20 Most Recent 2002 Ford F250 Super Duty SuperCab - Page 2 Questions & Answers

sounds like it burnt out, replace.

Does the truck have daytime driving lights ? Sounds like a short , maybe the switch inside the steering column . Turn signal , wiper , headlamp dimmer ,or multifuction switch . Without testing this is just a guess . Find a wiring diagram at http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html there free , get yourself a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter an test the B+ volt into an out of the switch . moving dimmer from low to high an turning on the turn signals etc.... Suggest you watch a few videos on youtube for automotive electrical testing , how to use a wiring diagram etc.... disconnect circuits at the mutifunction switch . Measure the resistance between multifunction switch C202a pin 44, circuit 44 (LB), harness side, and electronic flasher connector pin 1, circuit 44 (LB), harness side; and between multifunction switch C202a pin 44, circuit 44 (LB), harness side, and ground.

• Is the resistance less than 5 ohms between the multifunction switch and the electronic flasher, and greater than 10,000 ohms between the multifunction switch and ground?

Carry out the multifunction switch component test; Refer to Wiring Diagrams Cell 149 for schematic and connector information. .

• Is the multifunction switch OK?

Yes INSTALL a new electronic flasher. TEST the system for normal operation. No INSTALL a new multifunction switch; REFER to Section 211-05 . TEST the system for normal operation. Testing the electrical circuits of all the system not functioning properly is how you go about finding the problem .

1. Visually inspect the following for obvious signs of mechanical and electrical damage. Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical
   • Headlamp switch
   • Multifunction switch
   • Battery junction box (BJB) fuse 3 (30A)
   • Central junction box (CJB) fuse:
     • 5 (15A)
     • 16 (20A)
     • 26 (10A)
     • 28 (10A)
   • Wiring harness
   • Loose or corroded connections
   • Headlamp relay (if equipped)
   • DRL relay No. 2 (if equipped)
   • DRL jumper (if equipped)
   • RAP module (if equipped)
   • Central security module (if equipped)
   • Light sensor amplifier (if equipped)
   • Headlamp bulb

1. If the concern is not visually evident, determine the symptom and proceed to the Symptom Chart.

Symptom Chart NOTE: Refer to the Wiring Diagrams for connector numbers stated in the pinpoint test. Symptom Chart Condition Possible Sources Action

• Both headlamps are inoperative

• Battery junction box (BJB) fuse 3 (30A).
• Headlamp switch.
• Circuitry.
• Multifunction switch.

• GO to Pinpoint Test A .

• The low beams are inoperative

• Central junction box (CJB).
• Circuitry.

• GO to Pinpoint Test B .

• The high beams are inoperative

• CJB fuse 16 (20A).
• Circuitry.
• CJB.
• Multifunction switch.

• GO to Pinpoint Test C .

• One low beam headlamp is inoperative

• CJB fuses:
  • 28 (10A) (LH).
  • 26 (10A) (RH).
• Headlamp bulb.
• Circuitry.

• GO to Pinpoint Test D .

• One high beam headlamp is inoperative

• Headlamp bulb.
• Circuitry.

• GO to Pinpoint Test E .

• The headlamps are on continuously

• Headlamp switch.
• Circuitry.
• Multifunction switch.
• Daytime running lamp (DRL) relay No. 2 (if equipped).
• DRL jumper (if equipped).
• Headlamp relay (if equipped).
• Remote anti-theft personality (RAP) module (if equipped).
• Central security module (if equipped)
• Light sensor amplifier (if equipped).

• GO to Pinpoint Test F .

• The high and low beam headlamp is inoperative on one side

• Circuitry.

• REPAIR circuit 57 (BK). TEST the system for normal operation.

• The flash-to-pass feature is inoperative

• Multifunction switch.

• CHECK circuit 196 (DB/OG) for an open. REPAIR if necessary. If OK, INSTALL a new multifunction switch; REFER to Section 211-05 . TEST the system for normal operation.

www2.dana.com/pdf/5326.pdf I believe you have a Dana 50 front axle. 2004 and up come with Dana 60. You can upgrade to the Dana 60 as a drop in. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1059204-dana-50-parts-breakdown.html

The Ford trucks of the 80's had a number of common problems. One of those problems were the location of their battery cables. The Positive (red) cable running from your solenoid to your starter runs dangerously close to the passenger side exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe. these are notorious for melting and grounding out in a manner similar to what you mentioned about your batery draining. The Negative (black) cable was another source of misery. The were typically originally grounded to the frame of the truck. The problem here is that if a mechanic or an owner was servicing the same area of the engine compartment as the negative cable ran, they would disconnect it, but when reconnecting, they would choose an alternate and easier access point should they ever need to remove it again. The chosen point was most always the engine or a bracket attached to the engine. The problem with this was that when they reconnected the cable, they did not tighten it down well enough to avoid it coming loose as the engine would shake and rattle as it ran down the road. The dirt and grease helps loosen this cable up very nicely also. If you recently did any work on your steering column, you may want to try readjusting your ignition switch located near the base of your steering column. These are well known problem makers on Ford trucks. You typically only need to readjust these though. And one last thought might be to look at your neutral safety switch located just above your brake pedal. I hope I have been able to help you out.

The relay is under a black plastic cover on the driver's side behind the battery. There are a couple other relays under there.-------I would start by jumping the AC relay to see if the clutch will run, you do this by removing the relay and putting a jumper wire between 30 and 87 terminals, if the clutch runs then check to see if there is power on the 85 terminal at the relay and a ground at terminal 86 if all are good replace the relay. The terminal numbers are located on the bottom of the relay, be sure that terminal 30 has power if the clutch does not run.
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Faulty compressor clutch relay. Check to see if the relay is receiving voltage when the A/C is turned on. Also check the relay wiring and ground connections. If bypassing the relay with a jumper wire or routing battery voltage directly to the compressor clutch makes the A/C work, the relay is probably bad.
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This will solve the problem or point you towards the cause of problem. Thank you for using fixya.

check that you have the firing order set from no 1 compression and that it is not 180 degrees out

Are you even aware of what that does? The only thing it does is open an air door under the dash that switches the air intake from outside air to inside air.

I don't see a question.

These modules are programmed to specific vehicles. You should use new only

If this is happening when you foot is off the throttle, try this........... First eliminate all vacuum or air leaks in the system (very important) . You may have a bad IAC ( idle air control) but try cleaning the throttle body first. Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the throttle wide open for you and scrub the back side of the throttle plate and surrounding bore with an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner. Be sure to spray some into the small holes next to the throttle plate. That should help stabilize the idle. If it still has a problem, replace the IAC.

The motor could be bad or one of the connectors is overheating and has too much resistance.

if your fuses are all ok then, it maybe the low pressure switch in your rec/dry'r tank saying there's not enough pressure in system to circulate (sorry some pressure doesn't count) , so hence it wont allow the compressor clutch to engage , these systems typically should have approx. greater than 20 psi in the rec/dryer tank (low pressure) and from 90 to 110 on the high side , also if one suspects the dash control being damaged , try it on defrost setting , as that makes compressor run as well

Have you checked your fluid lvl? Sounds like you might need to look towards the trans pump or torque converter.

AIR FILTER PLUGGED? INJECTORS DIRTY? POOR QUALITY DIESEL?

Ford sucks when it comes to fuses. They don't mark the panels. They put the locations and what they go to in the owners manual. You'll just have to turn it on and see what doesn't work. I buy all my electrical diagrams... Alldatadiy.com. If I had yours, I would post it.

Check oil level in gearbox.

antitheft module maybe