20 Most Recent 1994 Mazda MX-3 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

If you have to ask how to disassemble a motor, then you would clearly lack the skill required to repair or rebuild it. Everyone has to learn sometime but you could cause more harm than good and cost yourself a substantial amount of money and destroy your motor if you don't know what you're doing. If you wish to learn however I'd suggest first reading the haynes or chilton's service manual for your vehicle.

Find and rplace the Ignition switch, electrical part, not where you put the key in. May be located in lower part of steering column.

Check for crossed spark plug wires if it's backfiring.

No..find the belt tensioner and pull towards the front of the motor to release the tension on the belt

This is an internal transmission issue, the only fix is to have the transmission repaired or replaced

Yes, it is a 15" wheel

no brakes usually means one or two things a leak (in a hose, line,wheel cylinder or caliper) or a bad master cylinder if its full of fluid and doesnt spray out under the car its probly not a leak a way to test the master cylinder is to pinch off all the rubber hoses at the same time and see if the brake pedal is rock hard if it still sinks to the floor youve got a bad master cylinder the hoses will be close to the wheels within a few feet at least make sure you dont pinch the hoses too tight because you can damage them only compress them in half just to where the vise grips are tight cheking the wheel cyliders will require removal of the wheel brake drum (which can be difficult spray wd 40 or similar on the center and through the luggnut holes and smack around the edge with a hammer to break loose you might have to pry a little) amd pulling back the rubber boots on the cylinder if fluid comes out its bad even a little is enough hope this helps post more if no help good luck

Yes there is a fuse to protect the A/C circuit.

It's protecting the 12V DC clutch system,

When the A/C clutch shorting out (when HOT). It will blow this fuse.

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The A/C clutch is an electromagnet operated.

Most A/C clutch last between 6-15 years. When the compressor is aged. It generate more heat and when the magnet wire melt then the clutch short out and pop the fuse.

I recommend you change the whole unit.

First, check the horn fuse. If it is blown you won't be able to shift out of park. Next, check the brake light switch with a multimeter and replace it if you find it not working. The last thing to look at is the key and the ignition. Hit the key a few times with a small hammer while it is in the ignition and then with the other hand release the stuck shifter

Firing order 1-2-3-4-5-6 TIMING 10 Degrees

Firing order 1-3-4-2 . TIMING 10 Degrees

theres only two places a adjustment would be the easest way is to lift your handbrake three clicks either under the handle you will see a nut on a threaded bolt turn the nut in until the slack makes tighten hard dont over tighten push button drop handle back down now if the adjustment nut is not under the handle under the car you will see your rear cables going into a single cable all three joined by a adjustment bolt with nut hold with pliers three clicks up on handle turn nut in till slack is gone drop handle back down

If there is nothing showing it may be a problem with the temperature sending unit. There are two sensors usually. One that tells the computer or PCM the temperature and one that sends the temparature to your indicator inside the vehicle.

The immobilizer essentially is a relay they spliced in series between the ignition lock and starter solenoid. All you have to do is jumper these 2 wires back together again. You can test wich wire to the immobilizer is from the ignition by watching a test light probed to the contacts when someone cranks the engine. The solenid wire is easier to trace because you can follow it from the starter.

Start by replacing your spark plug wires, then check your ignition coil or distributor and rotor. Also, it may be time for some new spark plugs. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

First thing I'd do is check if everything was connected, vacuum lines, fuel lines, connectors, etc. If all good, check the fuses and fuel pump relay. My guess would be the vac line to the fuel pressure regulator.

1. Depressurize and drain the cooling system. 2. Loosen the alterantor adjustment and remove the belt.
3. Remove the water pump pulley.
4. Remove all the timing belt covers.
5. Loosen the timing (camshaft) belt tensioner and slip the timing belt off the camshaft toothed pulley (ensure you do not move the positon of the camshaft)
6. Unbolt the lower radiator hose fitting and heater retrun pipe.
7. Unbolt the waterpump from the block (5 bolts).
8. Remove all traces of the old gasket before mounting the new pump (Permatex spray on gasket remover works well).
9. Install the new pump and reassemble in reverse order to above.

As for the adaptor you need, you will have to find a Snap-on dealer or go to >http://www.iequus.com/news/news.php?id=22< and order one. Your problem can be a coolant sensor or coolant thermostat not opening up enough. Ok heres the bad news, could be  a blown head gasket, do you loose coolant? . 

even though it won't start it should still be possible to retrieve fault codes. On an OBDII car your going to have to have a code reader tool, so either have your shop scan it or buy a scan tool. Post up your codes and someone should be able to helkp you from there

On almost all serpentine belt systems there is a tensioner pulley that most usually has a 3/8 drive square hole to use a ratchet or breaker bar. Insert, pull and belt comes off..

Justa short pry bar. get the tip of the bar behind the end of the joint.and "pop" it out.