20 Most Recent 1992 Volkswagen Cabriolet - Page 5 Questions & Answers

On the inside trim, you can remove screws (these screws may be covered by filler pieces or may be visible, or they may require you pry a plastic piece off that covers the screws) that are by the door handle, arm rest, under door and side of door and then gently pull back on the panel as there will also be retaining clips attached and you don't want to break them. You'll need to lift the door panel upwards in order to get it off the window ledge. Then you'll need to manipulate the panel and disconnect the door handle linkage from the door handle and disconnect any other wiring that may be attached to the door.

sounds like a bad earth or loose wiring,you may need an auto electrician to look at it,if its a carrio has the dash got wet at any stage as it may be corrosion

Are you sure that it is not a bad slave cylinder?

There should be two bolts one at the pivot point other at the tension point might be rusted in positing. Take a piece of wood and try to crack it loose or a rubber hammer to get it that extra force.

As for the other belts there should be a third pully just for tension for the ac and for the power steering just loosing the pivot bolt and the tension bolt and it all should come loose

Idle Air Control value is most likely the problem.

Your vehicle needs servicing. Clutch plates might have worn out. Go to the nearest service station to enjoy the joy ride again.

Did you have the alternator check? Low voltage will cause light dimming.

The ISV (Idle Stablizer Valve) could be clogged or just not working. It's a cylinder with 2 vacuum lines and electrical connector going to it. Just above the valve cover and below the intake manifold. Best check for that is turn the key on engine off and the ISV should buzz. If it is buzzing remove it and clean it with some throttle body cleaner or brake clean. Reinstall and check for idle concerns. Have to be quick to see if it buzzes though. Better to have someone turn the key for ya while you check the valve. If it doesnt buzz replace it. Also check the switched on the throttle body. See if any of the wires are broken.

THEY ALL HAVE RELAYS THAT MAKE THEM WORK SO THE FIRST THING TO CHECK IS THE FUSE BOX UNDER THE LEFT SIDE OF THE DASH FOR EVIDENCE OF WATER LEAKING ON IT

REMOVE THE ACCESS PLATE IN THE FLOOR , THEN THE RING THAT HOLDS THE SENDING UNIT, THE UNIT & REPLACE THE PUMP ON THE UNIT & REVERSE THE PROCEDURE

The vibration at that high rpm is most likely coming from the torque convertor and if a manual transmission , then clutch issues.

sounds like it could be your temp. sensor or throttle position sensor.

Plugs, wires, cap and rotor should be replaced. Ignition timing should be checked with a timing light. Change fuel and air filters. Change oil and filter (I like to use synthetic oil... Waaaay better). Check belt(s) for cracks or excessive slack. Inspect coolant level and color (it should be a nice bright green). Inspect brake fluid level and color (it should NOT be black, indicating the need for a brake system flush) If the car has more than 60,000 miles it's a good idea to replace the timing belt. (Although you should not attempt this yourself unless you are fairly mechanically inclined and have the Bentley manual)...Hope this helps...;-)

I would start with a tune up. ( plugs , wires fuel filter)
Then if this does not work , I would have the fuel pump check and the Idle air control checked.
IF there is a check engine light coming on , The throttle position sensor is most likely the cause
of failure . The throttle position sensor is part of the throttle body .
The throttle body is a very expensive repair.
Some time you can get away with a good cleaning of the throttle body.

Did you align the second lower cam that drives the oil pump and sitributer?  There is a dot on the cam that needs to align with the notch on the main pully of the crankshaft.   An easy quick test is to rotate the engine to TDC and take the distributer cap off.  It should be pointing in roughly the 2 o'clock position for cylinder 1

The emergency flasher switch contains the relay for the turn signals as well. I work for an Audi dealer. This has been the problem since day one. If both signals don't work, it's the relay. You'll need to buy a new emergency flasher switch. Head to a dealer. They will know exactly what it is. It's not a very expensive part either.

check online- www.autohausaz.com, I get alot of hard to find parts through there, or rockauto.com.

HAVE YOU CHECKED YOUR FRONT END SUSPENSION AND ALSO WHEN BRAKING AND PULLS TO THE RIGHT IT MIGHT BE A CALIPER AND OR DISC ROTORS. HAVE THEM CHECKED AT A LOCAL SHOP THAT DOES LATHE WORK.

Before doing anything else crank the engine to see which way it turns counterclockwise or clockwise.With the distributor cap removed. look for and locate the number one spark plug wire. If the engine turns clockwise you will have to install the wires in firing order clockwise.

After removing the number one spark plug. Turn the motor manually by hand until you can see that the piston is at the top. Check by inserting a rubber or platic straw that it is at the top. With both intake and outtake valves pressed down. you have to remove the valve cover for that. insert the distributor so that the rotor points to the number one spark plug. replace the cap and replace the wires as explianed. Clockwise or counter clockwise.

Sounds like the oil pump may be marginal... Hence you're driving along with minimal lubrication, the metal-on-metal contact getting more severe as the engine overheats. then, just before seize-o-matic, you're hearing metal-to-metal contact.

I'd have this addressed post-haste.