20 Most Recent 1997 GMC Sierra K2500 Questions & Answers

With some makes and models, there is an auto down module for express down, it can be part of the driver door master switch. With express down, when the window gets to the bottom, the module may sense over current, then interrupts voltage. On some vehicles that had problems with window motor, I have touched power window circuit breaker, this one was metal, hot as it could be. The circuit breaker will trip when it gets hot and none of your powers will work. Once the circuit breaker cools down, it may reset and the windows will work again. If you bench tested the new window motor on the bench, with jumper wires to battery, It will probably run as long as the jumper wires are hooked up, nothing to shut the voltage off. Just my opinion.

Had a similar problem on a friend's old Caddy last year. It wasn't until I was standing underneath while he worked the key the cause revealed itself and I saw a tiny spark. Cleaning and refitting the power cable and starter motor connection to/from the solenoid did the trick. Mostly such problems are caused by worn or sticking motor brushes, assuming the supply and ground are ok, and it is best when a problem is experienced to dismantle the motor and take a look. Often, if there is access, the problem can be further recognised by striking the starter sharply with a hammer in the vicinity of the brushgear while someone is holding the key in the start position. If that causes the engine to crank or causes more clicking the problem is likely to be the brushgear. The starter won't receive current from the solenoid until the solenoid is fully "home". The ground path of the pull-in winding of the solenoid is via the motor brushes and if insufficient current flows there will only be partial solenoid travel aided by the hold-in winding which is not powerful enough for full engagement alone. The internal contacts of the solenoid rarely fail but the possibility should not be ruled out if no other cause is apparent. After the motor has been examined it is wise to bench-test it before refitting.

1997 GMC Subburban 1500 loses Tach Speedo and Trans sticks in High Gear. I changed the ignition Starter switch which I read was the problem but problem is intermittant and still exist? AMMCO told me to try changing the Neutral Saftey switch first, but didn't say why?

Sounds like Speed Sensor problems .Trans is in "limp mode " .I had a 97 K2500 do the same thing .

ITS POSSIBLE BUT I HAVE SEEN THIS WITH THE CRANK SENSOR AS WELL. I HOPE THIS HELPS

Check the condition and operation of the following:1) Spark plugs, leads and coil(s)2) Air filter3) Fuel filter

not 100 percent but in 95 it is 700r4 and went to the 4l80 in 97 for obdII its the same just more electronic unfortunetly i dont think it will work in ur application

Oooops..sounds like you need an overhaul. Firstly, do not use this vehicle whatsoever. You will simply damage moving parts of the engine if you carry on using it. Get a mechanic to remove the Cylinder Head from the engine and inspect it for damaged Cylinder head gasket as the first step. Depending on the condition of the gasket, you will be able to tell whether its just a gasket replacement you need or ultimately, a Cylinder head reconditioning. I hope thats all you need. If not then you will probably need to remove the engine block from the chassis and inspect the crankshaft. For this, you will need to deliver the Engine block and cylinder head to a reputable Engineering machine shop near you. Good luck..!

maybe just a tuneup would help or some gas treatment...

look for the part of the metal tubing for the ac by the front of the car thats fatter then the rest where a connection is. usually fat for about two to three inches. its inside there.

In 1997 GM used 80W90 dino fluid in the rear diff. Starting in 1998 they started using 75W90 GF-5 rated synthetic. GM says not to use an additive in the G80 locking diff installed in trucks as it could slow the locking mechanism and cause damage.

What engine do you have. Are you looking for the fuel level sensor or the fuel pressure sensor.

i would check the cap and rotor if it has spark and 40 lbs of fuel pressure if cap and rotor are ok check for injector pulse thats the only other thing it can be

There shouldbe three. The up streams will either be in the exhaust manifolds on either side of the engine or in the exhaust pipe right after the exhaust manifolds. There will be one ( downstream) after the catalytic converter. You could also have just two. Both would be in the exhaust pipe just one before the cat and one after the cat. I'm pretty sure you have one on each side and one after the cat. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com! I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

The distributor ignition system on this engine is completely controlled by the PCM. No adjustment is possible (unless you reprogram the PCM using a system 2000 pc and Tech 2 scan tool). If you are having a problem in which you believe the ignition is at fault, I would start diagnosing elsewhere.