1992 GMC Sierra - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

very common for the vac, actuator on the frt. diff. to go bad..

50 to 50

force it back all the way and it should line it self as the pressure pushes back against the fork

Have a fuel pressure test done, also check fuel filter make sure not clog. If check engine light on run computer diag, if it has an MASS sensor could be bad, also get reading of TPS should have .50 volts at idle.

there is an electric motor that does the switching check to see if it is binding

Could have a bad O2 sensor. When the sensors go bad the ecu goes to a default mode which in your vehicle might be a bit rich. By accelerating hard you are giving it more air thereby leaning out the mixture.

Ok, you got new 02 sensors, that is good, Now check timing, vacuum hoses for leaks, check for headgasket leak with compression test, Check or change fuel filter and plug wires. If fuel injected, try using injector cleaner and you can also remove one injector at a time to make sure it is not leaking or plugged. You can also test throttle position sensor and idle position sensor with an ohmmeter to see if they are good.

Was the distributer cap and rotor button replaced?If you have no check engine light on then it is likely you don't need a senser.When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced?Also you need to look at the vaccume line to see if they are craked or broke off where they join tubeing,without more info this is all i can offer,hope it helps[start with the cap and rotor button].

ck the engine to body grnd, Top rear of engine scewed to firewall.

Start by disconnecting the battery. This is important or you could loose fingers.

Underneath the engine, on the passengers side of the vehicle is where the starter is located. Sometimes the exhaust system can get in the way, if it's stock it will probably be ok. There will be two bolts that hold the starter in place. Keep them separate as one may be longer than the other. Be careful when removing the second bolt as the starter is kind of heavy and you don't want to have to take a trip to the dentist as well. Some starters also have a rear brace on them that goes from the starter to the block. This may or may not be there, I don't recall seeing them on the last one of these I worked on. There will be a solenoid bolted on the top of the starter. It's a smaller cylinder than the starter body itself. Leave that connected to the starter. Make a diagram of which wires went on which post here. There are 3-4 places for wires. There should be 1 - 2 3/8 inch posts and 2 1/4 inch posts. Like I said diagram where the wires go so you can get it hooked up again. Don't let the starter dangle by the wires, it's hard on them. Also there may or may not be some shims under the starter, between the starter and the engine block. Keep them if there are, you may need them. Carefully check all the dimensions of your new starter to make sure it will fit.

Inside the left frame rail about the drivers door area.

your highway acceleration problem could be a coil problem. Not sure if that year of chev has coil packs or not but experienced same thing with ford 5.4L. went through 3 coil packs and did the same thing each time before biting the dust. Transmission seems to be sticking on the 1to2 upshift and could be a sticking solenoid in the valve body of the tranny. If the shifting problem persists then the tranny deffinately has to be rebuilt. It's made it quite far if tha is the original tranny, you cant expect too much life out of it if it has been worked hard. I highly doubt a fluid change would help at all. Or if you want, you can buy a can of new truck from GM for about 25 to 35 thousand bucks! Typically works great!

No.

Cheers

I would look for a sticking Idle air control motor. or a vacuum leak under the throttle body

firing order is stamped on the intake manifold or its in the owners manual

do a cylinder leak down test. that is a better judge of the cylinder. I would bet it will not hold much pressure in the cylinder.

Hello there:
the way you are describing it it is sounding like the fuel filter is started to clog and might need to be replaced.
you may also want to look into a tune up i.e spark plugs and wires and rotor cap and air filter ect ect ok?
best regards michael

Master cylinder is leaking inside. Goes into the vacuum cannister for the brakes, (Power Booster), and is drawn through the vacuum hose from power booster, to intake manifold.

Replace master brake cylinder.

First remove the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the booster. Then remove the vac hose. Then remove the clip at the brake pedal to the rod. Then remove the 4 nuts that hold the booster near the brake pedal. Then remove the booster and install in reverse order. Let me know how it goes.

You remove any of the trim that is contacting the headliner,remove light in the center,remove visors and any hooks that are there to hang things on ,Most of your trim has push in retainers handles and hooks,seat belts should have screws inthem.