Top 20 2002 Volkswagen Golf Questions & Answers

2.0L liter? must be MARK IV in UK???? petrol right? not 2.0 TDIours is USA only 1.8L I4, here. +2.5 and 2.8or 1.8L is belted cams.In UK the belt is 120km /5year rated. at VWthe manual said for p0322 , the 2 sensors read wrongthat means it is out of time.and fully normal this old. ignored for 20years, 2002 to 2023?if the cam belt is bad1000 new cam and crank sensors will never ever fix the car.see?with a water pump too see how it runs off the same cam belt>do the full kit.see this for fast example, and real, belt, I'd buy gates belts.or DAyco.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK4-2-0-GTi-8V-TIMING-CAM-BELT-KIT-WATER-PUMP-TENSIONER-NEW-/271021267537

There are several possible reasons why the turbo on your 2002 Golf TDI might not be engaging:

1. Boost pressure issue: The most common cause of a non-engaging turbo is a boost pressure issue. This can be caused by a leak in the intake system, a damaged turbocharger, or a clogged air filter.
2. Malfunctioning wastegate: The wastegate is a component that controls the amount of exhaust gas that flows through the turbocharger. If the wastegate is malfunctioning, it may not allow the turbo to engage properly.
3. Faulty turbocharger control solenoid: The turbocharger control solenoid is responsible for regulating the amount of pressure that goes to the turbocharger. If the solenoid is faulty, it may not be able to control the pressure properly, leading to a non-engaging turbo.
4. Electrical issue: There may be an issue with the electrical components of the turbo system, such as a faulty wiring harness, sensor or control module.

To diagnose the problem, you can check for any visible leaks in the intake system or damage to the turbocharger. You can also check the wastegate for proper function and inspect the turbocharger control solenoid for any signs of damage or failure. If you are unsure how to perform these checks, it is recommended to take your vehicle to a qualified mechanic for a proper diagnosis and repair.

Question edited with a GUESS at the make and model. Question moved to the guessed make and model category. All questions need 'year make model'. You need a good man with a scan tool. Transmission Position Sensor is my guess. It is a known issue. https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+Golf+not+engaging+3rd+and+4th+gear ..

Try replacing the sensor. They are not usually very expensive. When the engine is COLD! Remove the wire to the sensor and unscrew it. A deep socket will be easiest. The hole will only leak a small amount of oil. Wipe the excess oil out of the hole and fit the new sensor. Turn it until it is tight but DON'T force it. Reconnect the wire and clean away any spilt oil.

Check your distributor timing.

Hi.it sound a lot like a ignition coil coils tend to do that if its got a crack it Swell when the temperature rises

OK.!

May just be the serpentine belt instead of the timing belt

The door lock solenoid for the passenger side is possibly defective, and that is what caused the fuse to blow in the first place. If you apply voltage to the solenoid and it works, then the driver transistor or wiring would be the next place to check. Hope this helps.

Check the coolant sensors. One sensor, when coolant is overheated, cuts the ac off, this sensor may be stuck electrically open, only two wires going to it. Other sensor has four wires, two for temp gage and two for engine management.

It is very possible the culprit is the radiator cap.

Try cleaning the throttle valve and the idle speed control valve. Use CRC brand spray throttle valve cleaner, about half the car will do it. Spray it into the engine intake while it running hold the idle up or it will stall out. After you have done this the idle problems should improve.

Do an exhaust pipe check on the car. It will tell you if the air is flowing through the cat and the muffler. If they are the fuel can't be pulled into the cylinder to fire the engine. Not sure the computer would keep it from starting as I am not a VW guy. As a quick check put your hand over the end of the exhaust and see if the pressure is strong or weak coming out. put gloves on so you don't get burnt from the exhaust. If it don't start at all currently remove the o2 sensor ahead of the cat and see if it starts, it will run rough but should start. Hope this helps.

This problem is usually caused by a intake Vacuum leak ,Check the hard tube coming out of the brake booster for cracks. MAFs are known to fail on them.

get a replacement from the wreckers and do it yourself cheap and nasty but it could cost more in the long run if the car is in good condition, runs well and is reliable then a new one one would be money well spent regardless of the car cost as you may have got it cheap

You need to have a scan of the engine done There are a number of problems that could cause those symptoms. Ask your repair shop how much they charge for the scan Our shop does them free, some shops charge. Get a copy of the scan results and have them clear the codes. Than ask for quotes on the repairs.

Be sure you have all the wires connected on the battery. The positive terminal may have a slip on connected wire to the terminal and others that fit under the bolt that tightens the battery terminal. If that is not it then verify the hoses that are routed in that area have not come off. Hope you find the issue.

If this is a stick shift you have a worn out clutch. If it is an automatic, then it may just be low on fluid or the torque convertor may have gone bad or the friction material inside the transmission is just worn out. Either way it is not a cheap repair.

it is in the air intake boot from the air filter housing to the tb it has a two wire connector going to it.