2001 Mazda Pickup Regular Cab - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

go to the dealer as there are air bag recalls out it could be a sensor or wiring problem

hello, most vehicles have safety devices in place,esp potentially hazardous components,such as air con.you do need to get to an a/c workshop,and at least have it diagnosed accurately,as no point keep on guessing where the likely problem is,as either of 2 things will take place,you will end up in the poor house,after wasting valuable resources,or often find that the guy on the next block 'KNOWS' better than we do buddy,after being fleeced yet again,whilst you go from 1 repair shop to the next,all the time that you are instructing these 'PROFESSIONALS' as to what they need to carry out,following your misguided gut feeling's.the a/c relay will not allow the compressor to operate because there could be a multitude of problems underlying the surface.it could be that your a/c gas has almost disappeared,as most vehicle,however new all lose a small amount over a period of time,but especially through infrequent usage.it could be that your receiver dryer has excessive moisture,or maybe the low,or high pressure a/c sensors are defective,or anything else from literally A-Z,as modern vehicles often have very sophisticated temperature controls in place,and need trained personnel to carry out effective repair work,in safety.hope that has helped, cheers.

The inertia switch is on drivers side behind kick panel (near door hinges ) there is access hole for resetting.

On drivers side behind kick panel (near door hinges) but panel has access hole for resetting.

Please I need to known the right marks for the timing belt

check all your fuses If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_00678fd4800d19c5

Try inserting the key to the on position the wait over ten minutes it should start

Inspect/Replace If it is necessary to remove the heater assembly, the cooling system must be drained before removing the heater core.
When a heater core leaks, a new heater core is installed or the old one repaired.
Heater Housing

• The heater housing is usually under the dash and must be removed to gain access to the heater core.
• Procedures for replacing the heater core vary with the year, make, and model of car. It threfore necessary to consult the manufacturer's repair manuals for the proper procedure for replacement.

The heater housing is disassembled to get to the heater core. Heater Core

• Remove the access panels(s) or the split heater/air conditioning case to gain acess to the heater core.
• Remove the heater coolant hoses.
• Remove the cable and/or vacuum control lines (if equipped).
• Remove the heater core securing brackets and/or clamps.
• Lift the core from the case. Do not use force. Take care not to damage the fins of the heater core when removing.
• To reinstall the heater core, reverse the removal steps.

When the heater core leaks and must be repaired or replaced, it is a very difficult and time-consuming job primarily because of the core's location deep within the firewall of the car. For this reason always leak test a replacement heater core before installation.

you don't electronic distributerless ignition make sure you did not damage crankshaft sensor or sensor ring on harmonic balancer, or set up timming belt wrong

it's probably coming from the weep hole in the water pump. which means the pump will need to be replaced.

Ignition timing should be set to 6 deg BTDC, this is done with a timing light. Connect the power leads of you're timing light to the battery and put the pickup clamp over #1 plug wire. Disconnect the vacuum line on the vacuum advance and plug the line so it does not create a vacuum leak. Start the engine and shine the light on the crank pulley to see the timing mark. It should be pointed at 6 deg BTDC.

this is for a 1994 ask auto parts store if its the same for a 2001

Im not quit clear on what your saying. Bolth of your doors will not open and are binding at the bottoms of the jambs The frame or uinabody frame must be bent. This is not normal at all its not like you have a damaged lock mechanisem and one door is hanging up. Your looking for an answer the olny other thing i can think of is the hinge pins and bushings may be worn out if you used them a real lot over the years try lifting up on the doors from the bottom with a flat slide bar as you pull on the handle use leverage once you get one open see how much up and down movement is in the hinge assembly it should be tight but with the door open all the way if it moves a 1/2 inch or more you need to replace the hinge pins and bushings thats up and down movement

• If it's simply the car door lock that's frozen, try heating your car key with a lighter and inserting it into the lock. The heat from the metal may be enough to thaw the ice and allow you to unlock it. To ensure that the lock will not freeze again, spray it with WD-40.
  
  
• If the entire door is frozen, carefully chip the ice away from the edges with a scraper. Be careful not to scratch the paint of the car. If you cannot chip the ice away, try pouring some windshield washer fluid on the icy areas; windshield washer fluid contains alcohol and this may help melt the ice.
  
  
• Use a blow dryer set on high to melt the surrounding ice.
  
  
• The best way to open a frozen car door and prevent future frustration is to purchase de-icer. Many good brands are available at hardware and auto shops - just be sure the solvent displaces moisture and leaves behind a lubricant. If the lock itself is frozen, spray the product directly into the key hole, wait five seconds and then put in your key and try to turn it. Most of these products have straws that help direct the product out of the can and into small areas, making the de-icing process easy.
  
  Once the door is open, consider spraying the de-icer along the hinges of the door to keep other parts from freezing. Keep the de-icer in your home or garage where you can easily find it. Do not keep it in your vehicle. Having de-icer in your frozen vehicle won't do you much good.

2001 Mazda B3000 DS Regular Cab 3.0 liter OHV V-6



Hope this helps (remember to rate and comment this).

Hello there 2001 Mazda B3000 DS Cab Plus 2WD
3.0 liter OHV V-6

I would suggest you change the trans lube and add a bottle of friction modifier to the lube, this should cure the issue based on my experience at the ford dealer i work at.

I actually did this just last night. It is somewhat complicated to explain, yet easy to do. The headlight assembly is well secured, that's for sure. I failed to take pictures, so I will do my best to put it all in words. The bumper cover will need to be removed to gain access. To start there are plastic trim fasteners that expand when the plastic screw is driven into them (Like what you would use in sheetrock). There are 3ea in each fender-well that attach in the forward portion securing the bumper cover. Remove these by backing out the screw and pulling out the stud. If the screws do not come out, you can use a flat prying tool of sorts to pull them thru the layers. There are 2ea tricky ones that are between the bumper cover and the fender. The easiest way to get them out is to slip a flat prying tool between the fender and the bumper. Now for the bottom of the bumper cover. There are 2ea more of the plastic fasteners under the lower portion of the grill of the bumper cover that will also need removal. Next are a series of 10MM bolts that will need to be removed from the under side of the bumper. If I recall correctly there are 9ea of them to be removed. Now for the top of the cover, there are 2ea 10 MM bolts to be removed. The bumper cover should be ready for removal. It is best to have some one aid so that the cover does not fall and get scuffed. Slide the cover FWD from each side, there are receptors that they fit into. If you have fog lights and an air temp gauge, they will need to be unplugged after the cover is pulled away. Now you have access to the light assembly. On the headlight assembly there is a bolt and a nut on the top that get removed, a bolt on the side of the fender and a bolt almost directly below the main bean portion (recessed a little). To put it all back together is relatively simple now that you know what makes it tick. Hope that this helps!

p1131 ho2s bank1 sensor1 signal below .45v which means your air/fuel ratio is running to lean
p0125 insufficient coolant temp. for closed loop fuel control which may be low coolant level, a bad thermostat or a bad ect sensor.
Hope this helps let me know if you need anything else

there is a push key at the left side of the stering for od2wd push it it will fixt your problem

Hi James, please could you tell me the make and model of your car,it will make it more easy for me to pin point this trouble for you.
George.