1994 GMC Yukon - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I hope I can help you with your question I believe I can first and foremost if you're having trouble starting your car on cold mornings it's probably going to be a clogged fuel filter or bad fuel pump about to go out you're having symptoms as you described and then whenever you're at 55° things start to warm up and you can start your car okay the filter is so clogged up imagine that look looking like a blood vessel okay when you have a clog in it it doesn't allow the blood to flow freely feel the same way

Check the MAP sensor connection/connector and either the seal where it plugs in the intake or vacuum hose connection .

Looks like it lost battery power. Check around the battery for loose or broken connections at both ends of the battery cables. There's one from the battery minus to the engine that could have broken. Hope this helps.

sounds like a blockage somewhere in fuel line try a fuel addative that clears fuel line and injectors etc follow the instructions on product

Get a remanufactured ECM.

Put a timing light on it and see if the timing jumps arround if so you chain could be bad. You should also put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see what you have for pressure,

• well you need TO CHECK IT AND GO TO AUTO ZONE ...

Bad headlight switch.

have the fault codes read and replace the faulty sensors. possible o2 sensors --water temp /air temp sensors.

bad plug or wire

Either it will just click when you turn the key or a fast spinning sound of it turning the gear but it does not engage the flywheel.

This could be 1 of 2 things 1 being the heater control valve and the other is the heater core is clogged up.

check your temperature sensor also check your air filter

Hi, the pump should be getting battery voltage (gray and black/white wires at the pump) thru the fusible link and the orange wire to the relay. The relay is controlled by the ECM thru the positive relay coil signal on the green/white wire.You might want to check the ground connection of the relay coil on the black/white wire. If that's good, maybe the ground wire to the pump is bad.

Majority of GM that year is on the exhaust manifold or pipe coming off the manifold before it goes into the catalytic converter. Kind of looks like a spark plug with a wire coming off of it screwed into the pipe.

The computer should be giving you a code without the code I would be guesing because I have seen this problem before. The usual cause of this problem is the Cam Sensor. Hook up a OBII code reader or get the computer scanned and I am almost positive it will be the Cam Sensor.

I would suggest taking the oil pressure sender out and temporarily connecting a manual gauge to the engine. Run the engine until it's warm. If the manual gauge reads the same pressure as the electric one you may have a serious engine problem. If the manual gauge reads normal when the engine is warm the problem is probably with the gauge, most likely the sender.

Hi, the bezel pulls straight off the dash. Then it's easy to see the back of the switch. Check the connector to see if maybe the fit is loose. Sometimes you can get a better connection by bending the blades slightly one left, the next right, etc. You only need to do it to the blades that run the dimmer wheel. It becomes trickier putting the connector back on, so don't bend them too far or push too hard when reconnecting. If that doesn't work, check the connection to the dimmer wheel. Try the same technique there. Let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for using FixYa.



Dimmer wheel

depending on the engine thats in you vehicle, all newer gm engines run an automatic tensioner. . the tensioners bind up with age and the belt will start to slip and make noise. if you change tyhe tensioner, change the belt at the same time... it doesnt take long for a slipping belt to get a "glaze" on it, and then your truck with its new tensioner might still squeak.

I'd be looking at driveshafts. They cause vibrations, rattles, squeaks and uncountable other symptoms. You didn't really say what was happening in your description. I'd be looking at driveline - driveshafts, hangar bearings and possibly transfer case and front bearings.