20 Most Recent 2000 Volkswagen Golf - Page 8 Questions & Answers

ita a common fault, some peole take the motor out of the car and strip it down, clean it and lube it back up and then put back in car, then some people say while its out just replace it, if your handy with the spanners then clean it and put back if not just replace it

try disconecting the battery completely for about 30 minutes you may get lucky and not have blown the computer. You may also want to change the fuses anyways , sometimes they look good but are still bad.

Never be tempted to install anything other than the engine code originally installed in you car.

You will run in to all sorts of problems..wire connectors...sensors...mounting bolt holes and ECU compatibility to name a few.

There are no external hoses or lines you can tap into. These transmission as supposed to be filled for life...really !

You should drain and fill every 30,000 miles or 50,00km.

Best bet is a VW dealer but the fluid is very expensive and it must be the fluid VW recommends....it is not Dexron IIIe ATF..

You need a scanner to check for transmission temperature when you refill as VW specifies a certain temperature for the level to be correct.

Any good quality brand synthetic . 5W20..5W30 or similar.

Shell Rotella 5W40 is about as good as it gets. Always use a OE VW oil filter....buy 4 or 6 and keep the others for next time along with oil drain washers.

VW has recommendations in the handbook if you still have it.

If this is the turbo engine....Engine takes 3.7 quarts, so you need to change it often as you can afford...about every 5000 to 7000 miles.

You could apply the 'Smoke Test" .... but that will only show you 'where' the short is located.!

...but seriously...you need a electrical tech' or at least a tech' who knows your vehicle.

You have a dead short in the BATT+ wire from the fuse block to one of those items you mentioned or to a component also supplied with power from that fuse.

The convertible top is prime suspect as wires get jammed under the back seat.

Do not install a heavier rated fuse. You could start a fire. Seek professional help.

I HAVE THE EXACT PROBLEM!!! OK.. SO FINALLY AFTER A MONTH OF TRIAL AN ERROR.. I REPLACED THE COOLANT TEMP. SENSOR AND SERIOUSLY.. ALLLLL THE PROBLEMS WENT AWAY AND MY SYMPTOMS WERE IDENTICAL TO ALL 3 OF THE PEOPLE REPORTING THIS SAME PROB. ITS A $7.00 PART SO GRAB IT AND CHANGE IT.. IT IS VERY EASY TO SWITCH OUT AND I BET YOUR CAR RUNS AWESOME AGAIN :) GOODLUCK!! -MANDEY

this case .you have to check compresion of all piston first then compair it before you go out to ignition coil . exhaust and intake valve have lose compresion may be in piston 3 . check spark plug No.3 have oil or not complete burn . make sure compresion is ok then check igniton coil .and injector if same modle . but i don't think exhaust have eny problem and if there is it will be for all misfiring not only No.3 check some time comes when lose vacum .

i'll answer based on the importance of the problem:1. oil light.make sure that your oil level is correct. you can check it by removing your dip stick.2. air is not working.it means you have a rich mixture (meaning your engine does not have the correct air/fuel ratio). most common cause of this problem is very dirty/very old air filter. if the air filter seems ok, have your fuel injectors and air vaccuums cleaned.3. misfires.to check if your high tension wire(htw) is working, detach the suspected wire from the spark plug (detach the end connected to the plug only). turn on your engine. slowly move the detached wire towards the head (cylinder head) and see if there will be sparks. if there are sparks, then spark plugs is your problem

look at your swayarm in rear see if its bent or bushings are gone also look at the choks see if one is broke

hi.
if you are willing to spend enough time and money, then almost any engine can be custom fitted in to any car. 3.5l rover V8 into an original mini is a particularly good example.
changing engines like this is a very involved and expensive process. the electrics would almost certainly need modifying for the engine management systems and the security and alarm systems as they are all linked, the engine and gearbox mountings would have to be altered, as would the driveshafts. unless you keep the original gearbox, in which case an adapter plate would have to be made for the mounting and the clutch. to handle the extra power, the brakes and suspension should be uprated as well. depending on where you live, and how much you alter, you may find that the car has to have an independent inspection of all the work before you could insure it, and the insurance would be affected as well as the car will be modified. it is possible, but you do need to ask yourself if it is worth doing. get in touch with a couple of custom car garages and ask about feasability and price estimates. there are normally a few advertising in custom car magazines. they will give you a far better idea of what is actually involved. hope this helps

only 100 psi ,should be around the 200 mark ,i suspect that you could be low on gas ,forget these cans from supermarket and have it checked out with the correct machinery ,have it emptied out and vacumned up then reiflled to the correct weight of gas for this vehicle which i think should be 750 grms R134 then test for pressure and i have a funny feeling it will work correctly ,

firstly i think you have overcharged the Ac system as the most it should hold is 650 grms for this system on this model ,if too much gas it will click in and out and slow the engine down ,as for the gauge readings then renew the sensor its on the housing at the front in the plastic housing ,depending on year and model this is where most are ,but some later models have a sensor at the back of the head left side from front