20 Most Recent 1998 Mazda MPV Questions & Answers

If your system is like my old 91 there was a relay and vacuum actuated switches. My problem ended up being one of those relays being bad. There were 2 relays and they had the identical part numbers so to test it I switched the wires from one relay to the other and it went into 4wd. Might be an easy fix. Check your manual and see what makes it go into 4X4. If you dont have a manual see if you can download your models manual at www.pdftown.com I think that my series was similar to yours so look on the firewall on the left side by the strut tower. You will see 2 sets of wires going up into rubber boots. The relays are in the boots. It took me quite a wile to figure it all out but the transfer case has a little motor and some contacts inside the end of the transfer case housing. Thats is where the magic happens but the relays are what make the magic happen. There are also vacuum switches on the drivers side strut tower. One engages the front end and one disengages the front end. There is a vacuum actuated system that works the front end and if the rod or vacuum goes bad and the system sees that the front end didnt engage this will also give an error. I would start at the transfer case relays first. Like I said, it is what gave me your exact described problem. Hope this helps... and dont forget to rate the fix. Thanks... Dale

not sure . Check you tube here is a video of a 2001 it may be similar to your model https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_W1VwljOK0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwdBEENa7Is Don't know anything about your vehicle but from watching the videos below you may have to check the neutral safety sensor as well ! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0s543TdsXw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8QJX-MWkBU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=heoqEJaSJYA

You will need to replace the parking brake shoes on the rear wheels. Also check all the cables and hardware going to the parking brakes. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/steven_a67ead41eb5fc62a

Hi,have a look on u-tube,if im looking at the right part it seems to be on the inside of the auto sump,hope this was some help all the best.

TCU transmsision were combined with the ECU referb or used ..ebay need to find same year ,same engine and transmission

Here's a link to your timing belt. Repair Guides Engine Mechanical Timing Belt And Sprockets AutoZone com Here's another link on your firing order. Specifications Firing Order AutoZone com

I have the same problem with my 98 mpv when I flip the switch the light just flash's

You have a bad ignition switch

You have to take off the wheel well cover after that make sure you do it on both sides in the front there should be bolts that connect to the bumper take the bolts off then open the hood take out the lights unless it does not need the lights to be taken out some cars require at some cars don't there will be both that are holding the top of the bumper on then you take those off the bumpers should come off if not there might be some hidden bolts that you might have to find make sure you keep track of where everything is at and make sure you put it back on in the correct way otherwise your bumper is going to be sideways.

check the bulb first,then the fuse .if ok then you need to know if you have power to that bulb .check with a meter .

You lost overdrive. Could be the TCC solenoid stuck or open short. Wiring. Or the EPC solenoid is clogged.

Yes, it makes you want to carry a loaded gun in case the car tries to get away from you! Startling issues. I'd let an auto electrician try to fix it. Too many issues for a simple ignition switch replacement, although that might be in the mix that you will have to try. Taking the battery cables off a running car should not kill it- it will still run off the alternator. Don't take the battery off in that case- could cause a short or damage the alternator. Next time try pulling the ignition fuse or injector fuse to kill the engine. Good luck. (Maybe your car needs a leash to tether it when you leave it.)

The gauges should get power from the same circuit. So if the gas gauge works, the temp gauge should have power. Could be the sending unit on the engine, or the gauge itself.

Got fuel? Sounds crazy but you'd be surprised how many times I have poured a gallon of gasoline into someones car to get it to start. No start condition is the most frustrating problem. More information on what happens when you turn the key would help......but basicaly you need 4 things to make a car start. Fuel. Air. Spark. Timing. - oops - 5 things - A key! Sure you are using right key? Had a couple once who had matching chevys and they swapped their keys and didn't know it. The key has a chip in it and only works on that car. Crazy, but the keys fit and turned in both cars. (Almost matching serial numbers? never figured that one out). Anyway, sorry. Fuel, Air, Spark and Timing are needed to start/run. Asked about fuel, but is the fuel getting to the cylinder? Do you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail(s)? When you turn the key to the "On" or "Run" position, do you hear a whining sound coming from the rear (fuel tank area)? That is your fuel pump priming the system. No sound? Check fuses and relays associated with the fuel system. Air. You need air to the cylinder to make it start and run. Check your air intake and filter. Really clogged and dirty filter? Pull it out and try to start. No go? Put it back (change ASAP) and look for Spark. Spark includes battery. Are there any loose connections to/from your battery? Really corroded terminals? Clean and tighten the connections. Try to start. No go? Pull the spark plug wire off an easily accessible spark plug (grasp the "boot" as close to the plug as possible and wiggle back and forth easily while pulling - these boots and wire connectors are fairly delicate). Remove the spark plug (be careful and dont break it or cross thread it when putting back in) and pop the wire back on it and set the plug on top of your engine (away from the spark plug hole). Have someone try to start the engine. You should see the spark plug fire its tiny bright blue spark. If not, you have found your problem. The problem is likely a bad coil, bad coil wire, distributor cap, rotor or a combination of these. If you have spark, then it has come down to timing. There are lots of things that affect timing in modern cars. There are a couple of sensors that jump out - Crankshaft and Camshaft position sensors. These will generally quit working while driving and you will likely notice the problem beforehand with it running really rough and getting crappy mileage, and the check engine light will come on and give you all kinds of hints. IF you turn the key and nothing happens, it might be a broken timing belt, but again, those usually fail under working conditions. It is possible (rare) the timing belt slipped/broke when you last shut off the engine, but I would point at the other 3 things first (Fuel, Air & Spark). Hope this helps. Good luck.