20 Most Recent 1994 GMC Yukon - Page 2 Questions & Answers

check your temperature sensor also check your air filter

Hi, the pump should be getting battery voltage (gray and black/white wires at the pump) thru the fusible link and the orange wire to the relay. The relay is controlled by the ECM thru the positive relay coil signal on the green/white wire.You might want to check the ground connection of the relay coil on the black/white wire. If that's good, maybe the ground wire to the pump is bad.

Majority of GM that year is on the exhaust manifold or pipe coming off the manifold before it goes into the catalytic converter. Kind of looks like a spark plug with a wire coming off of it screwed into the pipe.

The computer should be giving you a code without the code I would be guesing because I have seen this problem before. The usual cause of this problem is the Cam Sensor. Hook up a OBII code reader or get the computer scanned and I am almost positive it will be the Cam Sensor.

I would suggest taking the oil pressure sender out and temporarily connecting a manual gauge to the engine. Run the engine until it's warm. If the manual gauge reads the same pressure as the electric one you may have a serious engine problem. If the manual gauge reads normal when the engine is warm the problem is probably with the gauge, most likely the sender.

Hi, the bezel pulls straight off the dash. Then it's easy to see the back of the switch. Check the connector to see if maybe the fit is loose. Sometimes you can get a better connection by bending the blades slightly one left, the next right, etc. You only need to do it to the blades that run the dimmer wheel. It becomes trickier putting the connector back on, so don't bend them too far or push too hard when reconnecting. If that doesn't work, check the connection to the dimmer wheel. Try the same technique there. Let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for using FixYa.



Dimmer wheel

depending on the engine thats in you vehicle, all newer gm engines run an automatic tensioner. . the tensioners bind up with age and the belt will start to slip and make noise. if you change tyhe tensioner, change the belt at the same time... it doesnt take long for a slipping belt to get a "glaze" on it, and then your truck with its new tensioner might still squeak.

I'd be looking at driveshafts. They cause vibrations, rattles, squeaks and uncountable other symptoms. You didn't really say what was happening in your description. I'd be looking at driveline - driveshafts, hangar bearings and possibly transfer case and front bearings.

fuel regulator is leaking, probably-pull the vacuum hose off and if there is gas inside the hose, replace the regulator. If you are near a commercial auto parts store most have a free loaner program where you can get a pressure gauge-test to see if pressure is too high. Also consider the possibility that you have leaking injectors (O-rings) causing your flooding condition.

Have you inspected the wires where they go into the transmission and follow them seeking to find the short?
Ck

You are probably right--but also check solenoid --it's quite old & if not repaired recently --probably is the problem. Bad ground wire or power wire as you say could be the problem.

Why wont my 94 yukon shift out of first when in drive?

Reach up under the bumper. Turn the socket counter clockwise. remove the socket from the lens assembly. Replace the bulb with a #194 bulb. Reinstall. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

it sounds like the contact that turns your parking lights on has gone bad. the contact is located in the light switch. so, you probably need a new light switch. make sure you check your fuses first before you replace the light switch. good luck.

No. They do not have an alternator fuse.

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