Top 10 2000 Volkswagen Jetta TDI Questions & Answers

from what is was told locally is that it would be around $800 - $1000 and can take just around a full day to do. it is not a quick job, so labor costs can be high and the price of parts play a big factor in it just because it is a vw.

I don't have the solution but a possible help in diagnosing.  If you remove the water temperature sensor connector from the sensor, the glow plug light should stay on when you go to start the car.  Try leaving it on for 15 seconds and then start the car.  If it starts right away, it is your sensor.  If it doesn't, the good luck.  
The sensor is located on the right side of the engine near the top, at the back.  It is in the coolant fitting directly behind the hose from the rad, just left of the thermostat.  Be careful to disconnect the wires, and not remove the sensor, or you will loose a lot of coolant.  The sensor is held in by a separate plastic clip, and the harness just has a little built in clip on the side.  Hope you have small hands...

the no data error can be contributed to a bad interface cable or the scaqn tool was configured wrong and therfore could not connect to the ecm. I would recommend having a scan done again by a certiefied volkswagon tech chances are the mechanics used the wrong adapter cable or reader card. your smog problem could be that your evap canister is clogged therfore gives a bad reading.unfortunately you have to have a scan done but try an independant small shop that delas exclusively with foreign cars such as porche andd mercedez. the will have the correct scan tool and will be much cheaper than a dealership. your cost should be no more than 50 dollars US ... please rate this. thanks

Never ever bring a jetta to a volkwagen dealer. They will bend you over and rape you.

All you have to do is remove the top plug with a hex wrench.

For VW TDI: Fault code P1550 = "Charge Pressure Deviation"
You must check up all vacuum hoses, the pressure charge air line (pressure hoses, spring-type clips, charge air cooler), the vacuum reservoir and also all solenoid control valves.
You must try follows if you are able to do this:
1. Engine stopped and ignition switch off. Check all pneumatic connections and hoses between turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control, boost-pressure control solenoid valve, vacuum reservoir, EGR control solenoid valve, intake-manifold flap solenoid valve, EGR valve with throttle - part of intake manifold. Also the vacuum connection between tandem pump and brake booster. If you find something wrong replace parts. If not go to step 2.
2. Extract the hose of the turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control part of turbocharger. Instead of the original hose you must place another 1 meter long hose with the same inside diameter, and then you check to inspire yourself the air from the other one extremity of this hose. The mechanical connecting rod of the turbocharger actuator must have a smooth and whole motion. If you can do that with your mouth, then you must replace the boost-pressure control solenoid valve. If you can not reach this with your mouth, then you go to step 3.
3. This is the most difficult work. The problem is that the soot particles deposits inside the turbocharger plugging the variable nozzle geometry mechanism = adjustable vanes of the turbine. If the turbocharger actuator is not able to adjust the turbine vanes the charge air pressure increase too much and ECU (engine control unit) go in "limp mode" = engine protection software. As a result the "limp mode" engine still running until you turn the engine off (ignition switch off) and back on when the "limp mode" is deactivated.
4. You must be able to extract the turbo from the engine and then to disassemble the turbocharger, clean inside adjustable vanes mechanism and refit all.
It is some work to do here, but after that you will be full satisfied!

I fixed mine!! First check your ebrake switch by starting your vw and putting the ebrake on. If your daytime running lights stay on when the ebrake is engaged, its NOT the switch. Stay with me here. Turn vw off and pull fuse number 5. Mine was blown, but the legend only shows a pic of a book with an exclamation point. Meaning the book will tell you what it is, BUT IT DOESN'T . I replaced the 7.5 amp fuse and voila, victory. If it is not number 5, pull every fuse one at a time and inspect them closely. Do not assume, check each one. That is how I found mine after I bought and replaced the $10 switch. Running lights stay on because the switch is not being acknowledged, not because it is bad. I searched every forum I could find on this and there were no answers to this problem anywhere. So I am posting so there is an answer out there. What put me on the right track was the running lights staying on when the ebrake was engaged after I put in the new switch.

I have had this same issue ever since I purchased the car new in 2000. It seems to be a very intermittent issue, but I found that when it occurred, it was typically damp and between 40 and 50F.

In any case, the dealer was not able to diagnose and fix the problem. I did get them to give me a 4 digit pass code for the immobilizer. This pass code is entered by using the clock adjust knob and the odometer reset button. Once the pass code is entered, the car will start. However, this is not a permanent fix as you may need to enter the pass code again should the immobilizer activate.

Sometimes the Jetta will start after 5-6 trys when the immobilizer is activated, but if I crank anything past 10, I usually resort to the pass code.

I am searching today for solutions since I have needed to use the pass code twice in the last 4 times that I have neede to start the car, and the weather is perfect.

take your car key an put it in the trunk an turn it to the left an your alarm should go off an will disable the alarm.. mercedes benz are the same way

Heres a belt routing diagram for a 2000 vw jetta tdi, hope this is helpful, good luck.

I HAVE THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM! DID YOU FIX IT?