20 Most Recent 1991 Volkswagen Jetta - Page 3 Questions & Answers

its cam followers and/or camshaft

It's most likely the Antenna connection or the FM bands circuit has burned out. The AM Antenna looks like a coil and is actually in the radio in most models, the FM Antenna is the one built into the windshield or sticking up off one of the fenders or somewhere. Check the connections if you have good connections you'll have to replace the Radio.

DANG .NOT GOOD NEED TRANSNISSIN.

I would check for any play with the shifter linkage under the hood, below the master cylinder. Also, check to see if the clutch cable needs adjusted, unless it has a self adjusting clutch cable. The clutch may be starting to wear out too?

make sure we dont get too high tech those are double element bulbs first of not un comon to have one element working if they are good use a dvom and test resistance from stop light switch to bulb sockets if that is good make sure you have a ground for just brake circuit if all above is good try unplugging stop switch at pedal and jump the two pins if that works stop lights you know the switch is bad if not check voltage coming to switch let me know we can fix this and remeber the KISS theory (keep it simple stupid) please rate this info

disconnect the alarm from the battery and that should fix it for ya... :) hope this helps

This sounds like there could be a malfunction in your switch. Possibly it has shorted out and is now seeing a complete circuit all the time. I would recommend replacing the switch. Also instead of unplugging the battery every time you might want to find the fuse, it would be easier to just pull that out and re install it when you go somewhere.

Have you checked anything?

Volkswagens are common to have a vacuum leak or head gasket leak. I have fixed many idling issues with vacuum leaks by replacing cracked and leaking vacuum hoses

try a can of Berryman's fuel injection cleaner. run the tank threw then fill with 76 super and try it again. good luck/ dont accept anything other than berrymans

Did you have the thermostat replaced also? It could also be a cloged radiator causing the over heating problem.

well if i were you iwouldnt touch the mech fuel pump, u can turn down the fuel but if you dont know what ur doing its a big job... i would turn up the boost about 1.5 to 2 psi its easy and will burn off that extra fuel. should give you a little more power. or go to TDICLUB the will have step by step instructions with pics

right hand side of engine above bell housing in that plastic housing

replace the coolant temp sensor its giving a false reading causing it to quit .

Temporarly torque the axle nut to 87 in.lb., while turning the brake drum by hand. Then loosen the nut slightly. Tighten the axle nut again, slowly and in small increments while turning the wheel, until the thrust washer can just barely be moved back and forth with a light push from the tip of a screwdriver.

the heater core is starting to get restricted. Reverse flushing the heater core can help. somtimes it may need to soak in cleaning solution such as automatic dish washing detergent by pooring it into the heater hoses. it will probably get worse in time if nothing is done.if it wont flush clean it will have to be replaced.

heres a belt diagram i'm not sure what motor you have so i will give you all three, theres a 1.6 diesel and 1.8 gas and a 2.0 gas, i will label them for you, hope this is helpful, good luck. all are the same, there are two belts and all engines are the same these diagrams are tricky to see but the belt should line up with the pulleys, look at the belt and make sure they are straight. also you list a 1991 and they dont use surpentine belts, maybe you ment a 2001, a will give you that also. these diagrams are good for lower years and newer years also, the engine sizes are labeled,

Remove rear dooor panels. take inside plastic loose at the bottom and half way up the door.take and tuck in the bottom of door...this does take in account the plastic is still on the door. Now take another piace of plastic and seal it against the door frame . Then reinstall door panel.

not always the golw plugs can be bad and the engine can be low on compression. does it start alot better if you add a gallon of kerosene to 5 gals of desiel? Or a quaart of gas? the glow plugs can be checked with a test light the connectrs are in plain veiw and the wires going to them are big. Follow the wires back to the relay they go straight there, the relay is real close to the battery as it draws alot of power follow the big wire on the battery that doesn't go to the starter and thats the glow plug relay. they last good but the connections get dirty, reconnect all the connectors on itand see with the key on if the glow plug light comes on on the dash that wire that lights the light is the same wire that lights the light fires the glow plugs. You can take the wire off the glow plug( you need to do it anyway it's a yearly service anyway and with a test light connected to power touch the disconnected glow plug with the lights probe and the light should light, not all of them are likly to be bad but if you find two or more just change them all as the ones that aren't out are likly to fail anytime and if you want to drive though the winter you need all the help you can gt. the battery cables and the one going to the glow plug relay are likly to fail at the battery so go over this good It might start fine with just two glow plugs working I'd pick the two center cyclinders or the two outboard ones as once the engine starts it'll keep running long enough to start the other ones. low voltage as your cranking can effect the glow plugs but the relay is suposed to turn the glow plugs off at cranking and time out after they've been on long enough. dirty connections are almost always the problem so clean everthing before you replace anything. Needs cleaned before yu put on new parts anyway and the glow plugs need to be taken out with the right tool or you may end up with a broken off glow plug in your cyclinder head.