20 Most Recent 1991 Mazda 626 Questions & Answers

Under the hood left side in the power distribution box .remove the cover look at inside of cover should be labeled.

The relay is in the left rear corner or drivers rear under the hood back by the windshield.

pull the wheels off and check the brakes if drum brakes possible breakage if the retaining components or also check cables and connectors

Tune up, filters. Being a 91, I would do a compression test on the cylinders first. Bad compression? None of the stuff above will help much.. Sometimes makes it worse.

sugar is hydrocarbon same chemistry as oil and fuel so it will mix in the oil ( make it a bit thicker) coffee may not dissolve but will be held in suspension in the oil to be removed by the filter so basically the contamination will go through the pump into the filter to be removed So at this stage talk to several accredited service shops but I am thinking that drain the sump, change the filter run the engine until hot then change the oil and filter again collect a sample of the oil in a glass jar and look for contamination in the oil--it should be the same new color oil with no visible bits floating around Maybe a second run till hot then again change the oil and filter after that a filter change at say 1500 miles or a week to make sure that the filter is not blocking up I feel that because it has not been run long that a flushing process using the grade of oil recommended along with frequent filter changes will most probably be the cheapest way to fix along with moving well away from the ex

Hi Barry: If you've checked and you have hot blue spark at the plugs then it has to be fuel or timing. Let's assume you havent done anything to change the timing. That leaves fuel delivery. Check that the injectors are being triggered. Could be you have a faulty cps.

If equipped with timing belt..... check for jumped/broken

To fit what engine,year,cc, etc, need more info to be able to help you.

I'd try changing blower motor

are all the spark plugs have spark

Look at the top of the engine and locate the fuel rail on the injectors. There should be a Schrader valve on the rail. Take a small screwdriver or a nail and push in on the Schrader valve. Have the helper turn the key on and look for fuel pressure at the valve. If there was no Schrader on the rail, just loosen the fuel line for the same results. If there is no fuel expelled, check the fuel pump fuse and relay located in the relay box. If these are not faulty, the fuel pump has failed and is need of replacement.

DO YOU MEAN WHEN YOU ARE ACCELERATING? Or do you mean sitting and reving the engine? If you are just reving the engine in park then the rev limiter is kicking in.

The first check I would be doing is to bleed any air out of the clutch slave cylinder. I would be checking that the clutch system is operating and getting full disengagement of the clutch. From you description of the problem everything points to the clutch not working properly from either hydraulic problems or cable failure.

official figgure is around the 65lbs mark but i just pull them down till it feels right and never get a problem,pull the bolts down over three stages not all down in one pull or it could cause problems ,say 20/40/then final setting