20 Most Recent 1990 Mazda MX-6 Questions & Answers

Hi,

If I understand you right, the problem is the engine will not crank, that is turn over when you turn they ignition key to START. Having said that, might it be that the issue is with the starter system. The starter system is initiated at the ignition switch when the key is turned to start. At this point, the ignition switch then provides +12VDC to a starter relay (if the vehicle has got one) or direct to the starting solenoid. The relay is but a remote switch with slightly higher amperage capacity. The starter relay then engages and supplies +12VDC to the staring solenoid. The starting solenoid then performs two (2) functions. It provides the switching action (hundreds amps) from the battery heavy cable to the actual starter motor. The solenoid likewise pushes a small pinion gear along the shaft of the starter motor to engage the ring gear. The ring gear is of course on the edge of the flywheel which in turn is attached to the crankshaft.

Starter system problems could be corrected by:
1. check battery, battery cables and connections;
2. charge the battery if required;
3. clean brushes and guides of brush holders of the starter motor;
4. clean the commutator and commutator segments;
5. check/replace the armature or field coils if determined to be defective;
6. in some extreme cases it could be the drive pinion or the flywheel gear ring is defective.
7. often it is the big switch that the solenoid activates that looses contacts causing no +12V internally to the motor.
8. Most likely would be a defective starter relay or the IGN switch itself. Relative to this, you might try and check the connectors/terminals and electrical joints.

In the picture below, the upper portion is the starter solenoid while the one below it is the actual starter.

Given the amount of work to overhaul a starter, you might consider just replacing it.

So recommended course of action is determine if there is +12VDC at the starter solenoid when IGN switch is turned to START.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

Thank you for using FixYa.

Check radio fuse first. If the fuse has power on both sides, then you will have to trace the wiring to locate the problem.

tune it up n check the timing belt

There are MANY things that can cause an engine to idle rough. It could be faulty ignition parts like spark plugs, distributor cap, ignition rotor, ignition wires, coil, worn distributor shaft, bad ignitor, etc. It could also be something simple like a vacuum leak. It could be internal engine problems like burned valves, leaking piston rings, blown headgaskets, etc. etc....So, take your pick and start replacing a BUNCH of parts trying to figure it out, or take it to a qualified technician to get it properly diagnosed.

It could be any part that spins and has a bearing including the power steering pump, air condition compressor, alternator, water pump etc., even if the belts are too tight!!! The easiest way to find problem is by removing each belt and see if the noise is still there.

If you have checked your fluids this is most likely your master or slave cylinder. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/steven_958e67a4edcc47d5

your anti theft was tripped, disconnect your battery for 5-10 minutes, reconnect then cycle your key 3 times on and off within 5 seconds of eachother as in (on off, on off, on off) turn the key on sit for 10 seconds then try to start it, this is how you reset the computer.. if this dont work one of my friends took the positive battery terminal off of his 95 dodge ram an started hitting it on the positive terminal an it ended up being reset that way to i dont recommend this but its possible it might work

mass air flow sensor in the air intake pipe?? if it has one for a vehicle of this age ,.Dont keep riding the clutch to compensate as you will burn it out

no/loss of compression can be from a few different problems blown piston/piston rings[fix rebuild engine and replace piston parts ]camshaft flattened lobe [replace camshaft]valves burnt/bent carbon build up [remove head and repair/replace valves ] valve springs weak/broken[repair or replace ] head itself cracked [replace ]these are some of the reasons that u can loose compression if ur guy did compression test and determined its the head[valves ] then replace head if car is worth fixing then fix it good luck

I would check for blown fuses first and why the cruise isnt working but disconnecting it may solve part of the issue no garantee.

By turn over, I assume you mean start. If this is the case you need to check that you are getting a spark at ALL the spark plugs and check the timing.

If you mean the starter does not crank the engine, then you should start with the starter and make sure you are getting voltage there when you turn the key. Normally there is a big wire directly to the battery and small wire that is controled by the ignition key. Check both wires. The big one should have voltage whether the key is in the start position or not.

bad throw out bearing

I had the same issue with mine. The distributor cap air valve "flapper" had fallen off. Too much air/moisture was getting in. You might check there. Good luck.

1.remove speedometer driven gear
2. remove drain plug, and drain oil
3. fill trans, check fluid by speedometer gear, just above gear see F & L, oil level is between F & L
4. install speedometer driven gear

Here is a web site that sells your rear shocks or struts you may want to call them instead

http://www.discountautoshocks.com/shop/?PN=4294942187&N=0&VN=4294967236+4294966839+4294965782&Nr=AND(category:Suspension)

have the battery checked all of your lights and radio will still work even with very little juice in the battery but it takes a lot to crank the engine over and sometimes the battery will just go bad no matter when it was driven last and if the alternator has gone bad it will kill a battery fairly quickly so have it check also.

The problem is your earth wire. The engine usually has a cable from engine block to body. This sometimes become corroded and fails causing your symtoms. It could also be that this is the problem at the battery end as well....look at the earth negative lead, where that is tied to the body or even the battery itself needs to be super clean. Sandpaper all areas that require a good earth and then cover (sfter refitting leads) with grease or vaseline!

do the following, it should cure the problem.

Here are the common cause of surges, cold stalls, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

Hello there:
This could be caused by a weak battery or a loose battery terminals
or you might have a wire goin to or coming from the starter or even a bad starter or altenator you have a fuse in the fuse box that is bad that controles the ignition this may be causing your problem see if you can
first remove the battery terminals and clean them really good and reinstall them and try this ifstill nothing .
jump start the car and see if you have any low voltage showing up on the volt meter or if nothing i would start looking at the altenator ok?
Hope that this is very helpful for you
BHest regards MIchael