Top 20 1989 GMC K1500 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

No. You just need a pitman arm puller and the correct wrenches.

Check your fuses (ECM) and also recheck your wire leads to the coil. Your ICM (ignition control Module) may also be bad, it's located in your distributor under the rotor. You can have that tested also to make sure it's working 100%, there common to go bad from corrosion caused by condensation under the distributor cap.
Thank you for using Fixya and good luck.

6 before top dead center.

the valve body is stuck

Very possible you have a internal fault in the drive gear only.I would suggest that you remove it and have it rebuilt.We have a local company that rebuilds them for around 300 dollars.

remove bolts from firewall,using channel lock pliers,squeeze the plastic clips on the cable itself where it goes thru a bracket beside the throttle body,need to unsnap the cable end thats attached to the throttlebody,pull it forward,then pull the cable thru the bracket,install new cable in reverse order

This process requires special tools as well as refrigerent license. The oil type and quantity is critical. This may best be a job left to a shop, as the tools are pricey.

Note: The Timing Connector breaks out of the engine wiring harness conduit adjacent to the distributer. It is a single wire sealed connector that has a tan with black stripe lead.
Note: Timing specifications are listed on the Vehicle Emissions Control Information label under the hood. Always follow the Vehicle Emissions Control Information label procedures first before using the following procedure. PROCEDURE:
Set timing under the following conditions:

• Normal operating temperature.
• Air cleaner installed.
• A/C "OFF".
• Transmission in neutral.
• Disconnect SET TIMING connector (tan/black wire) located in the harness close to the distributor. DO NOT disconnect the 4 wire connector at the distributor.
• Connect timing light and adjust as necessary by loosening hold down bolt and rotating distributor.

Base Timing, with Manual and Automatic Transmissions: 00(TDC)

• Tighten hold down and recheck the timing.
• Stop the engine and connect SET TIMING connector.
• Clear ECM trouble code by disconnecting ECM power source.

I had this happen on my 88 k1500 turned out to be the 4x4 actuator...

Hello...

This one you'll like(smile). It is located up high behind the dash, toward the driver. It is on the drivers side and if you can remove the vent on the left side, as you are sitting in the drivers seat you should be able to see part or all it.

But to remove it, it is easier to go up from behind the dash instead of through the vent unless you have small hands. You may also find it easier to remove the instrument panel to get to it.

Good Luck... Let me know if I can help any more..

Check to see if the air supply to the other side is blocked or disconnected under the dash

that is a tricky one you have almost replaced everything. that is fuel injected if you dont have the right fuel pressure when you step on the gas it will fall on its face you need to take a fuel pressure reading and also it could be as simple as the fuel filter which is often over looked it could be cloged restricting the flow. also check the MAP sensor

Paul
www.carburetorexchange.com

did you check all your fuses 1st.
as well the brake pedal may not be making full contact with the switch anymore under the brake pedal is a switch ensure when pressed it touches and makes full contact ....also have you recently installed any thing to the vehicle ? if so recheck your work . if not check your fuses and ensure they are fully seated as well i think i said that but as well the wires run along the frame inside to the rear of the vehicle is there any signs of corrosion ?
just a few areas to check 1st

Have you chg. fuel filter? If so, best to do a fuel pressure test, sometimes( not always) when the pump gets warmed up they can loose a little pressure and thats all it takes just a few # under recamended p.s.i and the truck quits running, you may hear the pump run but its not putting out the correct pressure until it cools down and it starts working again, but after a while quit all together.

Sounds like fuel pressure. 44 is lean exhaust and 43 is knock sensor circuit. The engine can knock if it is lean. Try the filter first. Also check fuel pressure if you have a gauge.

you have a defective speed sensor or speed module behind cluster. I doubt the gauge it self is bad but could be. you need to pull the code. go to autozone they will do it for free.

If you have good fuel pressure, then i'ld lean towards the Ignition Control Module (ICM) it's around $40.00 at Auto Zone. They work when there still cold and when they heat up, they start to fail till they cool down again and eventually they fail totally. Auto Zone will have the step by step instruction to getting the job done. The ICM is under the rotor in the distributor, and the wires may also be corroded or broken. Inspect for any damages to the wire harness in the distributor before installing the new ICM. Good luck and hope this helps.

sound like a blocked catylitic convertor, remove down pipe on exhaust and drive to confirm, also check fuel preasure regulator and delivery preasure

Well sometimes is easier to get a new compressor for if you are up to it, you have to remove the pulley and clutch of the compressor to replace the cables.

Did you check the torque converter lock up swicht, go there.