20 Most Recent 1997 GMC Sierra K2500 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

I really need an answer to this question, also. Mine started doing the exact same thing today.

On the drives side long the fire wall on the harness, will be one wire from all the other ones, it could be brown or tan, disconnect the that wire, start engine and set timing, turn engine off reconnect wire and check timing again, should be advance now, also some times that will cause an engine light to come on, just disconnect battery for 15 sec. and computer is reset.

The transmission has gone bad. I am sorry to tell you this. I wish I could tell you that it is something simple.

The timing will have to be set with a scanner tool,or the vehicle will not recongnize the timing when you change it,and the computer is storing the old information.

You are probably looking at a regulator or motor.

If you do have fuel pressure, but there is no fuel getting into the cylinders to run the engine, then the engine does not have an injector signal or pulse to open the fuel injectors.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

your looking for an orange wire for your ignition and a yellow wire for constant power i believe. it's easiest to find them behind your deck/cd changer. just cut the wires and slice into them before the connection point of your deck wiring harness

Unless you want to do a lot of work i would find another 4l80E or rebuild yours. 700r4 is not electronic shift and you have no connection for the shift cable. And if you get a electronic 700r4 (4L60E) The plugs are completely different and you would need to change the whole engine harness and ecm.

did you ever consider your catalytic converters?

Whenever I add accessories to our trucks at work,I always go directly to the battery with an in line fuse somewhere in the circuit. This keeps from draining power from any thing else on the vehicle.Since this will be a low power drain,you may want to look at your fuse panel and see if there is an empty fuse holder marked accessories and use that.Some vehicles have 2 one that is on with the key and one that is always hot. Good luck!

this is a ignition switch problem (key) probably ok change the switch part ( they have your part at autozone

ecm or pcm or both man does not sound good the fluid bothers me..

Heres the cheap old school way of re-aligning the headlights:

Find someone with a similar size height and weight GMC or Chevy truck and have them park 20 feet away from a brick wall or any wall when it is dusk and you can still see somewhat good. Have them turn on their headlights and get you some duct tape and tape 2 x's where you see the left and right beams hit the wall. Then thank your friend and have them drive off.

Now you park your truck in the exact same spot they did and turn your headlights on. Then run out in front of your truck and you will see some screws that you have to turn above and to the side of your headlights. These screws control the vertical and horizontal aiming. Turn the screws clockwise or counterclockwise so that the left and right headlights are pointing to the duct tape x's you got on the wall.

There you go old chap. Cheap Cheap fix for ya without paying the mechanics fee.

Cheers

try replacement of the brake light switch

You have to have a scanner to set it. What you do is look at the data on the scanner and you will see the timing at a degree mark. You set it by turning the dist just like before but on each move you snap the throttle to about 3500 RPM and then check again at idle.

Unless you can get a scanner just have a shop do this for you.

You shouldn't have to. Once you have the hub off the truck they will come out with a sharp rap with a good sized hammer. When you put the new ones in, try to line the grooves up as best as you can so you don't enlarge the holes and tap them back in with the same hammer. Make sure they seat snugly to the hub. If you are doing the rear ones then the axles will have to come out of the rear end to accomplish this. Hope this helps.

1600 is not idle speed my friend, 600 or 700 is idle speed. You need a tuneup on your 13 year old vehicle.

You probably have blown drive hubs. Do you have to engage the hubs at the wheels? If not and they are automatic locking and they are probably blown or seized into the unlock position. They are not too expensive to replace with manual locking hubs (My Suggestion) but the autolocking hubs are expensive. When you take the caps off the front drive spindles and try running it again you may see the axle turning inside but not the wheel. That is the best test. Wish you luck!!

to verify the compression in every cylinder for which if you have no compression it does not start you. If you have compression, spark, gasoline. it must start

$450.00