20 Most Recent 2002 GMC Safari - Page 5 Questions & Answers

it might because the is overheated or the water fluid or air pressure is low so you need to go to an auto part shop to get more fluid and it sould work

The wiring bundle in the right rear (jack) storage compartment contains the trailer wiring harness (if so equipped).
The color code is:
Brown- Running lights
Yellow- Left turn signal
Dk Green- Right turn signal
Lt Grn w/white stripe- GROUND
Lt. Green- back-up lights
White- CHM stop lamp
Orange-fused Aux
Blue- unfused Aux

as found on my 2002 Safari.

You need a new battery.. Has there been cold weather Recently ?

I had this problem in a s10 blazer, it ended up being a badly corroded ground wire that actually connected to the blower at one of the mounting screws.

It sounds like your cooling fans are not comming on by themselves, but when you turn on the ac it forces them to turn on. Make sure relay is good, then replace coolant temp sensor, this may have failed no telling pcm to turn on cooling fans. Thanks

there is a electronic sensor that starts going bad after time i had a astrovan that did the samethimg i changed out the sensor and vola it worked again saved about $300 by doing this myself that sensor should be located by the unit (providing it is not a internal sealed sensor ) contact cragen aor autozone for further info they may call the sensor somthing else
ok hoipes this helps regards mike

the idle isn't adjustable. you might want to have the idle air control motor checked out. they are prone to sticking in the open position allowing more air into the intake

check the anti freeze level, see if the electrict fan is workig, change the thermostate, then the water pump

this is not an easy task if you dont know where the oil pump is you need a garage its in the bootom of the motor u have 2 remove oil pan

Hi!

For P0101-- First thing to do is check your air filter. Check the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor and clean it using MAF cleaner. I use a Q-Tip soaked in the cleaner to gently clean the 3 wires. Be careful not to break one or the sensor becomes useless.

Sounds like you have loose wiring or a short in the power door locks. Try looking behind the power door lock switch and work your way back through the door to see if there are any loose or bare wires touching on any doors with a lock button. A Chilton or Haynes Manual for your exact car may be found at a library or most auto parts stores, and they'd be able to give you the exact location and diagrams of the wiring for your power door locks. The dome light may be a loose or broken switch in the door that turns the lights on/off when you open/close the door, try tightening the bolts or nuts holding this switch to the door frame. Hope I could help.

Looks like you'll have to drop the tank. Here's a link for reference.

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528009c1af

Sounds like a connecting rod bearing problem. I would have a pro. listen to it.

You either crushed a line or a cooler for the power steering. The brakes are hydro boost so the braking power comes from the ps pump.

Put a prybar between 2 of the small fan bolts. Have someone hold the prybar, or rest it on the frame if it is long enough.Then turn the big nut on the fan to the left.It will be VERY tight. If that doesn't work, you can probably rent the fan removal tools from your local parts store.

check your vacuum lines that sevice the plenumm doors that redirect the air. A good kick in one of the foot wells under the dash can dislodge a conection. The other problem may be the main dash selector its self

yes on my van it was by the ac unit under the hood but please check with autozone and i think that the resistor pac would be correct too i would to make sure check with autozone that way you would be 100 percent sure ok best regards mike

Hi,

I am assuming that the engine is cranking (turn over) but will not run.

Most gasoline engines would need only two (2) elements to run; fuel and ignition (spark) at the right moment. Based on your post, "not appeared to have jumped timing", it would then be assumed that the "at the right moment" (at least for the spark) is good. Next to check then would be for the presence of spark; this could be performed by removing one of the spark plugs, reconnecting the said plug to its wire, let it rest on any exposed metal and crank the engine. There should be a pulsating spark at the end, if yes then problem is most likely elsewhere, if none, then next to check (depending on the engine type) would be the:

• high tension wires;
• distributor;
• distributor cap;
• rotor;
• ignition module;
• ignition B+12.

If there is spark and yet would not run, then the fuel delivery to the engine has to be checked. There are two checks on the injector:

• electrical - pulsating +12 on each of the injectors while cranking;
• fuel spray - you need to remove all and check if each will spray fuel (while cranking). For safety reasons, pls have several disposable containers ready to catch the fuel, paper towels or rugs to wipe/clean off any spilled raw fuel. If yes, problem is elsewhere, if not and no pulsating +12 while cranking, ECM wiring or connector, if there is pulsating +12 yet no fuel spray, then defective injectors or defective high pressure pump.

In some instances, it could be the alarm/security/immobilizer acting up which prevents the engine to run.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.

What ya talking about? I have 112,000 + miles on my 2002 Safari and no problems.

Be MUCH MORE specific on your problem. Check on www.astrosafari.com