20 Most Recent 1988 Mazda RX-7 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

check the clutch fluid, if empty fill and bleed clutch line, if its full check the clutch slave sylinder it might be seized, replace and repete steps

i would search internet forums/market place's, likely to come across an individual with a parts car or spare parts.

Yes I know of someone who specializes in george wankel rotary engines. His name is Doug and his ph.# is 619-646-5109 ask him for mike he is the best. He is a little expensive but if you love your car its worth it.Good luck

the head gasket is blown

it's your pressure plate/spring assembly, it needs to be replaced

I use to run my own switch for the fuel pump. Leave the power off to the pump for about 10 mins. Then power it up then start engine. If this doesn't work use a little starting fluid. If that doesn't start the engine check to make sure you are getting spark to the plug. If you are check the compression.

wow brings back memories! ok those cars were known for engine harness problems start no start runs funny!

It is most likely a hydraulic clutch, and it is most likely leaking at the clutch slave cylinder. Check the clutch master cylinder for fluid, it should be a small master cylinder looking thing with a fill cap next to the brake master cylinder and booster unit. If it is empty fill it with the same dot 3 brake fluid that you use for your brake master cylinder, and make sure that you are pouring the fluid into the clutch master cylinder reservoir and not the rubber seal that should be under the fill cap. After filling the clutch master cylinder up with fluid, then try and pump up the clutch pedal. It might take a while to pump up hydraulic pressure, and you might also have to work the pedal a few times by hand at first.

Also, you might have to bleed the clutch at the slave cylinder if it will not build up enough pressure to release the clutch.

Hey! I have a 1988 too and I've had that same problem and it all came back to one thing. The oxygen sensor on the exhaust manifold. It either needs to be changed or the connection is loose right behind the intake manifold. (Dynamic chamber) Hope this works for ya. It did for me.

it could be your wiring for your primary injectors.

do you put your foot on the accelerator while cranking ???
rotors flood easily so dont be too worried if everything checks out
- voltage to coil packs are correct
- coil pack resistance is correct
- autochokes not jammed shut
- plugs are the correct type
- ht leads are measuring under 20k ohms
- what size fuel injectors are fitted...standard? a/market? impedence higher or lower than original? is cc rating higher tahn factory??

run the car with the rad cap off until the thermostat opens[top rad hose will be warm] then shut off the engine.wait a couple of minutes and recheck the fluid level,this should get rid of the air.if ithis does not fix the problem then the head gasket may need to be replaced.

maybe its the crank angle sensor.

Sounds like a grounding problem. You are having too many problems with unrelated electrical circuitry. Trace wiring harness and double check all wiring that should ground to metal framework.

it sounds as if either the hydraulic fluid is low or something is obstructing it but i believe it s hydraulic fluid is low

just taking a stab in the dark but theres this nasty wee gremiln called ESD electro static discharge ...
it rears its ugly head when you handle electronic componentry and your statically charged
(all you have to do is rub against the seat once or the carpet)...
what happens is the ESD's charge shorts out the CPU's 5v chip inside the ECU.....BUGGER!!!
the most common method used to overcome this and stop it from occuring is a grounded mat and wrist strap....
as a mechanic i know there are simple actions you learn as yu do your apprenticeship thats teaches you about safety precautions...
but if you do-it-yourself without clear knowledge sometimes things can happen....
my best advice is to remove the ECU and take it to mazda and get them to test it ...
alternatively and my favourite buy an aftermarket ecu and controller such as the apexi power fc (which i have in my fd3s)

sounds like a blown fusable link

Owners guide or a manual should work, other wise google it