1991 GMC K1500 - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

1999 GMC 5.7 liter V-8 VIN "R"



Hope helps (remember to rate and comment this).

maybe check that the shaft isn't bent in the distributor

you might want to check the oil. if its not that then it could be your valves that need to be adjusted

one wire goes to alternator. if there are 3 wires, one might go to fusebox under hood. (big one goes to starter).

SOUND LIKE THE SHIFT CONTROL MODULE FAULTY OR THE YOUR SHIFT LINKAGE LACK LUBRICATION OR COULD BE LOOSE OR DAMAGED.

The Vortec motors typically have the fuel regulator down inside the intake (yep you have to remove the top section of the motor to see or replace them). Also you need to go to a special location on the Internet to find a replacement fuel regulator or you will be forced to purchase the whole fuel rail. It is designed with rivets you have to drill out to remove just the regulator. I replaced mine with a kit I bought on the Internet for about $100 (that was about five years ago) and it was about a difficulty of 5 because I had to drill a small hole and buy a special "security" Torx tool. Also read this first in case there's a problem in the manifold "plenum" that is leaking and not the regulator:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/t566095.html
For the 4.3L vortec a regulator and special security tool can be purchased here: http://www.outdoorpros.com/Prod/Dorman-Motormite-55162-Fuel-System-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator/49990/Cat/1276?SSAID=198698
Buy the CPI regulator kit including regulator, gasket, mounts, bolts and the wonderful instructions for $100 here or call 1-888-809-3835 to order by phone: http://www.lindertech.com/reconinj.htm

If all the above is as you described it, and the battery is good and the engine will crank over, then it sounds like a faulty control module.

The ignition module located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Sedn us details about your vehicle.

Looking at your engine from the front of the vehicle you will see the fuel injector assembly at the rear of the intake manifold (behiold the throttle body). Looking past the injector assembly, a little to the right, down the block a little ways (towards the firewall) you will see the SS Monoblock from which the two lines feed fuel to the the injector assembly. On the line closest to the distributor you will find the Fuel Pressure Connection (it will have a black plastic cap on it).

You have to remove the upper half of the intake ( PLENUEM ) and you will see it on the back of the spider Assembley, It's round and has a nipple on it.

Hope this help (remember rated this) Good luck.

Park fork is probably damaged, take a trip to a trans shop like aamco.

there is a in line fuel filter under the truck between the tank end motor. try replacing it first.its about 10 dollars. if thats not it, take the fuel line loose, before it goes into the filter and let it hang down freely, try starting the truck with the line off. if no fuel comes out of the line, the fuel pump is not working. this can be a bad pump, wiring problem or fuse. let me know, i will try to help. [email protected]

have you tried the fuel pump relay, the relay coil may be overheating and dropping out. Or there is **** in the pump filter at the tank end if it has one on the lift pump end itself (i.e. in-tank filter)

must have screwed up your temp sensor,could have plugged your heater valve,if you do replace the sensor get 1 from dealer not autozone, also low coolant level will affect the heater!

Either the switch in the dash is shot or the regulator in the transfer case or the switch in the front end.

see if you can pull the outside handle out a little & put some needlenose pliers in the opening & grab the rod to open the door. otherwise unscrew the door panel & get into the inside of the door that way.

good luck

If your third gen is NOT air bag equipped, just follow the blue NUMBERED steps only!
If you have a 90-92 F-Body equipped with an air bag, skip steps 1 and 2 and go to step A in red letters just below step 2!

1. Remove steering wheel horn button and assocated wiring.
2. Remove steering wheel nut clip and nut then using a steering wheel puller, pull off the steering wheel.
   
   1. Disconnect battery
   2. Remove both lower under dash panels.
   3. Remove SIR (airbag) fuse from fuse panel. (this is overkill since you disconnected the battery but gm recommends it)
   4. Disconect the big yellow wire with the yellow SIR tag going to the steering column. (there will be a saftey clip you have to remove before unplugging the connector)
   5. Disconnect the smaller 2 connector wire that is right beside the yellow SIR connector. (this usually has a orange cover around the wires on the steering column side)
   6. Remove the airbag from the column by unscrewing the 4 torx screws on the back side of the steering wheel. (these screws will not come out of the wheel since they have retaining devices on them. Also back these screws off a little at a time simultaneously or you will put the airbag in a bind.)
   7. Disconnect SIR connector on the airbag at the steering column (make sure to remove the blue saftey clip first)
   8. Set airbag aside. (carry it with the finished side facing away from you and place on a smooth surface face up.)
   9. Remove steering wheel with common steering wheel puller.
   10. Once steering wheel is removed you will see the SIR sensor underneath. Remove this by using lock ring pliers to remove the retainer)
   11. Slide the SIR sensor out (the wire will pull out enough to clear the column and set aside but still be connected to the column)
       From this point you will remove the lockplate at step 3 below (in blue letters). Things should be pretty much exactly the same.
   
   
3. Remove the lock plate cover
4. Remove lock plate with lock plate depressing tool (remove C-clip when lock plate is depressed
5. Remove the loose parts (i'm not sure what they're called but they just slip off)
6. Remove the hazard light button.
7. Remove 3 phillips screws that hold the turn signal mechanical switches (you may have to flip the turn signal to the left to get to the bottom screw.)
8. Remove the vanity plate under neath the dash to get to the wiring at the base of the steering column (this is above the driver's feet)
9. Pull on the turn signal wires to get some slack and pull it over the middle spindle thing.
10. Remove the ignition cylinder hold down pin (it's smaller than a t-10 torx, not sure what number) and pull the ignition cylinder out.
11. Remove 3 torx bolts (I think #15 or 20) Be careful not to drop any of these bolts or screws into the steering column.. they're hard to get back out..
12. Unscrew the tilt steering lever
13. Remove the steering column collar. This is kinda tricky and you gotta pull this over that center spindle. Takes some stretching of the wires to get it to pull over it but it's do-able.
14. Now there's a circular thing under the spindle, using a big philips screw driver, push it down and turn it. Careful cause there's a spring under it. release the spring and remove it.
15. Now you need a tilt steering pin remover. These things are hard to find.. I know the MAC man and the Snap-on man have them and those are the only two I know of that have them. (I borrowed a snap-on one from a mechanic at a shop I used to work at. You can use a screw and thread it and then pull on it with pliers but that's a pain in the ****.. I've heard one guy use a dent puller and it worked fine.
16. When you pull the pins out the tilt head will move and you should be able to pull it out towards you some. (you might have to put the tilt steering lever back in to release the cogs inside the column)
17. There are four inverse torx (size E8) bolts in there. Just tighten the heck out of them.. they'll stay.. Don't take them out cause there's a plate on the other end. If you pull out the bolt to loctite it, the plate will fall off and you'll have to pull the whole column to get the plate back in. If you've got the steering column out of the car, then I guess this isn't an issue but there isn't a need. My column has stayed tight for a year now.

Installation:
Once they're tightened up, installation is in reverse order. Getting the tilt part of the column back on is kind of tricky too but with that spring out (step 14), it's not too bad.. I did it with the spring still installed.. Be careful when you put the collar back on, you don't want to bend the piece that sits on the left side of the column that's attached to the ignition cylinder. if you bend it, you may not be able to turn the key or the car may not statr when the column is put together. If it does get bent or look bent, you can bend it back by hand.
When you're putting the high beam linkage back on, make sure that the end metal rod fits into the switch under the steering column and then put grease on the steering column piece to hold it in place as you put the collar back on. then it's just bolts and screws and you're set.
It took me 2 tries to get it right.. First time, I didn't tighten the 4 bolts down tight enough and it got lose again quick. You might also want to loctite the screw that holds the turn signal lever in place. That likes to get loose and then you have to take off the steering wheel and lock plate to tighten it.
If you have any questions, let me know..

clearly a gear box fult, its going to be pricy to fix as well

Sounds to me like either your pressure regulator is bad or you have a loose fitting somewhere in the fuel line from the fuel pump to the engine. When you turn your key to the on position, you should hear the whine of the fuel pump until it builds pressure. When you shut the truck off the pressure regulator should retain the pressure for a certain amount of time but if it don't close then air is allowed into the fuel line and the fuel drains down to fuel line away from the engine. Next time you try and start the truck after it has sat for a while try turning the key on until you hear the fuel pump whine shut off, then repeat it 3-5 times and then try to start it. Basically that is running the pump enough to get the fuel back up to the injectors. Check for loose fittings in the fuel line, or cracks in the fuel line and if all that is fine then replace the regulator.

Hope that helps

driver side power mirror won't move up or down. will move side two side.

First thing you need to do is isolate the problem to either spark or fuel. I'm betting on spark. Most common problem with those was either the coil or the ignition module in the distributor. There is no test for module and coil test is pretty much the same as on all normal coils. Check those and if you have problems, I'll be glad to help further.