Top 10 1995 Ford Taurus Questions & Answers

Item Part Number Description 1 5310 Front Coil Spring 2 18124 Front Shock Absorber 3 3A130 Tie Rod End 4 1104 Wheel Hub 5 3K185 Front Wheel Knuckle 6 3078 Front Suspension Lower Arm 7 5482 Front Stabilizer Bar 8 5K484 Stabilizer Bar Link 9 N806899-S60 Bolt (4 Req'd) 10 5486 Stabilizer Bar Bracket 11 5484 Rack and Pinion Mounting Bracket Insulator (2 Req'd) (Position Slits Toward Front of Vehicle) 12 W520214-S60 Nut (2 Req'd) 13 N807144-S60 Nut (2 Req'd) 14 N803990-S60 Bolt (2 Req'd) 15 N806364-S60 Nut (2 Req'd) 16 N808466-S428 Nut (2 Req'd) 17 N808391-S100 Bolt (2 Req'd) 18 N807089-S101 Nut (2 Req'd) 19 W500746-S426 Bolt (2 Req'd) 20 W520214-S60 Nut (2 Req'd) 21 N804608-S1428 Nut (2 Req'd) 22 N804002-S100 Washer (2 Req'd) (Dished Side Up) 23 18183 Front Shock Absorber Mounting Bracket (2 Req'd) 24 3B455 Front Suspension Bearing and Seal (2 Req'd) 25 N811008-S100 Washer (2 Req'd)(Dished Side Up) 26 N803766-S60 Nut (6 Req'd) A — Install With Color Code at Bottom of Link — Green—RH Side, Red—LH Side B — Tighten to 30-40 Nm (22-29 Lb-Ft) C — Notches and Stamped "Front" Toward Front Of Vehicle D — Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 Lb-Ft) E — Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 Lb-Ft) F — Tighten to 98-132 Nm (72-97 Lb-Ft) G — Tighten to 68-92 Nm (50-67 Lb-Ft) H — Tighten to 53-72 Nm (39-53 Lb-Ft)

Ignition Lock Cylinder
Ford Taurus/Sable 1986-1995 Repair Information





REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Functional Lock


The following procedure applies to vehicles that have functional lock cylinders. Such cylinders either have a key available or known key numbers from which a key can be made.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
2. Turn the lock cylinder key to the RUN position.
   
3. Using a 1/8 in. (3mm) diameter wire pin or a small drift, depress the lock cylinder retaining pin through the access hole in the upper steering column shroud (under the ignition lock cylinder) while pulling out on the lock cylinder. Remove the lock cylinder from the column.
   

Using the key, turn the ignition lock cylinder to the RUN position, then depress the retaining pin using a wire pin or small drift

To install:

1. Install the lock cylinder by turning it to the RUN position and depressing the retaining pin. Insert the lock cylinder into its housing. Make sure the cylinder is fully seated and aligned in the interlocking washer before turning the key to the OFF position. This will permit the cylinder retaining pin to extend into the cylinder housing.
   
2. Rotate the lock cylinder using the lock cylinder key, to ensure correct mechanical operation in all positions.
   
3. Connect the negative battery cable.
   

Non-Functional Lock
The following procedure applies to vehicles in which the ignition lock is inoperative and the lock cylinder cannot be rotated due to a lost or broken key, unknown key number or a lock cylinder cap that has been damaged and/or broken to the extent that the lock cylinder cannot be rotated.

please give good rating if this helps


Section 04-01: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Front 1996 Taurus, Sable Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Stabilizer Bar Removal

1. Raise vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Section 00-02 .
   

1. Support vehicle with hoist or safety stands behind front sub-frame (5C145).
   

1. CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to tighten nut, or bearing and seal damage will result. Install nut using hex hold feature to prevent the stud from rotating.
   Remove and discard nuts retaining stabilizer bar link (5K484) assembly to front stabilizer bar (5482) and front shock absorber (18124) with an 8 mm closed-end wrench and an 18 mm open-end wrench.
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove nuts retaining steering gear (3504) to front sub-frame, and move steering gear off the front sub-frame.
   

1. With another set of support safety stands under front sub-frame, remove two rear subframe retaining bolts. Lower rear of the front sub-frame to obtain access to stabilizer bar brackets (5486).
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove front stabilizer bar U-bracket bolts and replacestabilizer bar brackets and/or front stabilizer bar as required. Discard lower suspension arm stabilizer bar insulator (5493) and bolts.
   

Installation

1. Clean front stabilizer bar to remove dirt and contamination in area of stabilizer bar insulator installation position.
   

1. Lubricate inside diameter of new lower suspension arm stabilizer bar insulator with Rubber Suspension Insulator Lube E25Y-19553-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESF-M99B112-A. Do not use any mineral or petroleum based lubricants as they will deteriorate the rubber lower suspension arm stabilizer bar insulators.
   

1. Install new lower suspension arm stabilizer bar insulators onto front stabilizer bar and position them in approximate location.
   

1. Install stabilizer bar bracket on front sub-frames and install new bolts. Tighten to 30-40 Nm (22-29 lb-ft).
   

1. Raise front sub-frame and install new front sub-frame-to-body retaining bolts. Position steering gear onto front sub-frame and install retaining nuts. Tighten to 115-135 Nm (85-99 lb-ft).
   

1. CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to tighten nut, or bearing and seal damage will result. Install nut using hex hold feature to prevent the stud from rotating.
   Install stabilizer bar link to front shock absorber and to front stabilizer bar, making sure that the stabilizer bar link is properly positioned. The letters "Top LH" and "Top RH" are moulded into the stabilizer bar link for correct assembly to the front shock absorber strut.
   

1. Install new nuts and secure stabilizer bar link assembly to front stabilizer bar and front shock absorber. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft) at front shock absorber strut and 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft) at front stabilizer bar.
   

1. Remove safety stands.
   

1. Lower vehicle.
   

this is due to low oil pressure. i would do an oil change and get an oil filter from the dealer(actually you should be able to get motorcraft filters at any parts store) but dont use fram. up grade your oil to the next heavier weight( 10w 30 go to 10w 40) and see if this make a difference. if no difference is noticed the next diagnostic step is to see your technician and have himperform whats called a wet oil test. by this i mean that the pressure sesnor is only taking pressure and converting it into an electrical signal which if the sensor is bad..... so he takes out the sensor and replaces it with an actual gauge to read pressures. this is the most acurate way to test. from there he will be able to advise you on the next step of repair.

Hello , fuel pump relay location is in the relay box by the radiator. The fuel psi regulator is on the fuel rail itself. The regulator looks like a small disk about 1.5inchs in dia. It will have a vacuum line running to it.

Quinn

The recommended fill point will be 4 1/2 Quart. This includes the filter, as well. Fill to 4 1/2 Quarts. No more, or less. Valvoline SynPower Full Synthetic 5W-20 Motor Oil is the only oil to run is this particular vehicle. If you run a heavier oil in this engine, you risk clogging the head oil ports, and the timing chain tensioner oil channels, as well. This will induce massive repairs down the road.

Are you referring to a transmission shift solenoid, or the shifter lockout solenoid? The shift solenoids, that control the shifting of the transmission, are located internally in the trans, specifically in the valve body. The shifter lockout solenoid, which is the solenoid that prevents you from shifting out of park, without depressing the brake pedal, is located in the shifter assembly itself, below the center console.

The transmission solenoids are located just inside the fluid pan. Here is some info for replacing them. It is acually pretty easy.

I own a 2002 '''Ford '''Focus with automatic '''transmission. The symptoms are that the '''transmission disengages (slips out of gear) when it goes into 3rd gear. When the car slows down to 20 miles an hour or so (or when you stop) it re-engages. You can drive the car in 1st or 2nd gear generally. The '''transmission light comes on. There are no noises associated with this problem. If you have this problem then it's probably the "A" '''Solenoid that needs to be replaced. Here's how you make sure that's the case and fix it for $50.

1. You need to pull the diagnostic computer codes. '''Ford will pull them for you for $100. But, you can do it for free by going to AutoZone. They have a loaner computer diagnostic code puller. If you bring the car they'll just do it for you in the parking lot. If you want to borrow the tool then they will want a $200 security deposit. I recommend that you bring the car to them if you it's close. Also, there are lots of small shops that will pull the code for you for free. There's no reason to pay a "diagnostic fee" to pull the computer repair code. This code will tell you Exactly which '''solenoid to replace. It's typically the "A" '''solenoid, though.

2. Once you get the code you need to know which '''solenoid to replace.

3. It's fairly easy to replace the '''solenoid. You need a 5/16 socket and rachet and a tube of Gray RTV Gasket Maker (you can get it at any auto parts store).

4. You need to buy the '''solenoid. I only found it at '''Ford. For some reason when I told 3 different parts managers I wanted the "A" '''solenoid (which is how it's described in every '''Ford '''transmission diagram and on the computer code) they didn't know which one it was. There are 6
5. For the repair you need to raise the front of the car. I used ramps, but make sure it's secure. The transaxle ('''transmission) is in the front right, as you look at the car. The bottom is a pan, like an oil pan, with about 20 bolts holding it on. They're 5/16th's. There's '''transmission fluid in the pan, but no "drain bolt". So, have a pan ready to catch the fluid once the '''transmission pan comes loose. Be careful. '''Transmission fluid is hot, it will make a mess. And, the pan has a silicone gasket seal around it. So, once you get the bolts off/loose you will probably need to work the pan loose. Don't bend it. (Make sure you get all the bolts off, it's easy to miss one.) I left one bolt on the front so I could ease the pan loose from the '''transmission on the back and let the fluid run into a pan. Then I removed the pan.

6. You will see SIX '''solenoids in the '''transmission. You can't miss them. Each one has a different colored wire going to it. The A '''Solenoid has a white wire going to it, it's a small '''solenoid in the center on the right. It's held in place by one bolt (that's also 5/16ths). Unplug the wire, remove the bolt and remove the '''solenoid. Put the new '''solenoid in.

7. Carefully and completely scrape all the old gasket off the '''transmission surface the the edge of the fluid pan. Clean it. Then apply the new gasket (from the tube) onto the edge of the pan. It is VERY IMPORTANT that you just apply a thin bead of gasket compound. Don't use too much or the excess will get into your '''transmission and cause a problem.

8. Replace the pan. Let the gasket set according to the instructions on the tube - READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. And refill the '''transmission with '''transmission fluid. I was told to use the same fluid I took out, by someone I trust. You use a funnel and refill it through the '''transmission dipstick tube (front, right of the engine, yellow handle). Make sure you put it in the right place. Fill it slowly. Then run the engine and check the fluid. Add until it reads correctly on the dipstick. You check '''transmission fluid with the car running and the fluid hot.

9.

1995 was a change-over year for OBD systems.
If the OBD2 plug is not under the steering column, the OBD1 plugs are under the hood near one of the strut towers.

Usually the antenna is operated by a spool and a reel of stuff like white nylon or plastic "wire".
When you push or turn the switch or when you turn on the radio, however the antenna is supposed to go up, the spool will turn in the direction to extend the string and push the antenna up.
When you turn off the radio, or move the switch to "retract", the spool will turn and wind up the string and pull the antenna down. These strings often break, usually they only last about 5 years.
The motor you seek is inside the fender or the trunk, as the case may be, and it is hidden behind the inner fender shield or in the trunk, behind the inner trunk panel.
The motor is hidden to prevent snow, ice, water, and dirt from ruining it.
Be blessed.

It's most likely a short in the wiring somewhere. When the transmission is put in reverse, it'll cause the engine to shift, which could cause strain on the wiring harness and cause the field wire to the alternator to lose connection.