gms have a seperate fuse for trailer lights in the under hood fuse box. Your truck running lights will still work but no trailer lights

psbowlchoker, Sounds like the window has fallen out of rail, When the glue or opoxy gets brittle it happens. The rail is moving witthout the window in it. Get your self some door panel tools and go for it. Also get the door panel buttons, no matter how careful you are they always get buggerd up somehow. Two part epoxy- metal-weld is the best bet to re attach the window to the rail. good luck

change the plug going to the back of the alternator and check the gray wire from it to the firewall for breaks

I hope not, Pulling the dash is a major job, major job, I mean a big job!! In other words, you don't pull the dash. If the antennae is out of the fender and you need to pull the wire through, or connect the wire to the windshield, I think it would be easier to pull a new wire out to the fender than pull the dash out. Radio guys, have tricks they use all the time, they could have it done by the time I get around to thinking about where to start. Sometimes it pays to use them. I would not even consider pulling the dash.

The light blinking is similar to the check engine light; it is the "check 4wd system" light. There is most likely a code associated with this error that can be determined using a diag tool/reader, which can be done at a dealer, by a mechanic, you can buy one of those tools yourself, or rent it from autozone. Find what the code is and figure out what it means using predetermined code databases for your vehicle (OBD-II codes they are called). Might just be the electronics in the module that you press to turn it on, or it might be something mechanical underneath. Check the code first though i suggest and proceed from there. Hope that helps!