20 Most Recent 1996 GMC Jimmy - Page 7 Questions & Answers

timmings off or cloged fuil injetors

clean and use j b weld

see if your emergency break is stuck. how is your oil presser? are you burning more gas now?

could be your oil sending unite or a lifter or rocker arm add a oil aditive and see if it helps

look herehttps://www.google.com/search?safe=off&q=v6+4.3+vortec+engine&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.r_qf.&bvm=bv.51773540,d.b2I,pv.xjs.s.en_US.GZikMza0zSU.O&biw=1152&bih=745&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N

you are out of timing or you put your distributor 180 off or you may have hooked the plug wires up wrong you may have 2 in the wrong place

bad float in your tank

could be yur water pump going do you leak anti freeze or oil? also if a older model could be ot of timeing check your distributor cap and see if its loosegood luck

sounds like the fuel pump not working but why its not working i couldnt tell you without a play

Lets start at the beginning. Did anyone check fuel pressure before and after replacing the pump ?Has anyone checked the fuel pressure regulator and the injector spider ? The 4.3w engine uses a spider with one injector that supplies all 6 cylinders. And it runs at 65psi or more.

main fuse.check

Hi, It may be in LIMP mode.

What is "limp-home mode" ? This is a fault mode in which the transmission either loses electrical power or the PCM deactivates all of the electronics. The transmission will default to max line pressure. The driver will have Reverse and 3rd, with manual 2nd available by putting the gearshift in 2 or 1 (doesn't matter). 1st, 4th, and TCC lockup will not be available. It will not hurt the car to drive it like this for short periods, but use manual 2nd to get the car moving, and be aware that the trans will generate more heat than normal while operating in limp-home mode due to increased torque converter slippage during 2nd gear starts and no lockup in 3rd gear.

Common failures on 4L60E, symptom any possible repair:

Trans shifts into gear harshly, car feels sluggish off the line, No 1st, 4th or TCC lockup available, Manual 2nd, 3rd and Reverse are only available gears, CEL is on: Transmission is either in limp-home mode or has lost electrical power. If there are lots of error codes in the PCM, check the under-hood fuse that powers the transmission, and if it pops again, look for a short in that circuit like an O2 sensor harness touching exhaust. Otherwise, check PCM codes for a particular fault in the transmission causing the PCM to put it in limp-home mode.

No 1st or 4th available; trans shifts 2nd to 3rd by itself in D or OD and locks the converter :ShiftA solenoid failed. Easy fix in the pan. Or a wiring problem from PCM to trans.. or PCM.

Car goes into gear but feels very sluggish like the brakes are dragging, but it will roll easily (starts out in 4th gear), you manually shift to 2 to get it moving, once it's moving you put it back in OD and the car shifts 3rd to 4th on its own and locks the converter at the appropriate time: ShiftB solenoid failed: Easy fix in the pan. Or a wiring problem from PCM to trans.. or PCM.

Trans seems noisy when moving in 1st and Reverse, noise goes away instantly if you shift to N or the trans goes into 3rd gear: Reaction planetary is worn out due to high miles or insufficient lubrication. Not a critical failure, but not a good sign either. R&R sooner rather than later.

3rd gear starts, can manually shift through all gears. When car has been turned off for a bit, then back on it will run normally.: VSS dropoff w/ Hi-stall converter. The rpms are too high, but VSS is showing no movement. Happens after a tire burning take-off. Doesn't store a code, will not throw a CEL (I've heard that it will store a code if it happens 3 or more times). Cure: Reprogram PCM for VSS dropoff -- PCMforLess knows about it.

If you can get the Jimmy for no more then $500.00 and the engine sounds good and body is good, you may want to invest in the repair of the jimmy. Also note that to have a close look at the fuel line along the frame on the drivers side just by the back doors, the line is know to corroded there on all the SUV's

Engines are designed to run with a maximum advance setting and too exceed this will loose power and cause engine damage.. More power comes from inlet manifold changes ---cam shaft changes---good quality extractors and a clean flowing exhaust system. ---head modifications.--- larger pistons correct size carburation (too big a carby tends to put the fire out)

Hi,you can re check timing, run compression test,

If it's losing tranny fluid and there are no visible leaks externally, try looking in the radiator and seeing if it looks like chocolate milk in there.More than likely you blew your transmission cooler which is built into the radiator, and that has been mixing with your engine coolant.Get back to me, I hope I could help..Thx,

I start by cracking the lines at the master cylinder first to ensure that the cylinder is properly primed . Then start at the longest line first working back to the shortest. The abs light sometimes work in conjunction with the traction control unit ( both use the same sensors at the wheels) so have the fault codes read and reset the computer

Could be. You have checked for spark and fuel pressure ?Is the injector assembly getting power and a ground signal ?

Could be vent valve.maybe you have to replace.