20 Most Recent 1999 GMC Sierra - Page 4 Questions & Answers

he can buy the haynes repair manule at autozone it has the diagram in it near the back cost $15.00  plus helpful for later problems

You will likely need to replace the fuel pump inside the fuel tank.

Hello and welcome to FixYa!

If the battery light is on, I strongly suggest that you have the battery charged. It can be an indication of a weak battery or a faulty alternator. If the battery light still on after charging then the problem will surely be on the alternator itself. If that's the case the alternator should be replaced to resolve the problem.

If the battery won't hold charge even on a new alternator then the problem will be on the battery itself. It surely is in the end of it's service life and replacement will be necessary.

You may try to reset it to by removing the positive battery connector, letting it sit for at least 5mins. then reconnect it again. This will reset the system and can get the battery light off.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

check oil brake level. or disconnect switch wire at master cylinder hope it helps

it looks like a tcc (torque converter clutch)circuit problems or torque converter clutch itself hope it helps

Is your shift linkage all connected maybe reset your range sensor/neutral safety sensor

Not sure what you are asking

That's a random misfire. It could be bad plugs, wires, coils, intake gaskets and a whole lot of other things. You need to have that diagnosed by a mechanic. The cause of my po300 code was a bad intake gasket found by the random misfire of cylinders 1 and 2 so it was at the front of the vehicle the mechanic spayed something around the front of the intake and the rpm's increased. bad gasket sucking to much air into those cylinders and causing a false misfire. I say false cause it did fire the gasses produced where not right the computer did not like the extra air

Code 300 is for a random miss and may be tough to track down. You may have to wait until one or more cylinders are not producing power.

look for a harness unhooked under the driver side dash

Usually a faulty blend door under the dash.

have a professional steering shop look at it and adjust the rack /box if there is no faults.

Instead of that, see if you can get an electronic flasher unit for your vehicle that does not depend on the turn signal light load (amps) to control flashing speed. This is much simpler than splicing things into wires.

Are you saying you don't have blower at all? Defrost, floor and panel are the only three separate modes you have. If it's not blowing at all and the fuses are good, check the wiring behind the glove box. There's a two wire plug with a large red wire just about center of the glove box opening that's known for burning out. If it is you'll see the burned spot on the connector or wont be able to disconnect it.

When the ignition switch is ON and the fuel pump is running, the fuel pressure indicated by the fuel pressure gauge should read 379-427 kPa (55-62 psi) . The spring pressure inside the fuel pressure regulator controls the fuel pressure.

A fuel system that drops more than 34 kPa (5 psi) in 10 minutes has a leak

Never tried it, but it should work because it\'s a pain to drop the tank and eyeball it. Electric fuel pump in the tank... ok. It\'s a motor and motors draw current right? One could -possibly- yank the fuse and replace it with a ammeter (DVM on Amps). If the circuit is complete, it should pull 3-4 amps minimum when the pump is running I\'d think. If the circuit is open, it won\'t draw anything, zero or close to it. There may be a small draw from other stuff that\'s on the fused power but the difference should be obvious. Better yet, drop the meter into the relay contact circuit. The only thing that should be on that one is the fuel pump itself. Put one lead on the +12 battery and the other lead into the contact block that goes to the pump. It should turn on. If you\'re squirmish use a pigtail fuse at about 4 amps. The coil and contact arrangement is usually printed on the side of the relay. If not, the contacts are usually on beefier terminals than the coil. If all else fails, get the chassis service manual and look up the color codes.

If a wire wasn't disconnected behind the radio housing, a wire might've been shorted, blowing a fuze.

can you say the type of fuel you have first.and check your codes.