Top 20 1993 Mazda MX-3 Questions & Answers

You have a shorted out wire somewhere. Any damage lately or accessories fitted?

Does it stall out because the engine is idling slow? Have you scanned the system for codes?

Bad coil or ignition module? Bad crank or cam sensor?

if you have spark to the cap but not out of the cap you have 2 problems. the cap and the rotor...

join a real mazda forum and ask them, many cars you can not. the newer the car, the more true that becomes. did you post a ATV to a car forum? a quadzilla Mazda? please post to ATV forum. for best play.

best method is to use a impact gun for this job . The nut tension will be up near 95 ft/lbs and it is difficult to hold the crank when you use a breaker bar. Other wise remove the starter and place a bar in the ring gear teeth.. Easier to get a impact gun.

Sound like the clutch needs to be replaced.

What is the idle speed? Are you sure the belt is routed correctly?

There are wiring diagrams online that can explain the wiring that is in a 1993 Mazda but the visual is important to understanding how to do this.----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Launch CResetter Oil Lamp Reset Tool

Take whole. Coverings /plastics it off from under the hand brake. To ash tray. Then if there is no gasket spacer plate get one and or use big washes on bolt mountings , make sure they are tight yep

what is the code please

Hi Lee and Chuck, Seems you have a serious short circuit in your vehicle. The fact that when the vehicle stands it will need to be jump started would seem to confirm the same. The power seems to be draining somewhere! The fuses which blow will give an indication of which circuit is shorting. If your brother wired in a music system or radio, disconnect it and then see if the fuses still blow? If they stay fine you know where to start. The music system is connected to the lights for night illumination of the controls. It may be that the earth connection has been mixed up with a power cable? If the vehicle runs fine during the day and does not give problems when restarting, it would be doubtful that there is damage to the alternator. You can check it fairly easily by connecting a test meter to each of the terminals. Start the vehicle and if while cranking the voltage drops below 8 volts, get the battery replaced. If it remains at about ten during starting that's fine. Measure the battery voltage before starting and confirm 12 volts. Once started the voltage should be at about 13 volts if the alternator is charging and when the horn is pressed and the wipers turned on together with the heated window, the voltage should climb to about 13 and a half volts. If the voltage remains unchanged or drops the alternator is damaged. Usually the head lights would be turned on to carry out this simple test but as the fuses blow you can do that when you've found the short circuit. Good luck and best regards John

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battery shorted out its no good need new one

The engine or transaxle has to come out to access it.

have you cleaned air filter, checked spark plugs. always look at the small things first, ask your garage for a blow by test to see if you have compression problems could also be head gasket any timing issue would result in a very rough idle.

the engine refuse to start and it is smoking as well

you can get that diagram from the dealer just ask the guys in the parts dept for a print out,, to locate a loose or broken vacuum line, you can spray some carb cleaner in the areas that you think may have a bad line, the RPM's will jump up when the cleaner is sucked into the bad line

keep you fluid level above 3/4 full- assuming you have a hydrolic clutch- unhook negitve battery cable remove rubber cap from bleeder screw on the release cylinder.place place a bleeder tube over the end of the bleeder screw.sumerge other end in a jar thats half full of hydrolic brake fluid.slowly pump the clutch pedal fully and let return slowly several times requires two people while pressing clutch to the floor lossen bleeder untill fluid comes out then close keep repeating this while keeping an eye on your bleeder tube jar as soon as you see no more bubbles close the bleeder screw and again make sure to keep an eye on resivor to remain 3/4 full or will get air in the line and have to start over. this part should be located on the tranny this is for hydrolic bleeding system refure to your owners manual for your type and location of your clutchrelease slave cylander.

Your radiator fan is fuse powered but ground activated by the temprature sending unit. Ground the wire at the temp unit and see if the fan comes on with the ignition on. See your local parts dealer fro location.