1995 Mazda 626 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Valve Seals are bad, you need the head rebuilt, new seals and valves. You could try a stop leak product to espand the seals if it has been sitting for awhile. I would not buy anything expensive, but it would be worth a shot, before you have to tear off the top of the engine. Mechanics refer to it as a "Head Job" Well old school mechs. Ask around. I know it is not the PC term, but it is definately Valve Seals oil is leaking past these seals and into the combustion chamber.

Fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump

Check for spark sounds like bad coil.

The fuel pump may be failing, They will pressure up and then bleed off. Can you check the fuel pressure? Fuel Filter replaced? I assume. nimber one reason for fuel issues. simple maintenance on the schedule but often ignored

You have a short to ground on the wiper circuit...

Put a globe in the place of the fuse and work your way through the circuit, the globe will be lit until you remove the short...

the letters should be on the fender or back trunk lid. if there is nothing there then it will be LX

The only wires to a manual transmission is the speedometer. Being a 95, it may not have wires. It could be cable. You could have pinched some wire when installing the transmission. My guess is you lost ground to the cluster. Since it comes on with the neutral switch engaged. When you engage it, the cluster finds the ground source threw it.

Shake steering wheel side to side pushing in on the key while Turing the key to the off position

If the alternator is on the top in the open, just loosen the alternator bolts a little bit. Then push the alternator to loosen the belt to remove it. Do the opposite to put the new belt on. If the alternator is buried under a lot of other things, it's a lot tougher job. Hope this helps.

First Check All Air hoses. Make sure no vacuum leak are present. make sure your ignition coil are good. This will make engine idle roughly. For the rpm to high or to low maybe your air idler is no good. If you're car turn off it might be overheated. Check coolant level. Make your not mixing water with oil. Check the oil dipstick to verify. If like a milky color then it's mixing water with oil. This will car to stall and run roughly

The only thing that course of that if that the valves are bent.

Sounds like timing belt ? and the Distribiter could be off too ! had the same problem with a work van would run ok then die ,first was the timing chain then trying restart It bent the valves so never ran right again and I didnt want to rebuild the Engine

There are many different signs of a bad starter. First thing you want to note is if you have a "check engine" light on with the key on engine off or with the engine running. If you have a check engine light then go to advanced auto/ autozone etc and they will scan it for free. Also, while you are there, i THINK they will also check the starter for free... what seems to be the problem you are having? no start? start then die? takes long to start? please advise, Tim

No only when you turn it off it will not turn back on

Have you tried any gas tank fuel injector cleaner? Coul also be a dirty throttle body...spray and wipe out...Have you inspected the air filter for dirt or obstruction? (should be near the throttle body)

It could be a Mass Air Flow sensor or a Air Temp sensor. The only way to know 100% is to get the car scanned and see what is going on.This is the cheaper way to go rather than just throwing parts into the car hoping the problem gets solved. good luck

exhaust gas re circulation valve,is quite easy to spot,follow the small supplementary pipe from the exhaust manifold back towards the inlet manifold,and there is a small valve mechanism that is a gateway between the inlet /exhaust system integration.

OK.. So what is the problem??

it sounds like 1 of two things either your starter relay is gone and you need a new one ,they arnt that expensive or its your hold in winding in the starter motor this is a bit more expensive but can be changed quite easily.

IT'S NON ADJUSTABLE R FUEL INJECTION>