1991 Pontiac Grand Am - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

To remove the bolt with the rounded head I would try cutting a slot in the top of the bolt head. Cut the slot to fit the largest straight tip screwdriver that you can find. then use a pair of pliers or vise grips to grip the shaft of the screwdriver to put more torque on the screwdriver (it helps if the screwdriver has a square shaft. If you think that the bolt is too seized into the engine block to try that, another thing to try is to weld another bolt to the head of the original bolt, (I would use a wire feed welder) so that you have an undamaged bolt head to use a wrench on (preferably a strong socket wrench). If you do weld another bolt onto the original bolt, make sure that you let the bolt cool down completely because when you get the bolt hot, it will expand and will not break loose until it has cooled. Have a fire extinguisher handy and good luck. Hope this helps.

need to know what it does when you turn it over does it at all make a sound what? need info do the gauges moves if there are gauges, does interior lights come on is there power at all, does it click, are the battery cables securly tight, is it in park try taking out of park, then putting it back in park, need details.

The casing is not solid, but has 2 shear bolts that have to be drilled out of backed off with chisel and hammer, ccw.

The casing for the lock cylinder is not solid and it has to be 2 pieces in order to fit around the steering column. But the reason you can't see that it has two pieces is because they are held together by bolts that are designed to have their heads shear off after they are tight. You have to drill out the shear bolts or back them out with a hammer and chisel to turn them CCW.

I'm pretty sure a quick call to your local Buick dealer parts man will get the answer. He'll have the parts database to hand. It looks like you know the answer already?

Assuming you gapped the spark plugs correctly, and got the correct wires from the distributor cap to the correct spark plug (believe me, this is a common error people make) it sounds as if it has "jumped time." If you don't have one, get a Chilton/Haynes manual for this car. The troubleshooting section will give you, in descending order, most likely cause of your difficulty. Another idea, is that your distributor has lost the crank shaft pin. But I'd look to the distributor to plug wires first. ( My father-in-law, who has rebuilt many engines, made this simple error on a 4 cyl Ford. Didn't realize it till I showed him the diagram in the repair manual.)

Sounds like you need new spark plugs and wires also a throttle body cleaning.

Make sure that the idle motor is working.When you start it should run about 1200 rpm for a few seconds then go down to 600 rpm If not it may need cleaned or replaced.

Sounds like you have an air to fuel mixture problem, have you put a scan tool on it, being a gm i suspect it may be the mass air flow sensor/map. Pull the codes to see why you are dumping fuel

Usually the cause to this would be either bad spark plugs, bad spark plug wires or if they are new then it could be as simple as a vacuum leak but it is an older car and valve clearances might be off, valves could be clotted with carbon, not allowing the to open or close properly.

try replacing fuel pump relay in fuse box , also turn key forward till dash lights come on with out starting it see if u hear fuel pump , if not most likely fuel pump when out

adjust belt as needed

You have 3 coils located on top of the ignition module with 2 spark plug wires to each. Usually on that vehicle only one coil dies at once. But if you have no spark at all the ignition module would be the usual problem. There are a couple other unlikely things that can also cause this problem but it will require a repair shop to diagnosis them.

well get a heavy duty rachet like a craftsman get the right socket and maybe one or 2 extentions or none if you dont need them then get a cheater bar and use it on the ratchet my cheater bar is a metal pipe

commonly the drain plug of a transmission is in the lower part of transmission.

2.3L Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Detach the oxygen sensor connector.
3. Properly drain the engine coolant into a suitable container. Remove the heater hose from the thermostat housing for more complete coolant drain.
4. Remove upper and lower exhaust manifold heat shields.
5. Remove the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold.
6. Break loose the manifold to exhaust pipe spring loaded bolts using a 13mm box wrench.
7. Raise and safely support the vehicle. NOTE: It is necessary to relieve the spring pressure from 1 bolt prior to removing the second bolt. If the spring pressure is not relieved, it will cause the exhaust pipe to twist and bind up the bolt as it is removed.
8. Remove the manifold to exhaust pipe bolts from the exhaust pipe flange as follows:
   1. Unscrew either bolt clockwise 4 turns.
   2. Remove the other bolt.
   3. Remove the first bolt.
9. Pull down and back on the exhaust pipe to disengage it from the exhaust manifold bolts.
10. Remove the radiator outlet pipe from the oil pan and transaxle. If equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the exhaust manifold brace. Leave the lower radiator hose attached and pull down on the outlet pipe to remove it from the water pump.
11. Carefully lower the vehicle.
12. Remove the exhaust manifold, seals and gaskets.
13. Loosen and reposition the rear engine mount and bracket for clearance, as required.
14. Remove the water pump mounting bolts and nuts. Remove the water pump and cover assembly, then separate the two pieces.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Yes there is a horn relay and it is mounted in the relay block

OK START WITH COLD CAR FIND HEATER HOSES (CENTER REAR OF ENG BAY) PINCH OFF HEATER HOSES WITH NIDDLE NOSE VICE GRIPS, REMOVE HEATER HOSE'S FROM HEATER CORE TUBES ( BOTH HOSES) INSTALL WATER HOSE TO ONE SIDE OF HEATER CORE , TURN WATTER ON AND LET IT FLOW 1 MIN. SHOULD DOO THE JOB, IF NOT YOU HAVE OTHER ISSUES.OH REASIMBLE EVERY THING BACK AS IT WAS BEFORE YOU STARTED, TAKE CARE WHEN REMOVING HEATER HOSES FROM HEATER CORE MAY BREAK HEATER CORE IF YOU ARE TOO RUFF,.......

OK START WITH COLD CAR FIND HEATER HOSES (CENTER REAR OF ENG BAY) PINCH OFF HEATER HOSES WITH NIDDLE NOSE VICE GRIPS, REMOVE HEATER HOSE'S FROM HEATER CORE TUBES ( BOTH HOSES) INSTALL WATER HOSE TO ONE SIDE OF HEATER CORE , TURN WATTER ON AND LET IT FLOW 1 MIN. SHOULD DOO THE JOB, IF NOT YOU HAVE OTHER ISSUES.OH REASIMBLE EVERY THING BACK AS IT WAS BEFORE YOU STARTED, TAKE CARE WHEN REMOVING HEATER HOSES FROM HEATER CORE MAY BREAK HEATER CORE IF YOU ARE TOO RUFF,.......

check the fuel filter for glogging up. and pressure test the fuel pump to see if fuel is reaching engine ok. it could be a failing fuel pump. but if a pump really goes engine quits as well as the fuel pump.after getting things checked out. you may want to clean out throttle body, especially around throttle plate. and make sure air filter is clean, and the plugs are ok.