20 Most Recent 1997 GMC Sierra K2500 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

VSS is still good if you have your cruise control and speedometer working, it's common for the wire harness to the solenoid on the passenger side to get corroded and or the sires to break due to the heat given off from the catalytic converter beside the transmission. Check the condition of the wire harness and clean the contacts with brake cleaner and reinstall with some grease to keep the corrosion away, hint use marine grease. Marine grease cost a few cents more but resist water longer and better then normal lutetium grease, I use it on everything and get longer life out of my u-joints and front end suspension. Most transmission shop will test drive free of charge and scan the truck for DTC codes that sometimes will not show up in the check engine light, but mostly you do have an electrical problem so check all your fuses and wire harness from the ECM to the transmission. Good luck and keep me posted, be glad to help you get your truck running 100% again soon without some transmission shop getting you to replace the whole transmission for $2,300. If you are going to have the transmission service, "fluid and filter changed" Have them replace your boost valve. The boost valve is around $45.00, the boost valve controls the amount of transmission fluid pressure and low transmission fluid pressure will cause the transmission to fail. I replace mine every second transmission service and i have over 365,000 miles on mine. Keep up the good work friend.

Go to any Advance or Autozone Store and buy the Chiltons Manual for your vehicle. They are around 19.99 and this will have every repair that you will ever need to repair anything on your car. I love theses books. They have pictures and step by step instructions. Hope this helps.

Check the power steering fluid level.Allso check the master cylinder level.Witch ever is low is your problem k

did you check the alb sensor? You might also have the "return spring" stuck in the emergency brakes. Sometimes they break causing the brake to lock, which in turn activates the alb. Also, check the brake oil level, in some cars alb dont work properely if the oil level is too low. Good Luck
Anton

go to a glass shop they will replace just the glass I just had mine done

Check the injector pulse. Used noid light connected to the injector connector. Crank the engine and observe the light flash.

Are you familiar with using a 12 volt test light between + battery cable, and post of battery to find it? Takes a little time, but good way to find draw.

Hardly seems worth changing the lock cylinder, since it is not that easy.
Just be more careful turning the ignition off.
Put in an ignition indicator light on the dash if you have to.

Just remove and replace the line, but do it quickly to avoid too much air from getting into the system as it drains out. On start up, do not rev up the engine at all or you aerate the oil and have problems. When you cycle there steering from left to right do it at an idle and it slowly, again, you do not want to aerate the oil. good luck.

The oil is aerated, and hiig rpms while moving air jus mixes or aerates it further. Let sit fo 24 hors with **** cap loos. When ready to drive, don;t rev the engin. normal driving will cause oil to flow with aerating and as the oil heats up the air will be forced to seperate.The is nothing wrong unless your tank assembly was more than needed. it will clear . not to worry.

Gravity bleed your brakes starting at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. No pweddle pumping. I Fill M/C and leave cover off. Then open the bleeder and watch what is coming out. Uou can see bubbles. When the fluid drips steady and without bubbles, cole and do the same to the other three. Don't let the master cykinder get low because thr fluid level helps move the fluid and air through the lines.Periodically tap the break lone with your wrench to keep everything moving.. When sll bleeders drip clean and steady. Make sore your rear brakes are adjusted to barely touch the drum. Then top off the master cylinder, cap it and give yourself a "break". :)

It has to be done with a scanner. You can adjust this distributor, but there are no timing marks to watch as you move it. There is a timing mark on the balancer and on the timing cover for referencing Top Dead Center #1 cylinder only, but it is only used for dropping the distributor in to get the engine up and running. A scanner is needed to properly adjust the timing. Connect the scanner and look for a data parameter labeled ‘cam offset’ or possibly ‘cam ******.’ It will be listed in degrees. Start the engine, and bring it up to 1500 rpm. Note the reading. If the timing specification is not within plus or minus two degrees of zero, you need to move the distributor. You can move the distributor with the engine running but the timing will not change. After you move the distributor, the ignition has to be cycled off to let the computer learn the new timing spec. Restart the engine, bring it up to 1500 rpm and see what the new spec is. You must repeat this procedure until you get the timing into the specification as mentioned above. Once you have it set to spec, the code should clear.

First remove the vent from the middle of dash up by windshield. It has one philips head screw, then has a clip on each side.

Then you need a 7mm. First there are two screws under were the vent you just took out was. One is longer than the other.

Next take the side covers off each side of the dash, these are the sides of the dash were the door panel meets the dash. I believe there was either one or two screws on each side after the cover is popped out.

Next open the glovebox, there are two gold screws up through a hole in the top of the glovebox, they hold the airbag in. Then there are like four more along the edge of the glovebox were the top of the door would meet the dash.

After all those screws are out then you can take the top dash cover out, but your not done yet.

After the top cover is out you will have like four more screws they go straight down right behind the face of the dash. After they are out the rest is clips and unplug the wires for the lights and lighter. After its free remove it,

Now you can take the two or three screws holding the radio out and pull it out. Now just reverse the whole thing and pray for no extra screws or broken tabs.

It takes more time than it is hard, just don't try and rush it or you'll be calling salvage yards for parts. Hope this helps.

take off defroster grill

take out the two screws under the defroster grill

remove dash side end caps

remove one scre from each side

In the glovebox area remove the two golden colored bolts they are up through the hole in the top of the glovebox

then there are three more screws right were the top of the glovebox door would be if it were closed

lift up on the dash and pop out the locater pins above the gauge cluster

then remove the dash cover

then remove the dash face by removing the screw on each side of the gauges and the last one to the right of the center vent (these go down from the top)

then unclip from around the radio and unplug the wires and remove the face

then unbolt the radio and remove

assembly is reverse

P0154 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 1). You have a bad O2 Sensor. I dont know how your O2 sensors are labeled, but your local auto parts store should help you with that one. Good luck to you. Let me know if you have anymore questions.

Sincerely,

JC

It might be a ALB sensor. Did you check to see if the sensor is operational? Its the cheapest place to check.

The abs light has to be reset by a scan tool.It should not have come on unless the new wheel speed sensor is faulty or you forgot to plug it back in or you turned the key on while the sensor was unpluged.Double check your work before having it reset.Good Luck!!!!!

check the relays in the fuse panel located in the engine compartment near the battery

Robert

On the drivers side frame rail (inside) is your fuel filter. Cheap to replace. But if you don't hear the pump cycling prior to attempting start it is more than likely pump in the tank. Check fuses first though. Big job

no... open tail gate you will see 2 screws on the side .............