20 Most Recent 1997 Volkswagen Jetta - Page 7 Questions & Answers

replace material after removing old. cement with 77 contact cement. david

work air out of lines by cracking lines. crank until you hear it try to start, tighten lines and crank until it starts.

Need more info. Is it an aftermarket alarm? What kind of car? If it is an aftermarket alarm, it is possible that the wiring to the alarm module could be configured wrong, making it think that someone is hot-wiring the vehicle. Or, it could be that the wires to the alarm are chaffed, and the power from the alarm is shorting to the door lock controls. If neither of those are an issue, then it could also be the settings on the alarm module itself (many aftermarket alarms are pre-programmed to lock the doors, as soon as the transmission gear selector is placed in "Drive", and if the wires are chaffed, shorted, or improperly connected, it could be that it's seeing the door pin switch, as that trans selector input). In any case, this sounds like an electrical problem for a skilled automotive electrical technician, because many of the vehicles panels may have to be removed, so that the wiring can be exposed & inspected. Without more details, I can only post a "professional opinion", rather than a "solution". I hope this helps.

TRANNY PROB. BEST IF TAKEN TO A TRANNY SHOP.

idle control sensor or as they say throttle position sensor auto parts store 10-15dollars 5 minutes 2 bolts off 2 bolts on you will find this on the throttle body housing

It is most likely a collapsed heater hose or clogged heater core. If you aren't mechanically inclined, take it to a reputable mechanic and have the cooling system flushed and the heater core back flushed and all the hoses checked for separation.
It could also be a thermostat stuck in the open position. Thus, the engine is never given the chance to get to operating temperature. If this is the case, the temperature gauge will stay on or near the "C".
I hope this helps. Good luck.

radio has to be factory radio because factory radio is programmed to vechicle PCM and theft security system any kind radio wont work with your vechicle has to be factory model radio has to be reprogram.

try to change your fuel filter . if that not working cpould be your ingnition system is malfunction

I go to a junk yard and purchase a set of locks and keys for all the doors and replace the cylinders with the new purchases. Now make copies of your new key. Some dealerships have records of your car or maybe you have a stamped piece of metal or documents with key code. The code once found in the dealership book gives the key codes so that they can punch another key up with a machine they have.

Does the speedometer work?

engine powerloss is complex on all engines. (gas or Diesel?)but comes down to just 3, in the macro. (i guess at GAS)Total loss of electric power to the EFI. system. this will be obvious. (lamps die, etc) on USA cars a stalled enginethe CEL lamp in the cluster glows , if not , you lost POWER. (electric ) and the other lights are dead too. obvious.1: bad engine (lost compression 1 or all cyl)2: bad spark, ever to a tuneup or ever skip the vital 60kmile? tune?3: bad fuelingeasy as 1 ,2,3, huh and in the correct order, (ASE day 1)there is a simple test for each of the 3, using simple inexpensve tool, if up for that , say so. or if not, go to any ASE mechanic,he has the skills and the tools.if motivated, (few are) the facts are all here.alldata dot com, its all there. and the tests.so is the VW FSM.these documents dont make you a mech, the only show the mechwhat is UNIQUE this car, LOTS. and some very bad pit falls.

rev limiter

There could be a YouTube video showing how to do this. If the clutch cylinder is accessible from the outside of the transmission, there will be a bleeder valve. It may have been designed as a tube leading to the outside. Put a piece of clear plastic tubing over the bleeder valve nipple and make sure the master clutch cylinder is filled with recommended brake fluid. Two people will be necessary to push the clutch pedal slowiy to the floor with the valve opened a quarter turn. Watch the fluid being forced out through the tubing. It should come out without any entrapped bubbles. Close the bleeder valve before releasing the pedal so that fluid is drawn into the line. Repeated these two steps until no bubbles are seen in the tubing and at each cycle, make sure the level of brake fluid in the master valve stays full.

Not necessarily, but it would probably run like garbage...if it runs at all. Did someone replace your timing belt recently? If it was a pro, take it back and ask them to check the timing. If it can\'t be brought into spec, have them redo the belt installation.

probly will be the syncronizers in transmission

No one can help on a car with 150,000 milesYou need about $500.00 worth of testing, to see if is worth keeping the motor mechanicallyPeople get rid of vehicles for a reason & your nottold why.Start with a cylinder contribution test, followed bya cylinder leak down testIf the valves are no good,rebuild the entire motor

Is the alternator not charging the battery, or is something draining power overnight ?