1991 GMC K1500 - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

remove the blower motor to get it out.

how many miles? timing chain? distributor? more than likely timing chain..

Have you tried cleaning the battery terminals? I know it sounds crazy but it cold be the problem.

CHECK THE PRINT CIRCIUT BOARD IN TAILLIGHT ASSMBLY ,POSSIBLE TURN SIGNAL SWITCH ASSEMBLY

Fully charged- but maybe air in itor no flow thru orificeCycles because of pressure differencesin the systemFind out why

Since spark, gas and air are the basis for an engine running...check for a good, clean spark going to each cylinder, Check the choke for a jammed preheater coil that is not setting the choke properly.

There is one test I suggest you have run, it is called a fuel pressure leak down test. If the fuel pump pressure check valve fails to hold fuel pressure it causes hard starting. Any shop can run this test.

I would strongly recommend you download an instruction sheet from the company website which is msdPerformance.com.The basic answer is the pink wire from the key is connected to the B+ terminal on the coil.

if the starter is making a grinding noise when you turn the key, it's one of several possiblites. 1. Bad Starter. 2. Bad flywheel. 3. You need starter shims that fit between the starter and the motor. Most starters will bolt straight up but sometimes the gears get too close so you need to shim them apart.

You may have to replace the o-ring or gasket but first you would have to have the system evacuated as it illegal to let it go in the atmosphere. Then, replace the O-ring/gasket pull a vacuum on the system to remove any moisture inject the right amount of refrigerant oil and then charge the system with the proper amount of refrigerant. If you do not have the right equipment to do this job bring the vehicle to a professional where they can further assist you. It is important to remove the moisture from the system as it may cause performance issues and even damage later on.

The distributor does have to be removed and dis-assembled in order to replace the ignition pick-up coil/stator, and if the pick-up coil/stator is faulty then the distributor should be replaced because the distributor will come with a new pick-up coil/stator and the old distributor will have to be removed anyway and in the long run it will actually save money from not having to pay a mechanic to remove and dis-assemble the distributor to replace the pick-up coil/stator, however most of the time it is the ignition module inside of the distributor that is faulty.When the engine is at TDC (Top Dead Center) is the ignition rotor pointing to the #1 position on the distributor housing as described below?The engine should be set on TDC (Top Dead Center) with the distributor cap removed, and there is a mark or notch on the distributor housing that the rotor should be pointing to when the engine is on top dead center. (Look under the distributor cap and find where the number one terminal runs under the distributor cap, and where that position on the distributor cap corresponds with the distributor housing, and it should match up to a mark or a notch on the distributor housing)This static timing is all that matters and the computer will be able to control the timing as long as the ignition rotor is in that position when the engine is at top dead center.If the engine is at TDC and the ignition rotor does not point to the #1 mark on the distributor housing, then loosen the hold down bolt to the distributor and turn the distributor until the rotor is pointing to the #1 mark on the distributor and then tighten the distributor hold down bolt.

Not sure about yours, but on a lot of them you have to partially dissemble the distributor. Not that hard, just drive out the roll pin on the bottom gear with a punch, and slide off the gear. Now dist. shaft can be pulled out from the top. That's about it. Remove and replace pick-up coil.Good luck.

Check power lock wiring; some aftermark lock system there?

i would imagine you blew the bulbs so check them first before you go on the magic relay quest,

they should not. the 700r4 is a lock up conveter and the TH 400 is not.

have ya checked fuses

ok number one on distributur should be marked and its 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 in clockwise order and on engine, right side is 1-3-5-7. left is 2-4-6-8. couldnt find a good diagram but thats correct

I'm not sure exactly what your problem is. When you "click" your lights to low beam, your high beams should not work. But if your low beams work when you "click" them on, but your high beams don't work when you "click" them on, you either have a blown fuse, bad relay or high beam elements burned out on both lamps. (Not so unusual) Possibly a bad "dimmer" stalk switch or bad wiring, too, but a little less likely.

First thing to check is the cabin filter..The vehicle will tell you where the filter is ,,and how to change it..Also make sure there is no obstructions in the return..Usually under the glove box area or around the cowl which is outside underneath the wiper arm

Hi, Sounds like you may have a vacume leak and soap will just be sucked in to the motor.I would check for loose bolts on throttle body or rubber seals that are loose.Check for cracked rubber hoses also or loose hoses. Throttle body may have a split gasket as well.You can use a stethoscope that can be bought at auto parts to pin point noise or soft piece of paper. Thank Y for choosing FixYa.