20 Most Recent 1986 GMC G2500 Questions & Answers

I agree with you, it sounds like a ground. Black wire, try a redundant ground for park or headlamp.

Only solution is to replace the oil seals

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Adjust expansion gear in back to loosen brake shoe from drum and tap around drum with heavy ball peen hammer and pull side to side

Usually a sign of a problem with the switch or the motor in that door.I would check for power and ground at the switch then at the motor.The circuits are reversed for up and down.

On most vehicles the transmission information is inbeded the VIN # or vehicle identifation number . Unfortinatly on GMC and CHEVY its not . It is stamped on the passangers side of the transmission at the rear of the oil pan just above the pan gasket you will likely have to clean it off to read it it will be a 9 digit # with letters being in it . The most common transmission for an automatic is the 4L60-E If the forth digit is D thats what it is . As far as the leak goes you need to deturman where its leaking from the pan gasket or the rear oil seal or is it comeing from in front . Transmission do not normanly leak so make sure that its not engine oil you are seeing that is being blowen back witch is much more comon . Transmission fluid is red and smells differant then engine oil and is thinner . Check the oil level on the transmission see if its red and dose it smell burnt if so it will be more black witch is vary bad . Do you have any shifting problems .Also check your engine oil to compare the 2 oils . In a nut shell its your vehicle and your the olny one that actully look at it and looking saves money and blindly replaceing parts costs a lot and rearly fixes the problem

Dear Rasmussen_40Have you removed the surround covers that protect the top, bottom and indicator/ igntion areas. Once you have, you should find that either a torx bolt/ socket or a pin will remove the additonal lock ring. . . you will also have to remove the ignition barrel otherwise you will encounter a whole heap of trouble with your sterering lock.I hope this is the fixya for you and look forward to hearing how you get on with this issue.Yours sincerelyOuszen

Can only be a couple of things. Electric fuel pump is not functioning correctly, the electric switch is stuck between tanks, or you have a blocked line.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: A gauge is recommended, but you can check belt tension with thumb pressure
Fig. 2: Loosen the component's mounting and adjusting bolts slightly to remove or adjust the belt(s)
Fig. 3: Push the component toward the engine and slip off the belt
Fig. 4: Slip the new belt over the pulley
Fig. 5: Pull outward on the component and tighten the mounting bolts
Fig. 6: Accessory mountings found on 6.2L diesel engines

1. Loosen the driven accessory's pivot and mounting bolts.
2. Move the accessory toward or away from the engine until the tension is correct. You can use a wooden hammer handle, or broomstick, as a lever, but do not use anything metallic, such as a prybar.
3. Tighten the bolts and recheck the tension. If new belts have been installed, run the engine for a few minutes, then recheck and readjust as necessary. It is better to have belts too loose than too tight, because overtight belts will lead to bearing failure, particularly in the water pump and alternator. However, loose belts place an extremely high impact load on the driven component due to the whipping action of the belt.
   

Disconnect and label the wiring harness connections to the alternator (Painters Masking tape works very well for labeling Automotive wiring).

Loosen the alternator pivot bolt.

Remove the bolt that attaches the alternator to the adjustment arm.

Rotate the alternator to loosen the drive belt and disengage the belt from the pulley. Be careful that any spacers that are used in mounting are kept with their original bolts. This will make correct reinstallation much easier.

While supporting the alternator remove the pivot bolt.
Remove the alternator from the vehicle.

To reinstall the alternator, reverse the removal procedure.

Check to see that the vaccum hose is on from the carb to the cruise unit. Most common prob. Frankster016

Could be many things. You can take the spark plug wires at the sprak plug end and check for spark with a tester or visually but you have to be careful so not to get shocked. With the ignition off, renove the wire at soark plug and with an old spark plug insert the plug into wire and make sure you rest the spark plug on a grounded metal surface of the engine bay and crank and look for spark. You can also measure the resistance on each spark plug wire with a multi meter.
Other causes can be weak compression this test will eliminate a lot of conditions like bad valves ir valve seats, rings etc. You can probably rent a comoression tester at autozone and just follow the correct procedure on how to test so u get a correct reading. If you create an account at autozones website you will have access to a lot of repair manuals. Good luck

You need a fuel pump .