20 Most Recent 1989 GMC K1500 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

There is one test I suggest you have run, it is called a fuel pressure leak down test. If the fuel pump pressure check valve fails to hold fuel pressure it causes hard starting. Any shop can run this test.

there is a in line fuel filter under the truck between the tank end motor. try replacing it first.its about 10 dollars. if thats not it, take the fuel line loose, before it goes into the filter and let it hang down freely, try starting the truck with the line off. if no fuel comes out of the line, the fuel pump is not working. this can be a bad pump, wiring problem or fuse. let me know, i will try to help. [email protected]

I would strongly recommend you download an instruction sheet from the company website which is msdPerformance.com.The basic answer is the pink wire from the key is connected to the B+ terminal on the coil.

if the starter is making a grinding noise when you turn the key, it's one of several possiblites. 1. Bad Starter. 2. Bad flywheel. 3. You need starter shims that fit between the starter and the motor. Most starters will bolt straight up but sometimes the gears get too close so you need to shim them apart.

You may have to replace the o-ring or gasket but first you would have to have the system evacuated as it illegal to let it go in the atmosphere. Then, replace the O-ring/gasket pull a vacuum on the system to remove any moisture inject the right amount of refrigerant oil and then charge the system with the proper amount of refrigerant. If you do not have the right equipment to do this job bring the vehicle to a professional where they can further assist you. It is important to remove the moisture from the system as it may cause performance issues and even damage later on.

The distributor does have to be removed and dis-assembled in order to replace the ignition pick-up coil/stator, and if the pick-up coil/stator is faulty then the distributor should be replaced because the distributor will come with a new pick-up coil/stator and the old distributor will have to be removed anyway and in the long run it will actually save money from not having to pay a mechanic to remove and dis-assemble the distributor to replace the pick-up coil/stator, however most of the time it is the ignition module inside of the distributor that is faulty.When the engine is at TDC (Top Dead Center) is the ignition rotor pointing to the #1 position on the distributor housing as described below?The engine should be set on TDC (Top Dead Center) with the distributor cap removed, and there is a mark or notch on the distributor housing that the rotor should be pointing to when the engine is on top dead center. (Look under the distributor cap and find where the number one terminal runs under the distributor cap, and where that position on the distributor cap corresponds with the distributor housing, and it should match up to a mark or a notch on the distributor housing)This static timing is all that matters and the computer will be able to control the timing as long as the ignition rotor is in that position when the engine is at top dead center.If the engine is at TDC and the ignition rotor does not point to the #1 mark on the distributor housing, then loosen the hold down bolt to the distributor and turn the distributor until the rotor is pointing to the #1 mark on the distributor and then tighten the distributor hold down bolt.

Not sure about yours, but on a lot of them you have to partially dissemble the distributor. Not that hard, just drive out the roll pin on the bottom gear with a punch, and slide off the gear. Now dist. shaft can be pulled out from the top. That's about it. Remove and replace pick-up coil.Good luck.

Check power lock wiring; some aftermark lock system there?

i would imagine you blew the bulbs so check them first before you go on the magic relay quest,