20 Most Recent 2005 Ford Focus - Page 6 Questions & Answers

first check your battery and cables... a dying battery and/ or corroded, loose cables may be the cause all those problemsIf you don't have the owner's manual, you can get a PDF file of it from a USA ford website: Google search 2005 ford focus owners manualThe battery light means bad battery, alternator, or wires Oil light means low oil level, bad oil sensor or bad wire to sensorAbs light, check brakes or wiring to speed sensors or abs computerOrange check engine light, a sensor or other electrical part has failed or wire broken to that sensor. You will need an obd2 scanner to find out trouble codes!But, if ALL OF THE LIGHTS ARE ON while car is running, you really need to check and make sure the battery and charging system is OK FIRST

The clutch fluid is part of the brake fluid it drawers fluid out of the main brake fluid resaviour

If I remember correctly its tucked in behind the pulley at the back of the head that drives the powersteering pump

If you have used a dealer/mechanic, it should be printed on their invoice, if you have retained them. If you don't have any invoices, you may have to visit the dealer/mechanic.

The way u are explaining it seems it got free and the nut's teeth are blunt now. u will probably have to cut the nut for removing the bolt ... try some lubricant put some more force otherwise cut the nut.

Check your power steering fluid level. If it is low that is probably what is causing the noise. The pump is running dry. If that is the problem it means you have a leak somewhere. I have had this issue with my Focus for awhile. I just check the fluid often. I don't fix things until I absolutely have to. Check your manual my Focus uses transmission fluid for the power steering system.

It sounds like you have a bad connection or window switch is bad if you can remove the door panel you can probably replace the switch yourself without taking it to a shop

Check the socket that holds the bulb at the left rear. Make sure it's clean and wires are in it. Next make sure you have power and ground in socket. If you have all that try another bulb.

Likely candidates are a vacuum leak, a faulty Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or another sensor. OBDII readers which display fault codes are very reasonably priced these days and would in most cases tell you right away what the problem is.

I would say, get the fault codes checked, the engine need the speed signal, to run properly , so take it from there.

Could be something on the exhaust system - perhaps it blew under the car or you drive over it (paper, plastic bag, etc.). If you have a new muffler, this is common for a week or so. Take a look under the car. Hopefully this is the case.

TAKE OFF THE WHEELS AND LOOK AT THE ABS SPEED SENSORS IF THEY ARE MAKING CONTACT THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH THE BEARINGS IN THE HUBS YOU' LL SEE A RING THAT THE SENSOR SITS OVER LOOK FOR GRINDING AWAY OF THE TIP (SEE ^ IN PHOTO) AND IF IT'S THERE THE HUBS ARE NO GOOD YOU WILL ALSO HAVE THE SAME THING WITHOUT THE GRINDING BECAUSE THE SENSOR IS PICKING UP ERRATIC ROTATION FROM THE HUBS FRONT & BACK MUST BE CHECKED ^

Bad regulator, leaky injectors, leak in lines somewhere. Since it runs ok once started, I suspect leaky injectors.

have the switch checked out, maybe the "up" wires are corroded, come loose, or wires crimped and severed.

Go up from underneath ,drop the radiator support cross member then let the rads drop down a bit then you can get a small 10mm spanner and put your arm to undo the two nuts on the back of the lock on the bonnet,i have done quite a few this way as the wand thing as its called here in spain packs up ,they are not cheap either if you can get the earlier one from a scrappers which is a telescopic rod then this is better

Are you talking about the on-board computer settings ? I am providing some videos, check them up