1992 GMC Sierra - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You have a bad ground to the rear lights. It is on the drivers frame rail.

1) I hope you tested the new starter before you installed it; I have come across brand new defective ones before-It's not common, but it DOES happen. You might have to remove it and bench test it just to make sure it IS good.
2) Did you try testing the OLD starter before you relinquished it for the core charge? At this point, it may NOT have been faulty after all.
3) Check ALL fuses-both in cab and under hood.
4) Some vehicles have safety features implemented: for instance, you might have a faulty neutral safety switch-it might not be able to start unless it believes it is in neutral or park.
5) If all else fails, (2 man job) check for starter voltage when key is in START position (starter removed)-wiring or relay problems.
6) Starter may be good, but not have enough power? Check battery voltage-should be 12.6 volts.
7) Even the best starter will not be able to turn over if the engine is seized or binding- make sure you can turn engine by hand (remove plugs (compression), put socket on harmonic balancer bolt and turn by hand IN DIRECTION ENGINE NORMALLY TRAVELS.

Hope this helps.

(this is for power steering pumps that are pump and reservoir in same assembly) First remove the fan shroud. Then the fan clutch/fan needs to be removed. Then belt needs to come off as well. Then you need to have a pulley removal kit to remove the power steering pump pulley. Disconnect the pressure line from the back of the pump ( I think it's a 16mm fitting), then remove the return line clamp and the line itself from the pump. Remove the bolts holding the mounting bracket that sits flush on the back of the pump. Last, remove the bolts holding the pump to the bracket in which it sits. I got my pump from auto zone for about forty bucks, but found that one of the studs on the back for the mounting bracket was about a 1/4 inch longer than the original, so I had to saw off the excess in order to make it fit. Not a real problem. Replace everything in reverse of removal. Be sure not to over torque the pulley when reinstalling it to pump. It should sit flush on shaft. Be sure to bleed the air out after filling the pump with power steering fluid by turning the engine on, rev it up to about 1500 rpm's, and turn the wheel left but not to stopping point and right but not to stopping point. Do this a few times and you should see the air surface inside the reservoir. Check the fluid level after bleeding for a couple minutes and fill to specs. Cap reservoir and road test. Also make sure you install the new o-rings that come with the new pump, very important!

Compressor won't start until there is at least 45lbs of pressure in the system.The relay is in the underhood fuse/relay center.

check tie rods or wheel bearings.

Sounds as if you have a wiring problem. You need to check at one of the bulb sockets and make sure that you have current and a ground. Then this will tell you what wires to look at and you need to back track from there till the break or bad connection is found. This may take some time but in a case like this as long as all fuses are good this is how you have to start and just stick with it and you will find the problem.

check for a seperated tire.or check for loose front end parts

Look on the radiator schroud where the hood latch is and look to right.of latch.

see if a fan blade is missing or bent or under shield 4 catalytic converter loss maybe catalytic it self

Best thing is to call the auto wreckers. If they don't have one they'll find one, and ship it to you.

set the number 1 cylinder to top dead center and theres a mark on the dist. housing looks like an arrow with a 6 on it thats where you want your rotor pointing

are your headlights pointed to far down, would cause not to be as bright

You have to get it cherry with a torch and wiggle. You could cut the pipe on a strait section and use a coupler. If your just reusing the cat cut it close and air chisel out the rest then use a short tail pipe expander

with drivers door open you standing pull lever and slap the hood with your other hand .. ya i know it sound stupid i have used this trick thousand of times. one more if ya got a tuff one it takes 2 guys one to pull the lever and in front of the hood just above the latch slap it quick ..ta da

have u checked the gear selecter hasnt moved under car

your fuel tank has water in it and in cold temps it surrounds the filter on the pump and ices over cause gasoline ges way colder than water

Bad fuel, bad air filter,PVC valve, EGR valve

3RD & 4th shift solenoid is bad inside the transmission

clean the MAF sensor with some carb cleaner... be carefull not to break the thing wires going across the opening... remove clean the EGR valve and replace them. check for vaccume leaks... best way is with carb cleaner... but be sure not to spray the exhaust and away from intake so it dosnt grab any of it and botch yr results. gl

Hello cdsports.
When I see this concern two things will come to mind.
Partially plugged fuel filter or a partially restricted exhaust system.
When you throttle up the demand for fuel rises and if the filter is plugged up it doesn't allow enough fuel through to meet the needs.
Similar with the exhaust system. Usually I see plugged exhaust in an engine that has been misfiring, running too rich or an engine that uses oil.
Too much fuel or oil entering the exhaust system can overheat the catalytic converter and melt it down.
A pressure test of the exhaust system ahead of the converter and after it will verify a plugged converter. I have seen a few mufflers deteriorate and plug up as well.
There are other possible issues but these are where to begin.

KL