20 Most Recent 2000 Ford Expedition - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Cu?l es el fusible de la bocina o claxon de Expedition 1999

Buy a book for your truck it has fuse diagrams

The flasher unit on my 2000 Ford is located behind the dash and almost above the steering column.

Passenger side of the engine compartment by the firewall.

I believe it's a clutch driven fan with a temperature element in the clutch. I've had one go bad and it's a bit ot a pain to replace. You have to take off the fan shroud and disconnect the main radiator hoses to give yourself some space. The Haynes manual has a good description.

Underneath the car center under the rear seat floorboard. There's a little work involved. Only 3 bolts hold it in, but the wiring change-out is a pain.

It is behind center of instrument cluster just above the accel pedal in the blower/flasher relay block,it is actually a relay on this vehicle.

There are several. Three in the dash and one in the rear of car close to the evaporator. It depends on what problem that you are having to which blend door/actuator you are looking for. Is you problem that you are not switching the air from the floor to the vents and defrost or is it a problem with the air staying hot and not going to warmer or cool when you control the temperature control. Is the problem in the front or rear?

We just recently purchased a 2000 Expedition. It is wonderful shape but it has started making a ticking noise from under the hood , when you start it. Can anyone help us?

I'm a lifelong Technician, but I know situations and problems differ a lot sometimes. I've had this very issue. It was my transmission toasted that caused this issue, I bought a little time by adding a container full of brake fluid which causes the internal seals to expand and make things work better for a little while. But it's no fix, maybe yours isn't shot, but I'd try the brake fluid as it can't hurt. Mine was the same way, like it had a 4000-5000 RPM Stall Converter and didn't engage 1st Gear or move at all u til 4K-5K was reached. A week later I lost all forward gears and then had to drive home in reverse which thankfully wasn't far but far enough! It sounds like you've changed fluid since you've changed the solenoids in the pan, if you didn't change both the fluid/filter you could try that but I'm sure you did, be sure to drain and change the fluid in the torque converter too. CHECK OUT THE LINK IVE ATTACHED TO THIS MESSAGE AS IT HAS SOME VALUABKE TROUBLESHOOTING AND DIAGNOSTIC INDORMATION THAT WILL PROVE HELPFUL IN NARROWING THIS DOWN. READ IT AS THOROUGHLY AS POSSIBLE- IT MAY SAVE YOU A FEW $$$$$$!!! Did it have the good old "Burnt" smell when you drained ir have smelled the transmission fluid. Add some brake fluid or Lucas Transmission Treatment to see what you're working with. After I did so, it dropped right into gear at a normal idle speed like everything was perfect, I was changing It about a week or so later. Maybe you'll be luckier than I was- but I appreciate honesty and thought you would too. I'd start looking for a good used transmission or someone to build one. There's an add on the Greensboro, NC craigslist for a guy that builds bullet proof/upgraded transmissions guaranteed not to fail for about $849. Even if that's not close by, it may be worth looking into or finding a similar situation closer. Shipping is pretty cheap these days, it may be a great solution. If this helped any any please let me know by clicking the icon to say this was helpful, feel free to leave a quick review or follow me as I primarily deal with auto/technical/mechanical subjects and may be helpful again. Thanks again and have a great day!

Bad sprag one way drive clutch is bad no trainsmisson shop will tell you that an charge for a rebuild ur welcome guys don't believe me jack the back tires off the ground put the truck in drive I bet the tires spin an tyranny will shift fine drop the back back down won't move my 2005 5.4 2wd it done the same thing

Code P1746 reads as:- Pressure Control Solenoid "A" Open Circuit. this is the valve that controls the pressure of transmission fluid to the clutch mechanism. There is a problem with the wiring to it or the solenoid itself is faulty. If this pressure isn't kept right it could eventually damage the clutch system. (Very expensive repair)! Get a good auto-electrician to look at it. It might just be a loose or dirty wire rather than a faulty clutch.

You should go to www.reliable-store.com they have got books on every vehicle and also how to service/repair it, service/repair/owner's/maintenance manual with parts info, fuse box, gear box, torque specs,coiling, wiring diagrams, electrical diagrams, fuse diagrams, error codes, etc everything Worth it

vacuum leak or blocked filter is more likely the problem, idle is controlled by the vacuum. if its losing vacuum it will not hold the valve open to let air flow though. look for cracked or split vacuum lines. can even be a damaged diaphragm, not holding.

Likely bad ground. Also check battery voltage when headlights are on. Most stereos shuts off when battery level drops bellow certain value

Inspection and Verification

1. The power windows system is a generic electronic module (GEM) controlled system.

1. Verify the customer concern by operating the power window system.

1. Visually inspect for obvious signs of mechanical and electrical damage; refer to the following chart:

Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical

• Window regulator electric drive
• Window glass
• Vent window motor

• Central junction box (CJB) Fuse:
  • 6 (5A)
  • 8 (5A)
  • 15 (5A)
  • 17 (10A)
  • 18 (5A)
  • 20 (5A)
• Battery junction box (BJB) Fuse:
  • 103 (50A)
  • 110 (30A)
  • 116 (40A)
  • 601 (30A)
• Relay(s)
• Window regulator control switch
• Window regulator electric drive
• Vent window switch
• Vent window motor
• Heated mirror
• Heat grid switch
• Heat backlite grid
• CJB
• GEM
• Circuitry
• Wiring harness
• Loose or corroded connector(s)

1. If the concern remains after the inspection connect the scan tool to the data link connector (DLC) located beneath the instrument panel and select the vehicle to be tested from the scan tool menu. If the scan tool does not communicate with the vehicle:
   • check that the program card is correctly installed.
   • check the connections to the vehicle.
   • check the ignition switch position.

1. If the scan tool still does not communicate with the vehicle, refer to the scan tool manual.

1. Carry out the DATA LINK DIAGNOSTIC TEST. If the scan tool responds with:
   • CKT 914, CKT 915 or CKT 70 = ALL ECUS NO RESP/NOT EQUIP, refer to Section 418-00 .
   • NO RESP/NOT EQUIP for the GEM, Go To Pinpoint Test A .
   • SYSTEM PASSED, retrieve and record the continuous diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs), erase the continuous DTCs and carry out self-test diagnostics for the GEM.

1. If the DTCs retrieved are related to the concern, go to the GEM Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index to continue diagnostics.

1. If no DTCs related to the concern are retrieved, GO to Symptom Chart to continue diagnostics. The odds of this being a fuse are 0 your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop .

you've shorted something out my friend best take into the shop for repair, should only cost $20 with parts.

https://s13.postimg.org/4nlcahpxz/hi_beam.jpg Click on the link. Check the fuse, if you haven't already. Also, with headlamp switch on check the fuse circuit for voltage. Use a test light. Both hi beams get voltage from the same fuse as you can see in diagram.